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PC Build

  • 14-02-2012 3:46pm
    #1
    Pangea
    Registered Users Posts: 5,565 ✭✭✭


    11. What is your budget?
    Was willingly to pay 600 or more on dell but since I’m considering building it hopefully lower than 600? Budget doesn't concern me too much as long as I get a good build.

    2. What will be the main purpose of the computer?
     Recording from TV Card ( Will put a tv card in it), Video encoding. Internet and listening to music.

    3. Do you need a copy of Windows?
    I have a windows seven disc already, not sure if it will work on another pc so please post a link to another copy.

    4. Can you use any parts from an old computer?
    Yes
    I bought a brand new PSU last year that wouldn’t work with my old PC, something to do with the wrong pins , so if thats good enough and compatible with my new build then Il defiantly use that!
    Here it is. I have it still in the box.
    http://www.scan.co.uk/products/530w-psu-be-quiet-pure-power-l7-bn106-80-plus-sli-crossfire-quiet-fan-atx-v23

    Heres a graphics card I have. I’m note sure if it obsolete now or not? I don’t mind paying for a new one.
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814127296
    Suggest a new graphics card if needed please

    5. Do you need a monitor?
    Maybe?
    I have a monitor already a LG Flatron, its nearly 7 years old, but it’s not widescreen or hd so it will probably suffice unless someone explains a good reason to get a new one?
    Suggest a 22 inch monitor if you can please 

    5b. If no, what resolution is your current monitor and do you plan to upgrade in the near future?
    Here is my current monitor, if this is good enough for a new computer then I have no plans to upgrade
    http://www.amazon.co.uk/LG-Electronics-L1915S-LCD-Monitor/dp/B00076V8TY



    6. Do you need any of these peripherals?
    Yes Would like a new Keyboard, Mouse, SD Card Reader, Speakers.

    7. Are you willing to try overclocking? Don’t know much about it so no.

    8. How can you pay? Any method

    9. When are you purchasing? Within next few weeks

    10. If you need help building it, where are you based? Co.Donegal


    Further notes:

    Is it possible to include usb 3.0 in a build. I would like it.
    This PC will be in a bedroom.
    I'm not entirely sure if I will go ahead building one as it is a bit daunting but I would like to see what some of you would suggest me to go for if I was to build one. One last thing sorry for all the maybes. :o


«1345

Comments

  • #2
    Monotype
    Registered Users Posts: 6,710 ✭✭✭Monotype


    Pangea wrote: »
    3. Do you need a copy of Windows?
    I have a windows seven disc already, not sure if it will work on another pc so please post a link to another copy.

    Are you still using on another PC?
    4. Can you use any parts from an old computer?
    Yes
    I bought a brand new PSU last year that wouldn’t work with my old PC, something to do with the wrong pins , so if thats good enough and compatible with my new build then Il defiantly use that!
    Here it is. I have it still in the box.
    http://www.scan.co.uk/products/530w-psu-be-quiet-pure-power-l7-bn106-80-plus-sli-crossfire-quiet-fan-atx-v23

    Heres a graphics card I have. I’m note sure if it obsolete now or not? I don’t mind paying for a new one.
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814127296
    Suggest a new graphics card if needed please

    PSU looks ok. That graphics card is pretty bad so integrated graphics would be just as good so long as you're not doing heavy gaming or anything.
    Is it possible to include usb 3.0 in a build. I would like it.

    Many motherboards have two USB 3 ports in the back. I presume that this isn't really what you have in mind? To get USB ports at the front you have to do one of the following:

    1) Get a case with USB 3 ports at the front which connect to the ports at the back
    2) Get a case which connects to USB 3 headers on the motherboard (better solution but only more expensive boards have the headers)
    3) Get a USB 3 hub which is outside the case and connects to the back.
    4) USB front plate which would be added in like a card reader and may connect to headers or around the back.
    5) Get a cheap board with no USB 3 and add in a separate card and combine with any of the above.


  • #3
    Pangea
    Registered Users Posts: 5,565 ✭✭✭Pangea


    Monotype wrote: »

    Many motherboards have two USB 3 ports in the back. I presume that this isn't really what you have in mind?
    Two usb 3 ports at the back would be perfect, Dont care about the front :)

    Monotype wrote: »
    Are you still using on another PC?
    I was but the PC isn't working anymore and wont even boot up.
    I'm not quite sure if the windows seven disc can install 64bit either, I had it installed as a 32 bit. I'l try and find out.
    If I could use my current one that would be great, I could always buy windows 8 when it comes out later in the year.


  • #4
    Monotype
    Registered Users Posts: 6,710 ✭✭✭Monotype


    Item|Price
    Total build cost: €553.62 + €30 shipping
    Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium 64-Bit (SB-Version)|€80.14
    LiteOn iHAS122-18 schwarz SATA|€16.54
    Samsung SpinPoint F3 500GB, SATA II (HD502HJ)|€75.00
    8GB-Kit G.Skill PC3-10667U CL9|€33.65
    Intel Core i5-2500K Box, LGA1155|€191.82
    BitFenix Merc Beta|€31.85
    Ultron Cardreader 75-in-1, intern, schwarz|€8.64
    Edifier 2.1 System M1350|€22.15
    ASRock Z68 Pro3 Gen3, Sockel 1155, ATX|€93.83

    It doesn't matter if it was 32-bit or 64-bit that you had installed, the keys are the same so long as you use it with the same edition. You might be able to reuse it again. Retail editions can be moved to a new PC. OEM/system builder ones are tied to the motherboard of the previous PC but you can ring up Microsoft and get them to activate it a second time for you if you have a good excuse.

    That's from hardwareversand which is one of the most used sites around here because of their prices but you should be aware that they only take bank transfers, which is more common in Germany.

    There's no keyboard or mouse. They have a load of mice on their site but the keyboard layouts are German so you might want to get these somewhere more local like amazon.co.uk (free delivery above £25) or komplett.

    The copy of windows is German, so you need an English disc. You can get these by following the links in the guide in my signature. They have the English versions too but they're a bit dearer.

    Although you said that you wouldn't be overclocking, I gave you an overclockable CPU and motherboard as you mentioned encoding which would benefit from a lot of processing power. Overclocking is very easy with these CPUs so don't discount the idea yet.

    If this PC is to be on all day, you might want to add in a more efficient PSU (450W gold rated PSU is ~€62).


  • #5
    Pangea
    Registered Users Posts: 5,565 ✭✭✭Pangea


    Looks savage, and reasonably priced with good specs, better bang for buck than Dell.
    Thanks a million for taking the time to post that. No worries on the mice and keyboard I can get them anywhere and my old ones would do for the time being :)
    Might get a 1TB version of that hardrive for an extra 14 euro it would be worth it.
    The PC usually is on all day, could you post a link to that PSU you recommended please? I couldn't find it. I'l definitely look into overclocking then thanks.

    Just need to scour through the building guides to try and see if I could manage to put it all together now :).


  • #6
    Monotype
    Registered Users Posts: 6,710 ✭✭✭Monotype


    Here's the PSU:
    http://www1.hardwareversand.de/articledetail.jsp?aid=41092

    That would leave plenty of room even if you were to add in a graphics card. The integrated graphics handles HD video and can help with encoding too.

    Yeah, hard drive prices are a bit all over the place with the recent shortage so the price of small ones has increased even more that the large ones.
    I'm not sure what the warranty is now on the samsungs. They've been taken over by seagate who's cut their warranty to 1 year, but I'm not sure if that affects samsung drives yet. Their warranty information just links back to the seagate site so I'm not sure. Western Digital have 2 years warranty but the Samsung F3 is certainly a very fast drive and faster than WD's standard ones (caviar blue).


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  • #7
    Pangea
    Registered Users Posts: 5,565 ✭✭✭Pangea


    Thanks for that, one question, probably a silly one, but what about the fan that lies at the top of a PC, do I need one of those?
    Also when there is integrated graphics can a graphics card run along side integrated graphics?


  • #8
    Monotype
    Registered Users Posts: 6,710 ✭✭✭Monotype


    In the case I linked to earlier on? The fan holes at the side? You could put fans there alright. I think the case comes with one or two which is enough for a PC with no graphics card or even a low end one like the 8400gs.

    Yes, the Z68 motherboards do support switching between integrated and dedicated graphics cards (which wasn't possible in the past, you had to have one or the other). I don't think that there'll be a whole lot of situations where the 8400GS would be much better than the integrated but it can be done.


  • #9
    Pangea
    Registered Users Posts: 5,565 ✭✭✭Pangea


    Monotype wrote: »
    In the case I linked to earlier on? The fan holes at the side? You could put fans there alright. I think the case comes with one or two which is enough for a PC with no graphics card or even a low end one like the 8400gs.

    Yes, the Z68 motherboards do support switching between integrated and dedicated graphics cards (which wasn't possible in the past, you had to have one or the other). I don't think that there'll be a whole lot of situations where the 8400GS would be much better than the integrated but it can be done.

    I was referring to an actual fan.
    In my current pc (which is old), there is a Brushless DC Cooling fan at the top of the pc. Are these required anymore? or do they come with the motherboard.


  • #10
    Monotype
    Registered Users Posts: 6,710 ✭✭✭Monotype


    As in outside the case?


    ... or do you mean one for the processor? The 2500K comes with a fan to keep it cool which you must use, although you can get better ones.


  • #11
    Pangea
    Registered Users Posts: 5,565 ✭✭✭Pangea


    Monotype wrote: »
    As in outside the case?


    ... or do you mean one for the processor? The 2500K comes with a fan to keep it cool which you must use, although you can get better ones.

    Thats fine, you know what your talking about where as I dont, I just thought I might need to buy a fan seperatly. :)
    Some other basic questions if you dont mind.


    1.Out of curiosity, If I was to say go for an i7 processer.
    Would that fit in ok with all the other spec you mentioned? Would an i7 be overkill for just video editing?

    2.Will the intel i5 and i7 be a lot cheaper once the ivy bridge comes out in april?

    3.Do i have to use a thermal paste like i seen on some building videos?

    4,Since its a german site, are the plugs all European, or are they irish plugs?

    5.Would the psu 450w you suggested be strong enough watt wise?
    I would like a really quiet one.
    I was reading some from this thread, one suggested is a modular one, not sure what that means though although they are more expensive.
    http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2056544763


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  • #12
    Monotype
    Registered Users Posts: 6,710 ✭✭✭Monotype


    1. You'd be looking at the 2600K. It's pretty much the same as the 2500K except that it comes with hyperthreading and a little extra cache. The hyperthreading is useless for most things, for example games, but it is good if you're doing a lot of video encoding. Now the 2500K is very fast by itself and €100 less so you'd really need to weigh up the difference - would you be doing a lot of encoding.

    2. Not much. Intel will stop making them, in bulk anyway. The ones that are still around might drop slightly but shops will no longer stock them; not very many people will want them as nearly all boards will be compatible with Ivy Bridge. The place where they will drop in price is in the second hand market. People will want to sell off their old 2500Ks and get a new Ivy Bridge CPU. It will be much easier this time as Intel have forward compatibility (for once).

    3. You get some on the heatsink. You'd need some if you were to take it off and put it back on again.

    4. Some of the time, they send out UK/Irish plugs but I think that might just apply if they build it for you. It's just the PSU one that needs changing. This is the same kind of plugs that's been in use in all computers for a long time or in electric kettles (although fuses are usually lower rating in the PC ones).

    5. 450W would be loads. It's likely that it will run near silent as the load of that PC wouldn't even reach 200W. If the load is light, the PSU won't be getting hot and the fan will be running slowly.
    A modular PSU is one where you can disconnect some of the cable that you don't need so there's less cables in your PC. It's very handy but not related to performance.
    In that thread, I mentioned not to buy coolermaster's non-modular ones because they're of poor quality. It's not to do with the fact that they're not modular or anything, it's just that this particular manufacturer cuts corners in several of their PSU ranges. Their expensive PSUs which are modular, are good.


  • #13
    Pangea
    Registered Users Posts: 5,565 ✭✭✭Pangea


    Thanks for all that. Great stuff.
    Would you say that it is worth waiting for the ivybridge to come out, seeing as its only two months away?


  • #14
    Monotype
    Registered Users Posts: 6,710 ✭✭✭Monotype


    Estimations are two months away, but they could delay - after all they are not under pressure with their current CPUs selling well.

    The motherboards don't have any really interesting features, but I'd expect the CPUs to get a boost of ~10% anyway.
    You'd get a increase in the power of the GPU too.

    As for whether it's worth waiting... it's difficult to say. It's not the end of the life for the socket so there'll be doors open with CPU upgrades and there's always new technology around the corner. You'd have to decide yourself.

    If noise was a big issue, you can get cases with soundproofing. The biggest noise maker in a system like that would most likely be the CPU fan. It would get noisy if it's doing heavy work like encoding but you shouldn't hear it when it's just doing simple tasks. You can get other ones but you probably don't need any more additions to the budget!


  • #15
    Pangea
    Registered Users Posts: 5,565 ✭✭✭Pangea


    Interesting, I might just go ahead and get the current one. Il have to think about it.

    About the i7, I don't think I would bother paying an extra 100 euro for that then.

    As for the windows seven, the one I have is apart of a 3 family pack, a friend in the states bought it and gave me the key so Its a retail version, not sure if the disc can install 64bit or not but if not I can download the iso from your signature links :)
    Also think I will pay 20 euro for them to build it for me.

    As for getting a 1TB instead of 500GB Hardrive, I heard a myth once that larger capacity hardrives tend to break down a lot more. Is there any truth to that? The 500GB will probably suffice anyway as I tend to store everything on External 1TB HDs.

    As for sound proof cases, could you post a link to one please?
    I'm sure the CPU fan with it will be adequate, I'm used to a very noisy old PC here unfortunately, it sounded like a small tractor at times.

    Really appreciate all your help here.


  • #16
    Monotype
    Registered Users Posts: 6,710 ✭✭✭Monotype


    Yeah, so long as the key is valid, whether you use a 64-bit or 32-bit install doesn't matter.

    Here's the assembly item that you add to the cart.
    http://www2.hardwareversand.de/articledetail.jsp?aid=746

    Larger drives breaking down? It could come from drives with higher capacity having more platters. Drives nowadays have 1-4 platters. Less platters usually means lower power consumption so it is an advantage. It's not something that's usually listed so you have to dig around. I think that the 500GB F3 has one platter and the 1TB has two. I wouldn't be overly concerned about this - I'd be looking more at models with bad reviews or brands with poor reputation - many SSDs have been poor quality but the only outstandingly bad hard drive in recent years is Seagate's 7200.11 series.

    Here's some info on hard drive return rates:
    http://hdd-compare.com/en/blog/hard-disk-drives-rma-statistics
    http://www.behardware.com/articles/843-6/components-returns-rates-5.html

    Although hard drives are currently priced very high, there's no substitute for backing up your valuable data. No hard drive should be relied upon as absolutely safe.

    A great near silent case is the Fractal Design Define R3 - it's around €90 though.
    http://www2.hardwareversand.de/articledetail.jsp?aid=36379

    That's a fairly big case; they also have a define mini, which I assume has similar features but you'd need to pair it with a smaller mATX motherboard.
    http://www2.hardwareversand.de/articledetail.jsp?aid=49191

    There shouldn't be too much noise from a system like that. The only thing that's there to make noise is the PSU (should be very quiet on low load and should stay quiet for that system), the CPU fan (quiet on low load but would get a bit noisier when doing work) and the case fan. I haven't used this case myself but anandtech said that it was pretty quiet. You could replace the fan later if you weren't satisfied or you can probably connect it to the motherboard to regulate the speed.

    If you wanted a quieter CPU fan, the freezer pro 13 is a good choice.
    http://www2.hardwareversand.de/articledetail.jsp?aid=49255
    I know that HWV won't install some of the bigger heatsinks in case they damage the motherboard during shipping so you may not want this.


  • #17
    Pangea
    Registered Users Posts: 5,565 ✭✭✭Pangea


    Monotype wrote: »
    Yeah, so long as the key is valid, whether you use a 64-bit or 32-bit install doesn't matter.

    Here's the assembly item that you add to the cart.
    http://www2.hardwareversand.de/articledetail.jsp?aid=746

    Larger drives breaking down? It could come from drives with higher capacity having more platters. Drives nowadays have 1-4 platters. Less platters usually means lower power consumption so it is an advantage. It's not something that's usually listed so you have to dig around. I think that the 500GB F3 has one platter and the 1TB has two. I wouldn't be overly concerned about this - I'd be looking more at models with bad reviews or brands with poor reputation - many SSDs have been poor quality but the only outstandingly bad hard drive in recent years is Seagate's 7200.11 series.

    Here's some info on hard drive return rates:
    http://hdd-compare.com/en/blog/hard-disk-drives-rma-statistics
    http://www.behardware.com/articles/843-6/components-returns-rates-5.html

    Although hard drives are currently priced very high, there's no substitute for backing up your valuable data. No hard drive should be relied upon as absolutely safe.

    A great near silent case is the Fractal Design Define R3 - it's around €90 though.
    http://www2.hardwareversand.de/articledetail.jsp?aid=36379

    That's a fairly big case; they also have a define mini, which I assume has similar features but you'd need to pair it with a smaller mATX motherboard.
    http://www2.hardwareversand.de/articledetail.jsp?aid=49191

    There shouldn't be too much noise from a system like that. The only thing that's there to make noise is the PSU (should be very quiet on low load and should stay quiet for that system), the CPU fan (quiet on low load but would get a bit noisier when doing work) and the case fan. I haven't used this case myself but anandtech said that it was pretty quiet. You could replace the fan later if you weren't satisfied or you can probably connect it to the motherboard to regulate the speed.

    If you wanted a quieter CPU fan, the freezer pro 13 is a good choice.
    http://www2.hardwareversand.de/articledetail.jsp?aid=49255
    I know that HWV won't install some of the bigger heatsinks in case they damage the motherboard during shipping so you may not want this.

    Good info there tks.
    The Fractal design is a beast of a case, looks great though. If I did go for that would It work ok with the build you suggested?
    I'l have to think about, the cheaper case will probably be fine for me though.

    The Bitfenix beta one you suggested should be fine,the one on that link is a Bitfenix alpha. Seems to be a top vent on the Alpha one.
    http://www2.hardwareversand.de/articledetail.jsp?aid=50575&agid=631
    http://www1.hardwareversand.de/articledetail.jsp?aid=50576&agid=631

    I think I'l stick with the CPU fan that comes with.

    If I was to get a monitor, what would you suggest?
    21 or 22" would be nice,


  • #18
    Monotype
    Registered Users Posts: 6,710 ✭✭✭Monotype


    The only difference between the alpha and the beta is the additional room for fans at the top. For some reason the alpha has been reviewed more times. The beta has a load of places for fans already, so you don't need more and airflow should be better with less random holes in the case.

    The define R3 would be fine with that build. If you got the mini version, you'd need a mATX motherboard like...
    http://www1.hardwareversand.de/articledetail.jsp?aid=50842

    For €100, the BenQ 2225HD is a not a bad choice. Comes with 1920 x 1080 resolution and DVI connection. You can get more luxurious panels like IPS in the €100-200 range.
    http://www1.hardwareversand.de/articledetail.jsp?aid=51957


  • #19
    Pangea
    Registered Users Posts: 5,565 ✭✭✭Pangea


    Monotype wrote: »
    The only difference between the alpha and the beta is the additional room for fans at the top. For some reason the alpha has been reviewed more times. The beta has a load of places for fans already, so you don't need more and airflow should be better with less random holes in the case.

    The define R3 would be fine with that build. If you got the mini version, you'd need a mATX motherboard like...
    http://www1.hardwareversand.de/articledetail.jsp?aid=50842

    For €100, the BenQ 2225HD is a not a bad choice. Comes with 1920 x 1080 resolution and DVI connection. You can get more luxurious panels like IPS in the €100-200 range.
    http://www1.hardwareversand.de/articledetail.jsp?aid=51957

    There seems to be less high speed usb connectors on the define R3 than the beta case.
    Would this have any effect on me?

    What exactly is IPS, is that LED?

    I'm thinking about waiting for the ivybridge in April. Its not that far off and I'm not in a big rush really.


  • #20
    Monotype
    Registered Users Posts: 6,710 ✭✭✭Monotype


    You'd still have all the USB ports at the back for all the main stuff like keyboards. The ones on the case are for memory sticks that you might be using temporarily with easy access at the front.

    There's different kind of LCD panels. The cheaper ones are TN which are fine for the most part. Some of them use LED backlights which is good for lower power consumption and thinner displays. They're still a TN screen though.
    The IPS panels are higher quality ones which offer far better colours and viewing angles. IPS would be the ones seen in professional environments and up to recently have been very expensive, but a few consumer level ones have been released in the past year.

    Info on LCD technologies & LED (first link is a technical view but the second link explains "LED" displays a bit more).
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liquid_crystal_display#Active_matrix_technologies
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LED-backlit_LCD_television

    Examples of IPS screens:
    http://www2.hardwareversand.de/articledetail.jsp?aid=53840
    http://www2.hardwareversand.de/articledetail.jsp?aid=52290
    http://www2.hardwareversand.de/articledetail.jsp?aid=52611
    http://www2.hardwareversand.de/articledetail.jsp?aid=53650

    This site is an excellent resource with extremely in-depth reviews with guides and recommendations:
    http://www.flatpanelshd.com/guides.php


  • #21
    Pangea
    Registered Users Posts: 5,565 ✭✭✭Pangea


    Going to order this pretty soon as I am not going to wait for ivybridge, it's too far away.
    Think il go for the Fractal Design R3 over the Bit fenix, the dust filters seem like a handy feature and overall the case looks pretty sleek and is around the same size as the case I have now so I'm used to the size of it.

    Just have to decide now if Il get a monitor or not. Its tempting. The old LG I have doesn't have widescreen or anything, not sure I need widescreen but it would look pretty nice.
    Current Build with the Dearer case and 1TB HD and the PSU and Assembly is a total 617.35C then 30 euro shipping on top of that.
    (Not going to bother getting any speakers, the speakers I have will be fine and the windows 7 I have should work)
    Cant imagine me getting a machine like that on Dell for under 800 euro :).


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  • #22
    Pangea
    Registered Users Posts: 5,565 ✭✭✭Pangea


    Just another question the motherboard says
    5 x SuperSpeed USB + 1 x FireWire + 3 x Hi-Speed USB + (2 x SuperSpeed USB + 1 x FireWire + 4 x Hi-Speed USB via headers)

    Does that mean there is five usb 3.0 ports at the back?
    Is USB 3.0 up and running now without any problems now, i.e. is it as fast as we are ought to believe?

    This is the tv card I have.
    There will be space for this in the motherboard?
    http://www.amazon.co.uk/Hauppauge-HVR3000-Analogue-digital-satellite/dp/B000I1RHVQ


    So this is looking like the build, thanks monotype.
    Think I'l go for this monitor, it looks very nice indeed.

    Item|Price
    Total build cost: €765.62+ €20 Assembly + €30 shipping
    LiteOn iHAS122-18 schwarz SATA|€16.54
    Samsung SpinPoint F3 1000GB, SATA II (HD103SJ) |€99.00
    8GB-Kit G.Skill PC3-10667U CL9|€33.65
    Intel Core i5-2500K Box, LGA1155|€191.82
    FRACTAL DESIGN Gehäuse DEFINE R3 Black Pearl |€91.70
    Ultron Cardreader 75-in-1, intern, schwarz|€8.64
    ASRock Z68 Pro3 Gen3, Sockel 1155, ATX|€93.83
    Super-Flower SF450P14XE Golden Green Pro 80plus gold |€62.17
    Iiyama ProLite X2377HDS-1 |€168.27


  • #23
    Monotype
    Registered Users Posts: 6,710 ✭✭✭Monotype


    Pangea wrote: »
    Just another question the motherboard says
    5 x SuperSpeed USB + 1 x FireWire + 3 x Hi-Speed USB + (2 x SuperSpeed USB + 1 x FireWire + 4 x Hi-Speed USB via headers)

    Does that mean there is five usb 3.0 ports at the back?

    No, I think it's a mistake. I had a look on the website and in the manual - there's just the two. Most motherboards with USB 3 only have the two but some of the more expensive ones have additional headers on the board for more in the future. You can pick up expansion cards for €10-€20 if you found that you needed more down the line.
    Is USB 3.0 up and running now without any problems now, i.e. is it as fast as we are ought to believe?

    It will be faster so long as you have a USB device to support it. For example, an external hard drive could reach speeds of 100MB/s but USB 2 could only provide around 40MB/s. If you have a USB 3 enclosure, you should get the full 100MB/s. So yes, a big difference there.

    Keep in mind that you bought a USB 3 flash drive, you'll still be bound by the speed of the flash drive. For example, if it claims 70MB/s read and 30MB/s write, you'd get 40MB/s read and 30MB/s write on USB 2 while you'd be getting 70MB/s read and 30MB/s write on USB 3.

    Note that any USB 2 devices used on USB 3 don't get magically faster; they have to be USB 3 themselves (although I did see some tests done and there were slight increases on occasion).

    External hard drives are the same as internal drives so you could replace the enclosure with a USB 3 one (although this could void the warranty).
    This is the tv card I have.
    There will be space for this in the motherboard?
    http://www.amazon.co.uk/Hauppauge-HVR3000-Analogue-digital-satellite/dp/B000I1RHVQ

    Should be fine so long as it's compatible with windows 7.


  • #24
    Pangea
    Registered Users Posts: 5,565 ✭✭✭Pangea


    Thanks for that.
    I see the monitor I am thinking of getting has speakers inside it, in your opinion is that more of a drawback than a benefit? I think I would rather leave the sound to my speakers.
    Also what size of a monitor would you recommend, do you think 24" is far too big? I never worked on a widescreen before so I am not familiar with them.


  • #25
    Serephucus
    Registered Users Posts: 7,179 ✭✭✭Serephucus


    Moving to a widescreen is quite a change, but after a while, you'll get used to it. I had a 22" for about two years, but then I switched to a 24" IPS monitor, and I've never looked back.


  • #26
    jaykhunter
    Moderators, Entertainment Moderators Posts: 12,013 Mod ✭✭✭✭jaykhunter


    I just moved to a WS monitor (going from 17" FS to 23" WS) and it was a massive jump - also in the brightness, my old dell monitor was a decade old. Took a few days to get used to it; now when using my old computer, i think there's something really wrong with the aspect ratio, i started changing the resolution and everything as i thought it was too narrow!

    I'm v happy w/ 23", as a monitor i think it's great for editing. when i sit back and play (Skyrim) i do think it's a bit small so i cable out to the telly.


  • #27
    Monotype
    Registered Users Posts: 6,710 ✭✭✭Monotype


    Any time I went up in monitor size, it's been a shock for the first week or two but you get used to it quickly and other ones look weird. 23'' is a good size for today's needs.

    In the past, I've found that integrated speakers have been poor quality. However, there's no need to use the speakers in the monitor if that's the one that you like.


  • #28
    Pangea
    Registered Users Posts: 5,565 ✭✭✭Pangea


    Monotype wrote: »
    Any time I went up in monitor size, it's been a shock for the first week or two but you get used to it quickly and other ones look weird. 23'' is a good size for today's needs.

    In the past, I've found that integrated speakers have been poor quality. However, there's no need to use the speakers in the monitor if that's the one that you like.

    Thanks, So is there an option to turn off the speakers in the monitor?


  • #29
    Monotype
    Registered Users Posts: 6,710 ✭✭✭Monotype


    Just don't connect in the audio cable. That's if you're using DVI. I'm sure you'd be able to disable it if you're using HDMI and the sound goes through that. I'm sure a lot of people would be unhappy if you couldn't!


  • #30
    Pangea
    Registered Users Posts: 5,565 ✭✭✭Pangea


    After much thought, I am going to go for this one. Ergonomically sound and very nice to look at.
    http://tinyurl.com/7tjv2aq


    I was drifting towards a LG Flatron IPS235V but I'm just not fan of the foot of the LG monitors and I heard that model in particular was quite shaky.
    That seems to be all ready, will order the PC Build in the morning, looking forward to this beast of a PC :D


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  • #31
    Monotype
    Registered Users Posts: 6,710 ✭✭✭Monotype


    I have that one. It's a good monitor - as I said, it can be a shock for a while moving up, but it's all good now.

    Here's a good analysis type review.
    http://www.flatpanelshd.com/news.php?subaction=showfull&id=1317112577

    Hmm... the Samsung F3 has been marked as discontinued. I wonder if it's just a temporary shortage of stock (HWV have been known to do this) or if it it's actually at the end of its line. If the latter is the case, I haven't heard of any replacements. It could be that Seagate are already getting rid of the Samsung branding, although I would be very surprised that it would be this fast. If this is the case, it would mean that the acquisition is very far along and might mean that the warranty is just 1 year, the same as seagates. It's a fast drive so there's not much competition against it. If warranty is important, there's the Western Digital black for €20 more which has 5 years and pretty much matches up the F3 in terms of performance.
    http://www1.hardwareversand.de/articledetail.jsp?aid=37168


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