Samoyed Huskie

I'd go back to basics if I were you, and re-train 'come' in the house and garden before moving up to fenced in fields. It might be worthwhile to get a trainer in to help.

Unfortunately there are some breeds of dogs (hounds and huskies are ones I've heard mentioned most) that just can't be trusted off lead ever. I don't let one of my pair off without a 10 meter line trailing behind her because she just can't be trusted to come back if there's another dog, or a bird, or an interesting smell.

lisar201 wrote: »

tanx i'll try that, the other 2 dogs are brillaint off the lead and i thought he would pick it up from them aswell, is there anything in particular i should look out for with this breed as i don't know anybody who has ever had this type of dog

If you ignore all the Caesar Milan propaganda on in www.dogbreedinfo.com is a pretty good reference site. There are definitely Sammy breed clubs around who'd be able to give you more info too.

Siberian Huskies are one of the breeds that can NEVER be let off the leash, not unless you want to spend weeks putting 'missing' posters up, or want to find your dog under a car.

You should really have done research on the breed in advance of getting your pup, I have one but spent a year researching them before I got her.

You need your fencing to be at least 6foot high, as your dog will be able to jump anything shorter when it is fully grown. Huskies love to dig too, so the fence should be very secure on the bottom, and they are escape artists, if theres any little hole or way out your husky will find his way out!!

No matter how much training you do with your dog, please never let him off the leash!!! Invest in the longest stretchy lead you can find, as thats probably the best compromise!!!

No such thing as a Samoyed Huskie.

There are Samoyeds,and there are Siberian Huskies.

Got any pics of your dog?

That's a new one on me. Never once have I heard them referred to as Samoyed Huskies. But I've heard people mistaking them for Huskies alright. :rolleyes:

Yeah, but the results that come up are nearly all classified ads and probably backyard breeders and puppyfarm dealers! Sure don't lots of people refer to the Rough Collie as a "Lassie Collie." Doesn't mean it's the correct name for them, it's just common parlance.

I'd more likely invest in a decent palisade fence rather than an electric one. As others have said they may not effect a Sammy because of the thickness of the coat. They're also notorious for not stopping an excited dog from getting out, but stopping them from getting back in when they try to come home. I've heard tales too of dogs lying just inside the e-fence range (many of them give a warning buzz to alert the dog that it's about to get shocked) until the battery runs down in the collar, thus rendering the e-fence useless.

http://cgi.ebay.ie/Gelert-Dog-Tether-Steel-Spike-Camping-Outdoor_W0QQitemZ140296585704QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Pet_Supplies_Dogs?hash=item20aa5401e8#ht_1737wt_1165

you can get these in most big pet shops and they sell 30ft waterproof rope/leads. if the dogs not outside too long this could help.

jen_23 wrote: »

Lisa those electric shock collars are very cruel! Especially when they are put up wrong.

I would disagree that they're cruel. I would agree that they are a complete waste if put up wrong. But setting them up correctly is not enough.

Setting them up and training the dog correctly are key.
Perseverance as you say yourself regarding the training.

I introduced it to our Sami @ 4 months old running on 1.5 acres. 2 days patient training. Product recommends 1 months training - I suspect most people who get the pet safe look at it as a quick fix and are probably shocked to find out in the instructions that a months training is recommended.
Patient training and a smart dog - a few hours will do the trick, just so long as your patient and use positive reinforcement.

After 3 days the dog was fully aware of the entire boundary. Even on the occasion where he doesn't have the collar on, he does not go into the beep zone, even when excited.

As far as the dog is aware, the only time he crosses the boundary is when he has a lead on. He does so without even flinching as he's been trained properly.

Negative aspect - shock for the dog if he attempts to go past the perimeter.
Note to another poster (the hair doesn't stop the shock). If you feel that you have to remove some hair, do not shave it, trim instead.

Positive aspects -
Not worrying farm animals.
Not trespassing on neighbours.
Not going on the road - Sami has no savy at all when it comes to cars.
Preventing the worst, getting knocked down by a car resulting in probable death and being hit with 2 to 3k of a bill to fit a new bumper.

Pet safe is money well spent. More like €200+ for one though.

I would definitely concede that the pet safe is not a substitute. The Samoyed needs company, they thrive on it. Better recall, more efficient training including toilet training.

These dogs go backwards in terms of behaviour if left on their own.
They'll get their teeth into anything that's even remotely chewable, they'll dig holes bigger than themselves in minutes if they start to suffer from boredom. They are wonderfully interactive dogs that thrive on human contact.

At 4.5 months my dog is on approximately 30k of walking additional to his run around outside. 2k of out and out running once every 4/5 days in the park.
And I'd imagine he'd like to do more. At the mention of 'walkies' he shakes with excitement, then sits and provides his paws to fit the harness.

One word of note regarding the pet safe. I do not expect it to work if the neghbours dog is in heat.
Nothing less than a solid boundary that the dog cannot get over or under will work.