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2005 Nissan Micra (k12) starting issue - video inside

  • 03-06-2014 10:01pm
    #1
    Col200sx
    Registered Users Posts: 1,728 ✭✭✭


    Herself tried to start her 1.0 petrol Micra and it wouldn't fire up at all.

    As you can see from the video, the light on bottom right above the oil light, the flashing light for the key, stays on when I try to start it.

    But having access to another Micra, I know this light goes out after a second.

    Coincidentally, when I do put the key in the ignition, the rad fan starts up. And when I tried to hook up my OBDII scanner, it wouldn't scan it saying "link error".

    Has anybody any idea what it is? Immobiliser? Not recognising key?

    Video:

    http://youtu.be/pHnxROGxXjA
    Tagged:


Comments

  • #2
    punisher5112
    Registered Users Posts: 24,647 ✭✭✭✭punisher5112


    How good is the battery.
    Sometimes the radio drains the battery and is it doing very short runs.

    Have you tried both keys as if it's the spare sometimes the code is lost from little use.

    Quite possible the immobiliser has kicked in not recognising key.

    Not like the old Micra you would usually find it has flooded itself so take petrol fuse out start and off then replace fuse to board.


  • #3
    Scoobydoo 2
    Closed Accounts Posts: 68 ✭✭Scoobydoo 2


    also when you tried to start it it was a very short burst was that you or did it stop cranking after a few seconds
    I ask as I think this is an indication the nissan anti theft system ( Nats ) has kicked in it only cranks for a couple of seconds and then wont try again
    As suggested have you tried the spare key


  • #4
    jca
    Closed Accounts Posts: 8,585 ✭✭✭jca


    Key is corrupted have you got a spare?


  • #5
    alias no.9
    Registered Users Posts: 6,263 ✭✭✭alias no.9


    My wife's old k12 had the microswitch in the ignition barrel fail on the morning of her driving test. It's not uncommon and there was a recall in the UK.


  • #6
    Col200sx
    Registered Users Posts: 1,728 ✭✭✭Col200sx


    That's the only key we have.

    I cranked it as much as it would. It cuts itself out, it wasn't me stopping it.

    Made sure all the electrics were off when starting. Also tried to start it with jump leads and still the same.

    It does both short and medium runs. It was sitting up for a while before she got it so battery could be better.


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  • #7
    punisher5112
    Registered Users Posts: 24,647 ✭✭✭✭punisher5112


    Col200sx wrote: »
    That's the only key we have.

    I cranked it as much as it would. It cuts itself out, it wasn't me stopping it.

    Made sure all the electrics were off when starting. Also tried to start it with jump leads and still the same.


    Did the car battery go dead before trying to start?

    The code has been lost by looks of it.


  • #8
    Col200sx
    Registered Users Posts: 1,728 ✭✭✭Col200sx


    punisher5112 wrote: »
    Did the car battery go dead before trying to start?

    The code has been lost by looks of it.

    No battery wasn't dead. Other electrics worked otherwise.


  • #9
    Scoobydoo 2
    Closed Accounts Posts: 68 ✭✭Scoobydoo 2


    If you get out and lock the doors then back in and try again does it give the same short burst and then will not try again until its locked and unlocked
    if so I read that this is an indication that the anti theft ( immobilizer ) has kicked in
    From another forum
    sounds same

    Hello did anyone ever get to the bottom of this issue.

    I had a similar problem, the engine started running badly, AA came out and read fault codes, P0300+ so diagnosed as faulty coil pack.

    To identify which I unplugged each in turn, expecting rough running to worsen if a working coil pack was unplugged.

    From the left, the first 2 didn't make any difference to the running, the other 2 did.

    I was suspicious that 2 had gone as I hadn't previously had a MIL light lit.

    I was told it was OK to drive home for a couple of miles, it wasn't, it broke down completely and won't start and the rad fan runs at speed and the security/ immobiliser light is lit.

    It only cranks the once, then cuts out. if you try again you get nothing. If you lock and unlock the car you get 1 crank the first time you try then nothing after that.

    Also, if you try to read the codes now on the OBD socket you get a "link failed" error on my and the AA's code reader.

    The car is at the garage now but rather than clock up diagnostic fee's I thought I'd start here.

    If anyone has any ideas where to start please let me know. I already disconnected the battery overnight, no change.

    FYI the car has recently had a new gearbox (don't think it's relevant but thought I'd mention it as they could have disconnected / damaged something

    Thanks.


  • #10
    Col200sx
    Registered Users Posts: 1,728 ✭✭✭Col200sx


    Scoobydoo 2 wrote: »
    If you get out and lock the doors then back in and try again does it give the same short burst and then will not try again until its locked and unlocked
    if so I read that this is an indication that the anti theft ( immobilizer ) has kicked in

    Not sure. It's not here for me to check.

    But most times it gives the same consistent short burst when I try.

    A couple of times nothing happened too though as you can see in the second past of the video.


  • #11
    Col200sx
    Registered Users Posts: 1,728 ✭✭✭Col200sx


    To follow up on this, seems the issue is what alias no.9 had said above:
    alias no.9 wrote: »
    My wife's old k12 had the microswitch in the ignition barrel fail on the morning of her driving test. It's not uncommon and there was a recall in the UK.

    So there was no power getting through the ignition, because of a switch fault. So one new ignition barrel later and it's sorted.

    (For the record another family member had the same issue happen on a same year Almera, ignition barrel fail too, could must be a weak link).


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