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Making/replacing steel brake pipes.

  • 20-11-2012 10:25pm
    #1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 8,223 ✭✭✭


    I though I'd post a few pics of what's involved in making and replacing a steel brake line. This is a subject that seems to get a lot of mentions on here due to NCT fails for rust and mis-information on the costs and labour/costs involved in having them changed.

    Some brake pipes can be changed very easily and quickly depending on where they are positioned or where the corrosion has taken hold. But there are two main things to consider regarding labour time and how difficult the job can be, 1. you can't buy steel brake lines specifically made for any car, they have to be made by the garage/technician and 2. brake lines are one of the first items fitted to the bare shell during the manufacturing of the car, meaning they are normally hidden away behind fuel tanks, axles, exhausts etc etc, making access extremely difficult sometimes.

    So a few pics to give an idea....Car is a 2004 BMW 320ci.

    The area of the brake pipe which failed the NCT for corrosion:

    2012-11-20160339.jpg

    The pipes or normally originally fitted as one piece from the master cylinder or ABS pump to the wheels/axle so to prevent having to change the entire pipe, it can be cut and joined to the new section but this can only be done where access allows and the section of pipe is straight enough.

    A couple of pics of how the pipe runs up and over the fuel tank making it impossible to join anywhere close to the axle(not to mention a nightmare to get at):

    2012-11-20160359.jpg

    2012-11-20160416.jpg

    To enable access to the pipe and the clips that hold it onto the chassis, the fuel tank straps are dropped to the fuel tank can be manoeuvred to make space. On this car, you can just about get enough space without actually dropping the tank fully:

    2012-11-20161035.jpg

    The easiest place to join the pipes is the long straight sections that run the length of the floor in the middle of the car.

    Cutting the pipe to complete removal:

    2012-11-20162056.jpg

    With the old section off the car the new pipe is laid out as shaped roughly the same as the old section to give the correct length required:

    2012-11-20162548.jpg


Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 8,223 ✭✭✭Nissan doctor


    When the pipe is cut to length, the unions are slid on to each end first:

    2012-11-20162635.jpg

    The the end of the pipe has to be flared to it seals correctly when the unions are tightened. It is very important that these are flared perfectly as any poorly made flares could be dangerous for obvious reasons. Its also important that the correct type of flare is made to suit the type of join being made:

    2012-11-20162758.jpg

    And the flare completed:

    2012-11-20162903.jpg

    The pipe is then first fitted back up into its clips following the original path as this is sure to be clear of any moving parts or high temperature areas:

    2012-11-20163941.jpg

    The join of the new and old sections, as mentioned above about flare types, the new section has a male type flare so the original pipe gets a female type flare for a perfect seal. A female union is also fitted to the original pipe:

    2012-11-20170448.jpg

    The sections joined and tightened fully, Ideally you need proper brake pipe spanners for this:

    2012-11-20170713.jpg

    And the two ends of the new pipe fitted and tightened in place:

    2012-11-20170851.jpg

    2012-11-20164624.jpg


    The system is then bled with all new fluid and after bleeding all unions are checked for leaks while under pressure and then its off back to the NCT.:)


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,027 ✭✭✭Row


    Niceone N-Doctor...:cool:
    The new pipe looks like copper to me...If so then it will last a lifetime..:)


  • Registered Users Posts: 692 ✭✭✭richardsheil


    Have to say I always enjoy your threads Nissan Doctor. Great work.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 12,985 ✭✭✭✭dgt


    ND, in a bit of a predicament here, trying to take the unions off a set of copper lines I have here but they're corroded into position...

    Any tips? I don't want to resort to drilling the pipe out :(


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 8,223 ✭✭✭Nissan doctor


    Row wrote: »
    Niceone N-Doctor...:cool:
    The new pipe looks like copper to me...If so then it will last a lifetime..:)

    Kunifer pipe to be exact:) Its even longer lasting and harder then the full copper lines so less easily damaged by road debris.

    dgt wrote: »
    ND, in a bit of a predicament here, trying to take the unions off a set of copper lines I have here but they're corroded into position...

    Any tips? I don't want to resort to drilling the pipe out :(

    Honestly, I'd buy new unions. You'll get a couple of them for feck all in a motor factors. If there is enough corrosion to sieze the union to the pipe then even if you do get it off, there will be damage/wear on the union.


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