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Riello Boiler Problem

24

Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2 PRLoughM


    Hi JamesM, its been bled prop, it ignites, but then cut out after 30sec, and it an RDB. Thanks


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,775 ✭✭✭JamesM


    PRLoughM wrote: »
    Hi JamesM, its been bled prop, it ignites, but then cut out after 30sec, and it an RDB. Thanks
    It could be a faulty or dirty photocell. That's a black plastic tube that is pushed into the back of the burner (facing you). It has a wire coming out of it. If you carefully pull it out and look a the front of it, the glass might be dirty. If it is, that's almost certainly your problem - wipe it gently.
    If it is dirty, it can mean that there is another problem - dirty boiler, not burning properly, etc.
    Jim.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2 philsboiler


    Hope someone can help. I have a firebird boiler with riello rdb burner. My boiler locked out. Checked the oil tank and there was plenty oil in it, but I bled the burner for good measure. Didn't fix the problem. Sounds like the burner isn't firing before it locks out.

    After some faffing around I managed to get the burner working again. I pulled out the photocell (the photocell wasn't dirty) then hit the reset/lock out button and started the boiler up. I let it run for about 30 seconds then stopped it, put the photocell back in and started the boiler. The burner sounded better when i turned it on and it fired up ok.

    I inspected the tank and had a slight leak due to a loose nut on the pipe going into the filter. I turned off the boiler, shut the valve on the tank tightened up the nut to stop the leak, opened the valve. Fired up the boiler but it locked out. bled it again. locked out. fixed it again using the remove the photocell method. Not sure if the leak was a coincidence or something to do with the problem.

    Fingers crossed everything is ok now but if it locks out again... why does pulling out the photocell fix it? why is the burner locking out?

    Thanks
    Phil


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,775 ✭✭✭JamesM


    It shouldn't be anything to do with the leak. Sometimes if there is too much air, the photocell will not "see" the very clean blue flame that forms.
    The photocells can be faulty and the wires inside could be shorting and only connecting after you have moved it by pulling it in and out. What you have described is not the norm.

    One more scenario, if the level in the tank is very low (and the tank itself is low compared to the burner) the leak could let air into the oil pump. Running the burner with the photocell out could build up pressure in the pump - and then it starts when you put the photocell back in.
    Jim.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1 dino25


    I had the same sort of problem at the weekend. I have had a Firebird boiler with the 70/90 Riello RDB burner fitted, installed 20 months ago. So far I have had 4 breakdowns. Firstly 2 pumps replaced which siezed (Warmflow state that it is oil contamination, I am definitely disagreeing with that one). I have had to get a baffle changed in the boiler as the previous one was designed incorrectly and didn't allow enough airflow and eventually coked up and choked the boiler. Finally at the weekend the oil cut out yet again. This is where the thread is relevant. Boiler engineer checked the boiler and replaced the photocell, which did not cure the problem. He then changed the control board, which also has the transformer fitted, again did n not completely solve the issue. Eventually found that it was the photocell and control board were faulty. The photocell pulled the control board with it. Eventual cost including call out fee £175. My advice is if you think the photocell is dodgy, change it ASAP to avoid more expensive repair costs in the future.
    BTW, I am not too impressed by the Riello oil burner reliability, so if anyone has any advice as to which burner I can change to, I am all ears.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,775 ✭✭✭JamesM


    Up to a year or so ago. Riello were the most reliable burners I know. Then they started having trouble with oil pumps. The pumps started sticking (jamming). Warmflow and other suppliers have admitted this.

    A while back a service engineer told me that when he was servicing a RDB, he took out the photocell to check it and clean it. When he put it back in again, the burner started acting up. There had been no problem beforehand. He replaced the photocell with a new one, and all was OK again. Looks like something was shorting or breaking contact, when he moved the wire into the cell.
    Jim.
    dino25 wrote: »
    I had the same sort of problem at the weekend. I have had a Firebird boiler with the 70/90 Riello RDB burner fitted, installed 20 months ago. So far I have had 4 breakdowns. Firstly 2 pumps replaced which siezed (Warmflow state that it is oil contamination, I am definitely disagreeing with that one). I have had to get a baffle changed in the boiler as the previous one was designed incorrectly and didn't allow enough airflow and eventually coked up and choked the boiler. Finally at the weekend the oil cut out yet again. This is where the thread is relevant. Boiler engineer checked the boiler and replaced the photocell, which did not cure the problem. He then changed the control board, which also has the transformer fitted, again did n not completely solve the issue. Eventually found that it was the photocell and control board were faulty. The photocell pulled the control board with it. Eventual cost including call out fee £175. My advice is if you think the photocell is dodgy, change it ASAP to avoid more expensive repair costs in the future.
    BTW, I am not too impressed by the Riello oil burner reliability, so if anyone has any advice as to which burner I can change to, I am all ears.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2 philsboiler


    Just over a week later and the boiler has locked out again. I have tried the photocell method again to get it firing up but its not working this time. Sounds a bit rough, clicking a bit when its starting up. Not sure if it has sucked some crap in there. I'm gonna buy a new photocell tomorrow and fit it. Lets see if this fixes the problem otherwise I think I'm gonna have to call out a plumber and I guess I'm looking at a couple of hundred quid to get it fixed.

    Any more ideas?


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,775 ✭✭✭JamesM


    Just over a week later and the boiler has locked out again. I have tried the photocell method again to get it firing up but its not working this time. Sounds a bit rough, clicking a bit when its starting up. Not sure if it has sucked some crap in there. I'm gonna buy a new photocell tomorrow and fit it. Lets see if this fixes the problem otherwise I think I'm gonna have to call out a plumber and I guess I'm looking at a couple of hundred quid to get it fixed.

    Any more ideas?

    It could be the oil pump packing in, it's hard to tell.
    Have you looked at the front of the burner. Take off the nut at the top of the burner and pull the burner out - make sure that it is off :eek:. If there is dirt built up on the draught tube, that could be affecting the photocell. Or if something has fallen down inside the boiler - in front of the burner. Or if the boiler has blocked up, there could be damage to the draught tube. All these could cause the photocell to act up.
    Jim.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,397 ✭✭✭LowOdour


    Dont want to be hijkacking the thread but my Firebrand boiler locked out today and I (stupidly) turned the pressure screw. Got the airlock fixed and the boiler has been running fine the last 2 hours. Its turning on and off as before, the heat in the rads are the same and all are working. there is no smell of burning etc coming from the boiler.

    My question is, if there is a problem after adjusting the screw, when should I notice the problem...and what problems could this adjustment cause?


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,775 ✭✭✭JamesM


    LowOdour wrote: »
    Dont want to be hijkacking the thread but my Firebrand boiler locked out today and I (stupidly) turned the pressure screw. Got the airlock fixed and the boiler has been running fine the last 2 hours. Its turning on and off as before, the heat in the rads are the same and all are working. there is no smell of burning etc coming from the boiler.

    My question is, if there is a problem after adjusting the screw, when should I notice the problem...and what problems could this adjustment cause?

    I presume that it is a Riello burner. The pressure should be set with a gauge, but you are probably OK if the screw is about 12 to 15 half turns out from fully in. You should see the wider part of the screw just coming out of the slot.
    If there is a problem, you could notice smoke from the vent, or a sharp smell. But sometimes, you do not notice anything until you open the boiler and find a layer of soot. This would be uneconomical.
    Jim.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,397 ✭✭✭LowOdour


    JamesM wrote: »
    I presume that it is a Riello burner. The pressure should be set with a gauge, but you are probably OK if the screw is about 12 to 15 half turns out from fully in. You should see the wider part of the screw just coming out of the slot.
    If there is a problem, you could notice smoke from the vent, or a sharp smell. But sometimes, you do not notice anything until you open the boiler and find a layer of soot. This would be uneconomical.
    Jim.
    I reset the screw, to make sure it is 12 t0 15 half turns. Again, all seems fine. Ive noticed that the rads are a little warmer than they were before.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,775 ✭✭✭JamesM


    LowOdour wrote: »
    I reset the screw, to make sure it is 12 t0 15 half turns. Again, all seems fine. Ive noticed that the rads are a little warmer than they were before.
    The heat of the water in the rads is controlled by the boiler stat - you may have moved it slightly when you were trying to get the boiler going.
    Jim.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,249 ✭✭✭magentis


    More problems here!I have a firebird 70/90 with riello rdb2.2 burner.
    All was well until last week when it started belching out thick black smoke.I took the baffle plates out and cleaned down the boiler which was full of soot.i cleaned the burner nozzle and photocell and put it all back together.
    It wont start up off the clock in the house anymore i can hear the water pump running but i have to hit the button on the dual stat to get it to start.If i turn off the clock in the house and turn it back on again within minutes it starts fine but if its a few hours i have to go out and press the button on the stat again.the smoke is gone alright but this button thing is a pain.anyone have any idea what the problem is?


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,775 ✭✭✭JamesM


    Either you have the thermostat turned right up to it's highest, or the high limit stat is faulty.
    There could also be air trapped in the top of the boiler. If the hot water flow from the top of the boiler turns down into the ground, or along the floor, very soon after the pipe exits the boiler, the boiler can overheat when the timer is switched off (circulating pump also switches off). Turn down the stat and see how it goes.
    Jim.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,249 ✭✭✭magentis


    still having problems!
    i replaced the dual stat and that has solved the start up problems,it ran fine for a few days and now its smoking again.its only 2 years old and got very little use for the first year.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,775 ✭✭✭JamesM


    magentis wrote: »
    still having problems!
    i replaced the dual stat and that has solved the start up problems,it ran fine for a few days and now its smoking again.its only 2 years old and got very little use for the first year.

    Running time has nothing to do with it, if the burner is not adjusted properly.
    Nozle size, oil pressure and air adjustment are all critical. The oil that goes up in soot and black smoke could cost you more than a good service engineer !
    Jim.


  • Registered Users Posts: 237 ✭✭Traditional


    my pump siezed up on a reillo rb only less that 2 years old , replaced pump and tried to start it out side of boiler to tune it , would not start ! running ok purging ok as well ! got tired of it put it back in the boiler , hit the switch that evening and off she went ! wot do think the problem was ?


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,775 ✭✭✭JamesM


    my pump siezed up on a reillo rb only less that 2 years old , replaced pump and tried to start it out side of boiler to tune it , would not start ! running ok purging ok as well ! got tired of it put it back in the boiler , hit the switch that evening and off she went ! wot do think the problem was ?

    Riello have had problems with their oil pumps in the last few years - some only lasting a few months.
    The airflow on the RDB is a lot stronger than the G3, and sometimes the flame will not establish, or will float away, especially if the burner is out of the boiler. When the burner is in the boiler there is some back pressure which will help to establish the flame.
    Jim.


  • Registered Users Posts: 237 ✭✭Traditional


    hi jim,
    wot number should boiler be at for good combustion , the diesel ones could be set easily but with the kerosene its not all that easy , i think its at 2 on burner .


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,775 ✭✭✭JamesM


    hi jim,
    wot number should boiler be at for good combustion , the diesel ones could be set easily but with the kerosene its not all that easy , i think its at 2 on burner .

    It's a RDB. It depends on nozzle size (should be at least .60 gal, maybe .75 gal.), and oil pressure (15 to 17 half turns out from fully in), and then air adjustment would usually be between 3 and 5. Try to make sure that the flame is not orange or smokey - clean yellow, with a hint of blue :D. But make the blue almost disappear. Of course, it should be done with the proper insruments by a service engineer :).
    Jim.
    Light may have got at the photocell, when you tried to run it outside the boiler, that would also stop it igniting.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 237 ✭✭Traditional


    yes it is that model u mentioned , no i have the gear for the service , a gauge 10 bar for kero 12 for diesel but i will try that , used to look for the tell tale smoke on the diesel .


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 22 JIMMYBOND007


    you need to get a oftec engineer to look at your boiler and burner,black smoke=carbon monoxide which can be fatal and can kill.oftec lads are qualified engineers that know what they are doing ,you can not get the safe operation of a boiler by gussing how many turns of air or pump pressure needs to be,every boiler operates different there for different preformances,the professionals use a gas flue analayser to get the best effiencey out of your boiler in a safe manner as per manufactors instructions.engineer will give you a printout of analayser result as proof of the way he left your boiler ,which also shows your effiencey.word has it that house insurance companys will be asking for a copy of these results in the near future,so in case of a house fire they know a unqualified person was at boiler.hopefully oftec will be fully in this year and anybody who is not qualified will get a big fine(supposed to be €12000) or imprisonment:)


  • Registered Users Posts: 237 ✭✭Traditional


    i would look lovely using a gas analayser on a kerosene burner , go back to oftec and ask them that , will you i think the carbon has got into your brain , with fines as you seem to be hell bent on telling us , thats why the manufacturer give manuals with the burners so we can mess around with them its great !! , you should go out to BLACKROCK with your magic wand as the council is looking for a lad like you that wrecked 3 houses and see your handyman work ha ha ,


  • Registered Users Posts: 237 ✭✭Traditional


    An Oftec engineer ??
    no such thing , all it is a bit of cardboard with your name on it , and that qualifies you as an engineer ?? i dont think so , oftec are a money making outfit , engineers go to universitys for years on end and have qualifcations , not some 2 bit course down in the middle of the bog , get a life for your self and stop being an imposter as you will be found out by the insurance companies , ha ha never heard as much BULL !


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 22 JIMMYBOND007


    "i would look lovely using a gas analayser on kerosene burner"no such a thing as oftec engineer?
    see these type comments just prove that this cowboy does not have any idea what he is on about when it comes to boilers.lesson 1 cowboy come back when you know something about the subject that the tread is about!
    gas analayser measures the amount of gases out of any flue on a oil boiler or gas boiler;)have you got that?has it sunk in yet? as for oftec if you ring any oil boiler manufactors and ask them who should fit my boiler they tell you any oftec engineer as printed on bottom of all manufactors instruction booklets.just like gas boilers should be installed by rgi lads as seen on tv ads.so donkey get your facts right 1st,who did you say worked in blackrock now?these are the type of people yous should be aware of !

    blackrock comments arent really nice when people got injured in the accident,it could of been one of your family members .:confused:


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 22 JIMMYBOND007


    "i would look lovely using a gas analayser on kerosene burner"no such a thing as oftec engineer?
    see these type comments just prove that this cowboy does not have any idea what he is on about when it comes to boilers.lesson 1 cowboy come back when you know something about the subject that the tread is about!
    gas analayser measures the amount of gases out of any flue on a oil boiler or gas boiler;)have you got that?has it sunk in yet? as for oftec if you ring any oil boiler manufactors and ask them who should fit my boiler they tell you any oftec engineer as printed on bottom of all manufactors instruction booklets.just like gas boilers should be installed by rgi lads as seen on tv ads.so donkey get your facts right 1st,who did you say worked in blackrock now?these are the type of people yous should be aware of !

    blackrock comments arent really nice when people got injured in the accident,it could of been one of your family members .:confused:


  • Registered Users Posts: 237 ✭✭Traditional


    Dont be changing the subject , OFTEC is a comercial enterprise that anyone off the street can sign up for a course , no previous exp. needed , and your telling me that after doing the Gid 1 & 3 Makes an engineer ? you can hire a gas analayser these days if you really need one . and by the way it was an OFTEC approved trumped up so called engineer that caused that problem out the south side , people use Board Gais approved Installers and thats a fact they are the safest .


  • Registered Users Posts: 648 ✭✭✭PeteHeat


    Hi Traditional,

    You are correct when you say OFTEC is a commercial enterprise, well at least the training providers are making the money running the training courses.

    I think you are wrong about the qualification and who can complete the course, as I understand it anyone who wants to pay can take the course but not the exam without proof that they completed their apprenticship.

    Also when anyone servicing oil boilers looks for insurance they will have to produce proof they took the course and passed the exam.

    The very burners under discussion were amoung the easiest to set up and many plumbers / heating engineers dispensed with using the flue gas analyser.

    Looks like boilers will have to be set up properly from now on, the element of forgiveness (around 10 > 15% inefficiency) will no longer be tolerated.


  • Registered Users Posts: 237 ✭✭Traditional


    hi peteheat,
    dont cod yourself its money they are after i know everybody thinks its an ideal world out there , but there is no regulation , ok RGI are trying to get in on the act now but cant see it taking off too well i can pick up the ph now and have insurance for gas work etc no problem , and a dodgy Gid , did anyone ever tell you to stop work ? no i dont think so and it wont happen , another scam RGI have dreamt up mind you its a good one them saying they are going to regulate the industry and get a large payment from Dublin Gas for running it , as well as a fee to be a member every year !


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  • Registered Users Posts: 237 ✭✭Traditional


    hi James ,
    what can one do with contaminated oil ? its just black sludge in fuel filter and tank was just filled , can it be seperated ?
    thanks


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