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DIY Plasterboard ceiling hole fix.

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Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 231 ✭✭jaspertheghost


    can you put up some pics of the stripped down ceiling???


  • Registered Users Posts: 16 johnfoyvision


    A very informative and valuable forum discussion. A number of comprehensive paragraphs for understanding DIY. Thanks for sharing such a good posts.


  • Registered Users Posts: 199 ✭✭ukonline


    can you put up some pics of the stripped down ceiling???

    Took a couple of pics yesterday.

    Anyway, had some fun today playing around with string lines. Just string and nails trying to find a flat plane. Seems most of the joists are sagging to some degree but not as much as the joist over the door.

    A friend is coming to the house tomorrow to loan me a power plane and look things over. I'll take a few more pics then, and post them together with yesterday's over the weekend.


    :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 199 ✭✭ukonline


    Some pics.

    You can see the two joists above the door are almost an inch lower than the four joists to the right of the door at the top of that wall. A friend reckons the guy who put the door frame in cut and removed the cross member above the door. There is a timber cross member under the four joists to the right of the door.

    He suggested I 'jack up' those 2 joists and put in some 4 x 2 under where they rest on the door cavity. We may still have to sister those joists with more timber and shave some off the sag. The other joists just need a slight shave. (The 2nd pic shows a string line which highlights the sagging, and that line is not even that tight, tbh.)

    I'll also be putting some insulation in while I'm at it.

    :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 231 ✭✭jaspertheghost


    Be careful when your jacking them up; you may damage the roof...and be careful ya dont raise them to much....


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  • Registered Users Posts: 199 ✭✭ukonline


    Be careful when your jacking them up; you may damage the roof...and be careful ya dont raise them to much....

    Will do. Thanks.

    :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 199 ✭✭ukonline


    Almost done.

    Jacked up those two joists and have almost finished putting new slabs in.

    Decided not to use a power plane on the joists due to the odd buried nail in some of them, so I used a small electric saw to cut in vertically about 1/8th inch every 4 or 5 inches, then a hammer and chisel. Used saftey goggles and gloves to protect eyes and hands from small splinters!

    Where slabs met between joists, I used 8" 2x1 strips of wood to strengthen the edges and get them flush.

    Small bits of folded corrugated cardboard were inserted between slabs and joist bottoms where there were gaps.

    Light fitting was moved slightly to the center of the ceiling to meet with the two slab edges.

    Insulation was pushed in, in 24" lengths, after each row of slab was screwed in. (Wore goggles, mask and gloves for that!)

    Next step, mesh webbing tape and joint compound to cover gaps and screw holes.

    The first pic shows a very small bulge in one of the slabs. That was there before that slab went up and the other side of that slab is undamaged, so don't know what that is. Hopefully, the textured ceiling paint will hide it.

    ...


  • Registered Users Posts: 231 ✭✭jaspertheghost


    Are your slabs finishing half way on a joist? They all have too be screwed on or else they will sag....the bump is broken chalk..just cut the paper with a stanley and take out the loose stuff...then fill it with filler...remove any loose paper too.


  • Registered Users Posts: 199 ✭✭ukonline


    Are your slabs finishing half way on a joist? They all have too be screwed on or else they will sag....the bump is broken chalk..just cut the paper with a stanley and take out the loose stuff...then fill it with filler...remove any loose paper too.

    Thanks Jasper. Will do.

    Some slab edges extend beyond a joist, yes, but I screwed the 'floating' edges of those to a piece of 2x1 timber and joined that with the edge of the next slab. It's not even 2x1, more like 5/8 x 1 3/4. Very light timber.

    Do you reckon that's not strong enough and the textured paint will cause sagging?

    Will have to take my chances at this stage.

    :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 231 ✭✭jaspertheghost


    If you fixed the timber to the joist then it should be ok..watch the depth of the screws when your putting them in aswell...dont screw in to much.if ya break the paper with the head of the screw moisture will get in and loosen the slab...


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  • Registered Users Posts: 199 ✭✭ukonline


    If you fixed the timber to the joist then it should be ok..watch the depth of the screws when your putting them in aswell...dont screw in to much.if ya break the paper with the head of the screw moisture will get in and loosen the slab...

    Done. I've made sure the screws are only around 1mm into the board, thanks.

    Well, there are guests staying in the house for a couple of weeks, so might wait 'till they leave before taping and jointing/painting. Had to move some clutter back in and hate working around it.

    I'll check everything again before I start that, ie. make sure there are screws where there should be and that there are no screws that are too deep. I've got a spare slab, so may replace the damaged one if you reckon that's a better option.

    :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 231 ✭✭jaspertheghost


    Well theres no need to replace the slab..but if yoi want to just cut it off at the last joist and remove that section..look forward to the updates...oh and for the screws just rub your hand along the slab and if a screw catches your hand then its to far out...also you can just push the slab to make sure theres no movement...


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,428 ✭✭✭quietsailor


    Hey Lads, sorry I haven't posted in a while, exams have taken over my life!!

    ukonline - thats a cracking looking job, I'll bet your feeling proud of yourself now - as you should be


  • Registered Users Posts: 199 ✭✭ukonline


    Hey Lads, sorry I haven't posted in a while, exams have taken over my life!!

    ukonline - thats a cracking looking job, I'll bet your feeling proud of yourself now - as you should be

    Thanks and I appreciate all the help yee have given, couldn't have done it without.

    Hope I don't mess it up with the plastering and painting!

    :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 231 ✭✭jaspertheghost


    the plastering is easy enough (once your only doing tape and filler) ...just watch the angles,you will need to put the skrim onto the old wall aswell...but you can cut off the excess once the filler has dried...dont put to much on and dont worry if its not smooth straight away as you`ll have to sand it down when its dry...


  • Registered Users Posts: 231 ✭✭jaspertheghost


    any updates for us?


  • Registered Users Posts: 199 ✭✭ukonline


    any updates for us?

    Hello Jasper,

    Well, there were visitors in the house until recently so the room was full of clutter. There's another relative staying there this week, so the room might not be available to work in for another week or so. :rolleyes:

    Am going there tomorrow. Dependng on whether I can take the clutter out of the room or not, I can make a start then or wait 'till the visitor is gone.

    :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 199 ✭✭ukonline


    -

    Well, finally, the house is free again.

    Started taping and plastering. Should get everything finished this week. Will post pics on Thursday.

    Does anyone know how to get that stippled effect? (See pic in earlier post). I see Homebase have a
    stipple brush, but it's 20 Euro, :eek:

    Maybe I could use the head of a scrubbing brush?

    :p

    -


  • Registered Users Posts: 231 ✭✭jaspertheghost


    stipple is a pain in the arse.....ive seen it done with a paint roller before,or a sponge,if you have any leftover plaster board do a few tests first till you get it,if you start on the ceiling without trying it first ya might make a pigs ear of it and that would be one hell of a messy job to clean up..


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,184 ✭✭✭riclad


    MY friend had a leak, in the roof, damp patch in ceiling plaster, he replastered hole, then repainted the ceiling ,then stippled the whole ceiling ,it now looks like a new ceiling.
    it might have been simpler ,to remove damaged plasterboard slab,and just put in a new one of identical size.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 199 ✭✭ukonline


    stipple is a pain in the arse.....ive seen it done with a paint roller before,or a sponge,if you have any leftover plaster board do a few tests first till you get it,if you start on the ceiling without trying it first ya might make a pigs ear of it and that would be one hell of a messy job to clean up..

    -

    Thanks Jasper.

    Sorry, no pics. Took the camera today, but the battery was flat. Will get
    some pics up on Monday.

    Have finished most of the plastering. Will probably need to go over some
    parts again as the mesh is visible in places. It's tricky where top of wall
    meets new ceiling, I found, because the faces of the walls are not 100%
    flat at the top.

    Tried the sponge to get the stipple effect, works like a charm. Just need to
    buy a big sponge!

    :D

    -


  • Registered Users Posts: 231 ✭✭jaspertheghost


    did ya use skim plaster? any pics yet ?


  • Registered Users Posts: 199 ✭✭ukonline


    -

    I'm using joint compound.

    Have started applying the textured paint today after sanding down the
    dried plaster. A coat of sealant would have been helpful, will coat the
    remainder of the ceiling with sealant before continuing.

    Some pics before sanding. One pic shows a small patch of textured paint.
    The walls are going to be painted a brighter colour later. Tops of the walls
    are very bumpy in places, hence some extra plaster here and there.

    Using a 4" putty knife.

    :)

    -


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,695 ✭✭✭galwaydude18


    ukonline wrote: »
    -

    I'm using joint compound.

    Have started applying the textured paint today after sanding down the
    dried plaster. A coat of sealant would have been helpful, will coat the
    remainder of the ceiling with sealant before continuing.

    Some pics before sanding. One pic shows a small patch of textured paint.
    The walls are going to be painted a brighter colour later. Tops of the walls
    are very bumpy in places, hence some extra plaster here and there.

    Using a 4" putty knife.

    :)

    -

    Just an observation from your pictures but have you installed the slabs the wrong way around? I have always put the writing on the slabs towards the back where it meets the stud and you would have the grey side (the side with no writing) facing myself when installing it.

    Also the reason I do it that way is that where the slabs meet there is a slight taper that you fill with scrim tape and jointing compound and also so the writing will not bleed through the paint that way as well.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,876 ✭✭✭Spread


    The boards are the right way out only if scrimming and bonding or scrimming and Thistle Board finish. If using skimcoat/multifinish you should use adhesive first.


  • Registered Users Posts: 231 ✭✭jaspertheghost


    looks good,dont be to worried about slabs bein the wrong way,shouldnt cause to much trouble,just around where the edges are might come off if the compound doesnt take to the old paint,


  • Registered Users Posts: 199 ✭✭ukonline


    -

    Almost done.

    Ran out of branded textured paint, and it seems they don't make it
    anymore, (Polycell?). The paint was bought well over a year ago to repair
    the hole temporarily. Was lucky to find a Homebase equivalent. The
    texture is slightly different, but the colour seems fine.

    Will come back Monday when it's all dry and check for flat spots and the
    odd spot where more texture is needed. May need to go over the first
    half again. First half I did is that half between light & window. Then the
    second half, I was putting on much more texture and it looks much better.

    For the edges, I was thinking of applying 25mm tape around the ceiling
    edge, stipple right up to the tape, then remove the tape when the texture
    is dry to leave a nice border. Then just use a brush to apply a plain 25mm
    edge all 'round. Have taped a test section. Will see what happens Monday
    when I try to remove the tape, may have to score the dry paint with a
    knife and maybe 25mm is too wide. It's the narrowest tape I could find.

    Another alternative might be to stipple up close to the edge, with tape
    at the top of the walls. Then use a brush to the edge. Then when dry,
    score a half inch border with a screwdriver?

    :)

    -


  • Registered Users Posts: 231 ✭✭jaspertheghost


    thats a great job,you could also flatten down around the borders with a paint brush while the stipple is still wet, you could nearly make a career for yourself now as a stippler!! good man


  • Registered Users Posts: 199 ✭✭ukonline


    thats a great job,you could also flatten down around the borders with a paint brush while the stipple is still wet, you could nearly make a career for yourself now as a stippler!! good man

    -

    Thanks for all your help Jasper.

    I'll post another pic when it's finished.

    :)

    -


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  • Registered Users Posts: 231 ✭✭jaspertheghost


    no probs,look forward to seeing it


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