This Kerry Womans Solo Camino Cycle from León to Santiago de Compostela 2015

Today was the flattest section of the French Way that I Cycled.

What a feeling! My first time on this type of bike also as it's primarily a racer I use, but I must now try save for one of these bikes - super fun!
Didn't see much of León after arriving at my accommodation at 10pm ; got my bike all set-up first before getting my panniers arranged ; pack my main luggage for transfer ; relax my mind before the Journey that I was about to embark on,

Thought my first challenge would be cycling on the other side of the road to what I am used to in Ireland ; now cycling on the other side of the road, maneuvering the traffic-lights, crossings, junctions, roundabouts etc, but it was actually getting myself out of León. Luckily a few others were setting off at same time so I hooked up behind them and played the pied-piper out of the City.

Only 298km left until this Kerry woman reaches Santiago de Compostela.
The Yellow Arrow, one continuous symbol that Guides You

I opted to stay on the main road today as wanted a nice start to my Journey. This personal journey, my personal Camino was more than needed, now that I think about it looking back. Don't know if it's just me or other cyclists, but whenever I put on my cycling gear and get on a bike I just feel more confident; feel more assertive; just feel more in control of My Way.

Met up & Saw a few other cyclists on this route but far far more walkers.
A few cyclists en route on Day#1 & Groups of Walkers arriving into Astorga


Astorga was Simply Beautiful. Just look at the image below that welcomed me into the town. Stage#1 certainly received a thumbs up from this Kerry Woman anyways. Just a Lovely Start for me

Welcoming Scallop Shell in Astorga

Started my cycling today with three Spaniards Ismael, Carlos & Jezus as we made our way out of Ponferrada.
My Three Amigos

These guys were just super fun. We met a few times throughout my Camino actually and always a smile and good humour! This photo was actually taken at Alto de Poyo where we met the second time. They couldn't find accommodation in OCebreiro so had to continue climbing to there before resting for the night!
Today started as a Lovely route across the Valley of El Bierzo in the province of Castilla y León. Had the mountains surrounding for most of the days cycle, before reaching the red earth wine making region where I cycled the main Pilgrim path through the vineyards. Just Amazing sites. You wouldn't feel the continuous hills with the scenery around you.
Entered VillaFranca del Bierzo then where I came across this Piece of Art sitting on the main bridge out of the town
This is the Way - follow the direction of the Staff Walking Stick


Once leaving this lively town I climbed some more through the slender valley of the river Valcace before tackling the committing incline of O Cebreiro, between the mountain ranges of Os Ancares and Serra do Courel.

The main Pilgrim Path

On the main road at one point were two markings and I should've stayed on the main road as this Pilgrim Path was a nightmare to cycle so did walk a bit here. Also met some lovely pilgrim walkers incl Yoko from Japan who started her Camino in St.Jean Piet de Port. Just unreal dedication. I rejoined the main road the moment I got the chance. It was a near desserted road ; just straight up ; no one to ask for help if help was needed and no-where to pull over and catch your breath. You just keep peddling onwards and upwards.

O Cebreiro though just stole my heart. It is a unique village set high in the Cantabrian Mountains with only about a dozen houses. In one of the shops I was buying some gifts for family & also my local bike mechanic asked for a postcard which I bought here. The owner asked if I needed a stamp & where to. Once I said Irlande, his son handed me this pin with the Camino Symbol and the Irish Flag. Just filled up with emotion. Such Kindness, such un-expected Warmth that made my days up, up, up & up some more climbing seem like nothing, no pain to be had at this point.

On my backpack: Camino Shell, Cyclist Pin and my Beautiful Thoughtful Gift.

Todays Cycling mixed between the main road over the Camino route and up through the woodlands on the main Pilgrim trail.

Today was another dense foggy day when I started. Saw little to no-one in the villages I cycled through, almost deserted. It was getting quite nervy for me it was so quiet even in terms of fellow pilgrims. There were long stretches with nowhere to rest and quite a number of long tense ascents.

Belesar Dam


Whatever way I looked back at one point I saw another cyclist on the road. He stayed with me from behind and we kept each other company then until we reached Portomartin route that crossed the Belesar Dam. This town was actually moved, stone by stone, to escape flooding when the reservoir was constructed.


Luis had cycled from St.Jean Piet de Port in France and was completing his Camino that day whilst I was stopping in Melide and finished in Santiago the following day. He was a breath of fresh-air for me that morning, Once here at the dam the routes got busy again with pilgrims but his company en route here was prefect for me.

Today was physically tough, but also rewarding in that I found a Peaceful Church in Palas de Rei. This was just such a humble little town.
What surprised me, really started today, was the reaction by those I met when they found out a female Solo Cyclist was cycling from León to Santiago de Compostela, and even more surprised to hear Irlande. I just felt proud each & every time I said it.
Although I was cycling my Journey Solo, I was never really alone for long. Always met up with others like Luis (French) above;

Fernando (Portuguese)

& also Fernando from Burgos

who I completed this stage with as we headed to the 58km to Santiago marker

look, said the Boardsie, only 58km to Santiago.


When in the church in Palas de Rei, which I seemed to reach in record time after the continuous uphills & downhills ; just felt proud writing my name, writing Ireland, writing León on the book in-front of the Pastor before he Kindly stamped my Pilgrim Passport. Such a feeling taking 5mins inside to drop my shoulders, reflect and say a few prayers

St. James Way stamp inside
Rvdo. Manuel Failde Cortizo

This Reverend copied over from the book all the Pilgrims' names who signed-in, onto a sheet to pray for and make reference to in a homily in the days to come.

My bike on our Final Morning
Looked like our National Park at home

Fellow Pilgrims
Even the Family Dog brings his own backpack with his treats for his Camino
Wonderful Rendition of Hotel California on arrival

Serious work done by the Locals




Signs & Symbols common en route: This is The Way




Some Divine Inspiration was Needed One Morning


Me Just passing some time in the Morning Light

The Black Oil wrote: »

Just reading about that abduction you linked to - very sad.

I see that you arranged luggage transfers daily and had pre-booked your accommodation. Apart from that, did you put much planning into this or have an idea of what was coming up each day?

Had no choice but to plan, plan, plan. To be honest someone might see what I'd planned as excessive but when I was cycling solo; I didn't know anyone in the country; had basic Spanish going over - Lookit, I felt I needed to put extra planning in.
~ Planned right down to the villages/towns I would be either passing through or near: Knowing where the nearest station was ; nearest shop for anything etc etc and having their numbers wrote down in event I didn't have signal.

~ Having pre-booked my accommodation meant I had a guaranteed planned distance giving me re-assurance. I studied the routes in terms of road-layouts and possibilities. You'd want a certain level of street-smarts for a Journey like this. You'd want your head screwed on and you can't really tune out once you start your days cycle. Cycling on the other side of the road and having the head tuned in for everything coming toward you from sides not familiar to us here in Ireland. Roundabouts were fun though, especially with upto three-lanes and vehicles merging around you

~ Aside from having my mobile ; I had my garmin ; I had my power-bank(s) fully charged daily before setting off ; had two mobiles kept separate, charged & with credit.
Had the route-marked on paper also and always tried to know what section of what route/road I was on. In event of needing assistance, felt it important, with my basic Spanish if I could pin myself down to a section on a route, especially in terms of something distinguishable in my surroundings, then who-ever would've been on the receiving end would know from the voice assistance was needed and I'd have done what I could to make it easier to be located.

Just tried to think outside the box in terms of: Okay, how would I be found. How if I got a call through, how would they know where I was. Telling someone you're on x -road is no help.
Actually where that poor crater was last seen ; on that stretch it was quite dangerous. No dwelling within site if you had time to escape ; long stretches with no-one on the pilgrim trail therefore less chance of getting help sooner rather than later ; there were dykes separating the road from the pilgrim trail so I stayed on the main pilgrim trail when I could have more opportunity to meet others with same goal as me ; huge, and I mean huge dense forests. I actually found myself thinking cycling on that section: If I got pulled into that forest then I would never be found again

I didn't take on too much cycling daily. When on a bike like that with panniers, it's not conducive for speed if speed were needed. Therefore you'd need to have energy stored at all times.
You'd try and spend some time cycling with others and you'd pass the miles in company, but seriously long stretches of alone-time, on quiet roads listening to the birds.
It certainly was a cycling adventure.

At the end of the day though, plenty of opportunities for anyone who wanted to strike! Plenty of long stretches of testing road. Plenty of rolling hills, constant climbing draining energy as you pedal.

I don't know. Think I researched too much. Think I may have heard too many negative stories, even from people on same routes as me when we reached our towns daily. You're always thinking 'what if'. Then factor in the weather conditions, especially the heavy fog and the gradient descents I was cycling on. Sur anything could've happened. Then thinking hundreds cycle this yearly & while stories have been shared with you, you really do need to take some with a pinch of salt tbh.

The locals I met though were truly lovely. The final day though when getting closer to Santiago the hooting and the waving and the salutes by the locals knowing the Journey I was on just made those nervy tense moments seem ever so distant.
You can't really drop your guard though. You can't really kick back & enjoy it too much, especially knowing it could all turn in moments!
You just do any & everything to keep your mind focused.
You just do what you can really.
At the end of the day though, I think luck plays it's part too.

Before I left I found some local roads here with traffic pelting past and thinking if only this were quieter.
Now that I am back after cycling in some of the quietest areas ever, I am glad for the familiar ; glad for the passing traffic.
Though cycling here too though, luck also plays it part at times in getting you to your destination safe and sound

Hope that answers your question,
kerry4sam

The Black Oil wrote: »

The thread is a credit to you, thanks.

There are still times now that I look at my photos, to, you know, remind myself that I did actually manage to get my ass, that bike & panniers up: 1*Category 1 ; 1* Category 2 ; 1* Category 3 ; 1* Category 4 and 4* Category 5 climbs ( see here and/or here for how they are categorised) whilst Cycling Solo. Surreal but it just goes to prove the Power of the Mind. A strong mind can carry you miles and climbing mountains

Thank You for your kind words,
kerry4sam