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Sticking brake caliper - '04 Nissan Almera

  • 09-07-2015 9:42am
    #1
    Chemical Byrne
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 1,311 ✭✭✭


    Hi,

    I have a 04 Almera, 1.5 L petrol saloon.
    The front passenger side brake seems to be binding. When coasting the car comes to a stop as if you had the brake lightly on. The wheel and hub are hot when you feel it after a drive. Brake definitely sticking.

    I took the wheel off to have a look and I used a g-clamp to push the piston back in and basically "work" the caliper in case the pins were seized. When the piston is pushed back the caliper slides back and forth on the pins like a breeze, no bother at all. So they are not seized.

    I then repeatedly pressed the brake and pushed back the piston with the G-clamp again maybe for 4 or 5 times to work out any sticking in the piston. I thought that would solve it. No such luck. The brake is still dragging.

    Anyone experience this before? Do I need a complete new caliper or should I just dismantle my own one, clean it up and reassemble?

    Is there some particular reason why the piston is jamming? Is there a return spring that might be weak/broke?


Comments

  • #2
    JoeySully
    Registered Users Posts: 1,276 ✭✭✭JoeySully


    Return spring? Most brake calipers use the small square seal around the piston to pull the piston back. When the brake is pressed the square seal is twisted outwards, when the brake is released the rubber seal pulls the piston back in. If the seal becomes rounded then its not going to pull the piston back in. This may not be true however for pistons with slide pins!

    From what I have read the glide / slide pins on almera calipers can get a bit sticky. I would take them apart, clean, grease and re-assemble first


  • #3
    Interslice
    Registered Users Posts: 3,506 ✭✭✭Interslice


    You could fet a replacement caliper from a breakers or a refurbed one from a motor factor. Refurbing them yourself is a pain. Check first though that it isn't the pads sticking in the carrier. Dirt and rust builds up where the wings of the pads slide in and out.


  • #4
    Chemical Byrne
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 1,311 ✭✭✭Chemical Byrne


    I might see if the local motor factor has one in stock. Then I can try dismantle & clean up my own and resort to the new one if things go pear shaped.


  • #5
    Interslice
    Registered Users Posts: 3,506 ✭✭✭Interslice


    Chemical Byrne wrote: »
    I might see if the local motor factor has one in stock. Then I can try dismantle & clean up my own and resort to the new one if things go pear shaped.


    They'd have to order them in. Normally 120-150 euro for one. Do it yourself if you've time to kill but get but get new seals if your going through the effort. 20/30 quid or so for the square seal and dust seal.


  • #6
    Chemical Byrne
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 1,311 ✭✭✭Chemical Byrne


    Before I go at it are there any specialist tools required or will just the usual stuff be adequate?


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  • #7
    Interslice
    Registered Users Posts: 3,506 ✭✭✭Interslice


    Chemical Byrne wrote: »
    Before I go at it are there any specialist tools required or will just the usual stuff be adequate?

    A wind back tool would be handy. The piston has to go back in real square on or it just gets stuck. Also an air line to pop the piston. You can pop it on the car using the brake pedal but it can be messy and makes it more awkward to bleed. You need something to clamp the brake line too while the calipers off. Small little brass wire wheels and green pot scrubbing pads and solvent to clean the inside of the piston. The groove for the square seal is the most important bit to get. If the piston itself is pitted or looks bad at all bin the lot or get a new one.


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