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Clinker boat restoration

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Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 655 ✭✭✭FirstIn


    Ah Ok. So it's a stronger wood to take them.


  • Registered Users Posts: 655 ✭✭✭FirstIn


    bow%20post1_zpsu0ax5lq4.png


  • Registered Users Posts: 655 ✭✭✭FirstIn


    As you can see guys we have some rot that we've removed at the bow. This I reckon is down to the storage of the boat, i.e the shed it was in didn't have a door and the bow was exposed somewhat to the elements.

    We're really not sure how far to go with it here. Between the planks we're replacing and this rot at the bow the restoration is growing "legs".


  • Registered Users Posts: 655 ✭✭✭FirstIn


    Guys. Is anyone on here familiar with binding using epoxy. We are scarfing in new planks and gluing them.

    The guide mentions using a filler. Is this needed if the surfaces are smooth.

    http://www.westsystem.com/ss/bonding-gluing-clamping/


  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 6,320 Mod ✭✭✭✭fergal.b


    What I do is first wet the two joints with epoxy resin and let it get absorbed into the wood then while it's sticky apply some resin that has been into a paste with micro balloons "407" or fine sanding dust, even though your finish is nice and smooth it will still absorb resin on it's own but not as a paste.




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  • Registered Users Posts: 655 ✭✭✭FirstIn


    fergal.b wrote: »
    What I do is first wet the two joints with epoxy resin and let it get absorbed into the wood then while it's sticky apply some resin that has been into a paste with micro balloons "407" or fine sanding dust, even though your finish is nice and smooth it will still absorb resin on it's own but not as a paste.




    .
    Good explanation Fergal. I understand now. Thank you


  • Registered Users Posts: 655 ✭✭✭FirstIn


    Folks,what is the best filler/putty to use on the leading edges of the planks, as per these photos?

    Thank you

    9F7F3347-0299-49C7-A497-6F84184046CA_zpsmxqjfoln.jpg

    99AF652B-F1B7-4A8C-81A3-A679030327D8_zpshntmijmg.jpg


  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 6,320 Mod ✭✭✭✭fergal.b


    That looks like a big gap between the planking and breast hook do you think something moved out of place and just got filled instead of been fixed ?
    If I wanted a permeant fix that added strength I would go with epoxy resin mixed with sawdust from the planks to try and match the colour.
    If you just want to fill it in a way that you get a good seal and the planks can be easily removed for repair something like silkaflex caulking would do.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 655 ✭✭✭FirstIn


    Apologies, amiss of me not to keep you guys current on progress.

    In a nutshell,
    We have managed to copper nail in quite a number of the ribs. This is cold nailing/riveting.
    Cracked planks to the starboard stern replaced.
    More prep of the surfaces ready for more ribs.
    A massive undertaking on the bow stem. The upper part of this was rotten and we are having this replaced.

    Here are some pics.


  • Registered Users Posts: 655 ✭✭✭FirstIn


    ribs%20again_zpsl2ek4ho8.jpg

    nailed%20ribs_zps3rzerlse.jpg

    rear%20planks_zps05plxoie.jpg

    rear%20planks2_zps4plkifo4.jpg

    opened%20bow_zpshbzceoki.jpg

    rear%20prepped_zpsbkce8lyn.jpg


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  • Registered Users Posts: 655 ✭✭✭FirstIn


    Folks , we're still busy on the boat and at this stage we have most of the ribs replaced. The work on the bow / new breast hook has been completed.

    What I have noticed though and it concerns me is the gap between the garboarb planks on both sides at the forward extension of the keel. The stem. I understand the garboarb planks attach to the keel , to the underside of what can be thought of as a T shape made by the keel. But forward of the keel/the stem where it raises upwards this isn't the case.

    I could certainly mix west system epoxy with their filler powder and fill the gaps. However I'm worried about the consequences of expansion when we do get the boat in the water. The epoxy will be solid. In essence the boards won't be able to expand here.

    Is epoxy really what I should use?


  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 6,320 Mod ✭✭✭✭fergal.b


    The wood should be able to expand in other directions if needed, would it help to cut a strip of timber to fill the gap or maybe wet the boat down a few times over a week and see if expand and close up the gap a bit.



    .


  • Registered Users Posts: 655 ✭✭✭FirstIn


    Two years, a wee while. So how far did we get? We 95% completed the inside.
    We didn't get to the outside. We lost our shed and things/life got in the way.

    We still don't have a shed so I now have the boat in my drive. A bit of a pain, but at least with some decent weather it gives me the chance to try and finish this off. My carpenter has "emigrated" to Cork. This is a big problem as we have some wood work left to do, not much but tasks I can't do. Such as the "skids/runners" that were on the hull. Just one each side. So I've got to sort that.

    Here are some pics.

    Boat1_zpsb4xnscyc.png

    Boat2_zpszyszrf8p.png

    Boat3_zpszji3di4c.jpg

    The cat is Myles. He's taken on the important function of clerk of works on this job.


  • Registered Users Posts: 655 ✭✭✭FirstIn


    More heating and scrapping this evening. I have a long way to go. Progress may look good but ensuring the joins between the planks/lands are clean and then sanding will take some time. While this prep continues I am wondering re;

    What product to use to fill the small gaps at the lands and also where the innermost plank meets at the keel. Would sikaflex be ok? Can you paint over it?
    A trip in to Viking marine to get undercoat and paint.
    Should I use two part epoxy (west system) to coat the underside?
    Trying to find a carpenter that knows a thing or two re boats to make the short stringers we need towards the bow of the boat and a few other small parts.

    boat4_zpsa14bxwhy.jpg


  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 6,320 Mod ✭✭✭✭fergal.b


    I would go with the west systems to seal the planks you can also mix up the resin with your wood sanding dust to make a thick or tin filler for any gaps. Paint wont stay on skaflex .





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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,258 ✭✭✭sogood


    Enjoying the thread and admiring your work and dedication. Sorry to hear that your progress has been hampered by the change in circumstances. Best of luck in getting it finished.


  • Registered Users Posts: 655 ✭✭✭FirstIn


    Making some more progress. Keel band off this evening. What do people use for keel bands? Stainless Steel? Does anyone know a place in Dublin that will sell a strip of stainless if indeed that is what I need?

    boat5_zpsjl6ydack.jpg


  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 6,320 Mod ✭✭✭✭fergal.b


    FirstIn wrote:
    Making some more progress. Keel band off this evening. What do people use for keel bands? Stainless Steel? Does anyone know a place in Dublin that will sell a strip of stainless if indeed that is what I need?


    Stainless will be expensive just go with steel , aluminium or galvanised steel . I had lots of rub rail that would have done you but it's all gone to the scrapman now.





    .


  • Registered Users Posts: 655 ✭✭✭FirstIn


    Hi folks , I never did get to finish the boat. It’s up for sale now. (Hope that’s ok to say here) See donedeal and type clinker as the search.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,258 ✭✭✭sogood


    It happens sometimes. We don't always get to finish the projects we start, but then, some people don't even get to start them in the first place. Many people harbour the notion to restore and old car, motorboat or whatever and they go to meet their maker that way. Life is all about the journey, not the destination. Top marks for what you did get done.


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