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oil heating just stopped working.

  • 15-11-2013 6:28pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 79 ✭✭


    Hi.

    I have a house with oil central heating.
    last week we refilled the tank with fuel (it was about 33% full prior to the refueling.)

    Anyway the heating worked fine for about 2 days which leads me to believe it had nothing to do with the refueling...

    Anyway I switched on the heating and the light came on as usual... After about 3 minutes the boiler cut out and there was nothing. Tried turning it off and on and nothing.
    An hour later I tried it again and it came on for about 3 mins again and cut out.

    I believed it was the thermostat and rang a plumber.

    The plumber arrived and then said it was the circulation pump which he then changed. He explained he couldn't do the electric part of the procedure. He charged 120 euro for the pump and labour.

    My dad finished the 5 minute of electrics but we are now back to square 1...

    It comes on for about 3 minutes and then cuts out.

    Anybody have any idea what this could be??

    Thanks


«1

Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 2,842 ✭✭✭Billy Bunting


    your so called plumber sounds like a donkey, I wonder if he opened the isolation valves after changing the pump ?

    any pictures ??


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,940 ✭✭✭jimf


    your so called plumber sounds like a donkey, I wonder if he opened the isolation valves after changing the pump ?

    any pictures ??

    that's if it was the pump in the first place get the plumber back after all he was paid he knows how to charge he should know how to do the job not saying 120 is excessive for pump change

    but the least you would expect is he would make sure all is good before leaving site


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,590 ✭✭✭agusta


    Richard88 wrote: »
    Hi.

    I have a house with oil central heating.
    last week we refilled the tank with fuel (it was about 33% full prior to the refueling.)

    Anyway the heating worked fine for about 2 days which leads me to believe it had nothing to do with the refueling...

    Anyway I switched on the heating and the light came on as usual... After about 3 minutes the boiler cut out and there was nothing. Tried turning it off and on and nothing.
    An hour later I tried it again and it came on for about 3 mins again and cut out.

    I believed it was the thermostat and rang a plumber.

    The plumber arrived and then said it was the circulation pump which he then changed. He explained he couldn't do the electric part of the procedure. He charged 120 euro for the pump and labour.

    My dad finished the 5 minute of electrics but we are now back to square 1...

    It comes on for about 3 minutes and then cuts out.

    Anybody have any idea what this could be??

    Thanks
    Hi,do you press the reset button on the burner or the on/off switch on the timer clock to restart boiler..Im presuming your using the on/off switch.What you can do is set the thermostat to minimum when the boiler is cold and start boiler,after 3 mins when the boiler cuts out turn up the thermostat to max,If the boiler restarts you have a circulation problem.either the pump is not wired correctly or fuse gone, or no water in the system


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,186 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    jimf wrote: »
    that's if it was the pump in the first place get the plumber back after all he was paid he knows how to charge he should know how to do the job not saying 120 is excessive for pump change

    but the least you would expect is he would make sure all is good before leaving site

    He didn't wire the pump in Jim. Nice one.
    OP. stick with checking the circulating pump to rule that out before going further with it.

    Please follow site and charter rules. "Resistance is futile"



  • Registered Users Posts: 79 ✭✭Richard88


    I wouldn't know much about plumbing. Have no idea what isolation chambers are.

    Do you want a picture of the interior of the boiler.

    The plumber said the fault could be the wiring between the switch and boiler. Although that's fine for the past 15 years.

    Thanks for your reply


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,590 ✭✭✭agusta


    your so called plumber sounds like a donkey, I wonder if he opened the isolation valves after changing the pump ?

    any pictures ??
    I didnt think of that.this might well be the case


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,186 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    Richard88 wrote: »
    Hi.

    I have a house with oil central heating.
    last week we refilled the tank with fuel (it was about 33% full prior to the refueling.)

    Anyway the heating worked fine for about 2 days which leads me to believe it had nothing to do with the refueling...

    Anyway I switched on the heating and the light came on as usual... After about 3 minutes the boiler cut out and there was nothing. Tried turning it off and on and nothing.
    An hour later I tried it again and it came on for about 3 mins again and cut out.

    I believed it was the thermostat and rang a plumber.

    The plumber arrived and then said it was the circulation pump which he then changed. He explained he couldn't do the electric part of the procedure. He charged 120 euro for the pump and labour.

    My dad finished the 5 minute of electrics but we are now back to square 1...

    It comes on for about 3 minutes and then cuts out.

    Anybody have any idea what this could be??

    Thanks

    Next time it cuts out after 3 minutes turn the boiler stat up all the way to see if it starts up again. Then report back here. Don't forget to turn stat back to where it was after this test

    Please follow site and charter rules. "Resistance is futile"



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,940 ✭✭✭jimf


    Wearb wrote: »
    He didn't wire the pump in Jim. Nice one.
    OP. stick with checking the circulating pump to rule that out before going further with it.


    nice one is right wearb

    that's the same as us saying we service boilers
    but we don't run them after to do our usual checks sur if it works good if it don't call somebody else


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,428 ✭✭✭.jacksparrow.


    Wasn't Shane having problems with a bumper locking out after exactly 3 mins!?


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,186 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    jimf wrote: »
    nice one is right wearb

    that's the same as us saying we service boilers
    but we don't run them after to do our usual checks sur if it works good if it don't call somebody else

    Yeah. All fixed now mrs. Don't turn it on until I'm paid and gone!

    Please follow site and charter rules. "Resistance is futile"



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  • Registered Users Posts: 3,940 ✭✭✭jimf


    Wasn't Shane having problems with a bumper locking out after exactly 3 mins!?


    he was for sure jack he found a remote acting fv on his second visit he posted back here on Tuesday I think


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,590 ✭✭✭agusta


    Wasn't Shane having problems with a bumper locking out after exactly 3 mins!?
    Ya,it didnt get the better of him though


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,940 ✭✭✭jimf


    agusta wrote: »
    Ya,it didnt get the better of him though


    youd kinda get the impression he knows what hes at alright :D:D


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,842 ✭✭✭Billy Bunting


    Richard88 wrote: »
    I wouldn't know much about plumbing. Have no idea what isolation chambers are.

    Do you want a picture of the interior of the boiler.

    The plumber said the fault could be the wiring between the switch and boiler. Although that's fine for the past 15 years.

    Thanks for your reply

    your plumber is no plumber. never in my life have I heard of a plumber fit a pump but not wire it. :eek: (lack of little [EMAIL="wan@er"]wan@er[/EMAIL] smilie)

    picture of the pump and fittings please.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,940 ✭✭✭jimf


    your plumber is no plumber. never in my life have I heard of a plumber fit a pump but not wire it. :eek: (lack of little wan@er smilie)

    picture of the pump and fittings please.

    a come on billy them 3 wires can be a bit confusing now


  • Registered Users Posts: 9,499 ✭✭✭runawaybishop


    Richard88 wrote: »
    The plumber arrived and then said it was the circulation pump which he then changed. He explained he couldn't do the electric part of the procedure.

    Was he registered? Sounds like he isn't, or was taking the p1ss as he should have finished the job. Get on the phone to him.


  • Registered Users Posts: 79 ✭✭Richard88


    Thanks for the replies lads.
    I'm not at home at the moment to get a pic of it or try the suggestions ye gave me yet.

    My dad was saying he disconnected the wiring and connected it to an extension lead and then plugged it into a different socket and it worked fine.
    He reckons that the pump may have burned out because of this. (He's not a plumber or electrician tho) I'm waiting for a phone call to say he got blown away.

    Although this theory also sounds a bit strange as even when it's plugged into the original socket it the boiler has power going to it.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,842 ✭✭✭Billy Bunting


    jimf wrote: »
    a come on billy them 3 wires can be a bit confusing now

    think we'll need to get shane out to this one. :p


  • Registered Users Posts: 79 ✭✭Richard88


    Was he registered? Sounds like he isn't, or was taking the p1ss as he should have finished the job. Get on the phone to him.

    I have no idea. It was one of these ones where he got a number off the neighbour. Sound enough bloke but unfortunately didn't solve the problem


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,677 ✭✭✭shane0007


    Which button are you pressing exactly to restart the burner, the red lock out button on the burner itself or removing the black cap beside the temperature dial of the boiler & pressing the button behind it?

    If you are pressing the red reset button, then it is absolutely nothing to do with your circulating pump as this is a flame failure reset. It will be a burner or fuel issue.
    If the latter, generally a circulation issue as the boiler has experienced an overheat situation, but could also be trapped air within the boiler.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,677 ✭✭✭shane0007


    Absolutely ridiculous a plumber changed a pump without wiring it. I would not let anybody near my system that could not at least wire a three pin plug as the principles are identical!


  • Registered Users Posts: 79 ✭✭Richard88


    shane0007 wrote: »
    Which button are you pressing exactly to restart the burner, the red lock out button on the burner itself or removing the black cap beside the temperature dial of the boiler & pressing the button behind it?

    If you are pressing the red reset button, then it is absolutely nothing to do with your circulating pump as this is a flame failure reset. It will be a burner or fuel issue.
    If the latter, generally a circulation issue as the boiler has experienced an overheat situation, but could also be trapped air within the boiler.

    The red button...
    If the power cable for the pump is connected to an extension lead it kicks in and stays on.

    If the power cable is cable is connected as it originally was the red button doesn't work (although it did earlier I think)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,590 ✭✭✭agusta


    Richard88 wrote: »
    The red button...
    If the power cable for the pump is connected to an extension lead it kicks in and stays on.

    If the power cable is cable is connected as it originally was the red button doesn't work (although it did earlier I think)
    where was the cable connected to originally


  • Registered Users Posts: 79 ✭✭Richard88


    agusta wrote: »
    where was the cable connected to originally

    It was coming into the house and into a socket under the timer switch

    Just trying to upload photos


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,677 ✭✭✭shane0007


    You have a flame failure.

    First thing is to check whether you have oil in the tank. I understand you had it filled, but it is not unknown for tanks to be emptied (stolen) just after being filled.
    If oil in the tank, check at the bleed screw of the burner to see you have oil at the burner under a gravity flow. Depeding which burner you actually have will determine where the bleed screw is.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,677 ✭✭✭shane0007


    Richard88 wrote: »
    It was coming into the house and into a socket under the timer switch

    Just trying to upload photos

    Forget about cables for the moment. You have a flame failure lock out. Check the basics first.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,590 ✭✭✭agusta


    Richard88 wrote: »
    It was coming into the house and into a socket under the timer switch

    Just trying to upload photos
    could you plug something else into the socket when the timer switch is turned on and see if it works


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,677 ✭✭✭shane0007


    When you depress the red button, does the burner motor start?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,590 ✭✭✭agusta


    shane0007 wrote: »
    Forget about cables for the moment. You have a flame failure lock out. Check the basics first.
    I dont think so shane,i could be wrong but richard said the boiler is running when the pump is pluged into and extension lead..


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,590 ✭✭✭agusta


    richard is the boiler running when the pump is connected to an extension lead.just to be sure


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