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The Hamster Clinic (or the Repair Advice Thread)

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Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 1,792 ✭✭✭zerohamster


    vidhill wrote: »
    Make: Canon
    Model: 40D

    Fault:

    The shutter release button on my Canon 40D has started acting up, from Googling it seems like it's a common problem

    Given the value on a 40D these days spending a lot (I've heard it costs a lot) repairing it would be a bit of false economy..

    What are the opinions/options/people to talk to?

    I'm based in Cork btw

    Just to figure out what you mean by acting up, do you mean you have to put more pressure on the button to get the camera to release, it gives errors when you take photos sometimes, the button feels spongey or other?

    If the switch requires more pressure, then it is oxidised which is a common problem on the X0D series of DSLRs and is a quick repair.

    If the problem is with the switch it wouldn't cost a lot either.

    If you want to PM me I do repairs and I can give you more details?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2 vidhill


    The switch requires more pressure.. sometimes I have to release the button and press again.

    -half press for focus lock is working as normal

    It'd be okay for regular work but for sports when I'm waiting for the right moment it's a disaster..

    I have a found a guy based here in Cork who is going to have a look at it for me


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,792 ✭✭✭zerohamster


    vidhill wrote: »
    The switch requires more pressure.. sometimes I have to release the button and press again.

    -half press for focus lock is working as normal

    It'd be okay for regular work but for sports when I'm waiting for the right moment it's a disaster..

    I have a found a guy based here in Cork who is going to have a look at it for me

    Yes that is the oxidisation I was talking about. It should just need a clean and it will be fine.

    Best of luck with the repair.


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,984 ✭✭✭NakedDex


    Make: Nikon

    Model: D60

    Fault: Pop up flash opens, but doesn't fire.

    I'm not sure how it happened, it's been like this for a good while but lack of use let me leave fixing it on the long finger. I suspect it took a minor spill in the bag at some point.

    It's not something that's ever bothered me because I only take this body on holidays so I don't have to take my D300S, but I'm giving it to a friend who's starting to get interested in photography so if it can be fixed, it'd be great.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,792 ✭✭✭zerohamster


    NakedDex wrote: »
    Make: Nikon

    Model: D60

    Fault: Pop up flash opens, but doesn't fire.

    I'm not sure how it happened, it's been like this for a good while but lack of use let me leave fixing it on the long finger. I suspect it took a minor spill in the bag at some point.

    It's not something that's ever bothered me because I only take this body on holidays so I don't have to take my D300S, but I'm giving it to a friend who's starting to get interested in photography so if it can be fixed, it'd be great.
    Hi Dex,

    I was talking to you about this before, I believe it is simply the flash pop up switch at fault here.
    Basically when the flash head pops up it causes a switch to contact when it is fully up and tells the camera that the flash is in the upright position and therefore can use the pop up flash.
    The switch is depressd by a cyclindrical plastic insert on the base of the flash that has either a small nib or ramp that as it rotates to the up position causes the switch to move to the on position.

    Sometimes this insert can pop into the inside of the head and the flash won't activate because the camera thinks the flash is still down.

    Hope that helps for anyone with D40, D60 and whatever other models this affects.

    I'll PM you the message I'd sent you last year.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 41 Tearaway


    Most likely the bulb has burnt out and can be replaced without buying the whole motor and part of the head assembly.

    The red light upon start up combined with all other functions working is pretty indicative of the bulb failing.


    PM me for more details if you would like.


    Thanks zerohamster - sent you a pm as requested a few days ago - just wondering if you got it.


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,155 ✭✭✭PopeBuckfastXVI


    Make: Bronica

    Item: Lens

    Model: Zenzanon 50mm f/2.8 MC for ETRS

    Fault: When the shutter button is pressed the mirror flips up revealing the shutter fully closed, and the shutter does not open. Have tried this with the back open and varying shutter speeds, including several seconds. The shutter does not reopen until it is cocked again by the wind on crank. The camera works perfectly with my 75mm and the batter indicator light comes on when tested.

    When/how it happened: Bought the lens second hand, and hasn't worked since I got it.

    Thanks in advance!


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,792 ✭✭✭zerohamster


    Make: Bronica

    Item: Lens

    Model: Zenzanon 50mm f/2.8 MC for ETRS

    Fault: When the shutter button is pressed the mirror flips up revealing the shutter fully closed, and the shutter does not open. Have tried this with the back open and varying shutter speeds, including several seconds. The shutter does not reopen until it is cocked again by the wind on crank. The camera works perfectly with my 75mm and the batter indicator light comes on when tested.

    When/how it happened: Bought the lens second hand, and hasn't worked since I got it.

    Thanks in advance!

    Can't say for sure without seeing the lens but I would be happy to have a look if you wanted.
    Could be mechaanic or electronic in nature if the release is electronically controlled.


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,155 ✭✭✭PopeBuckfastXVI


    Can't say for sure without seeing the lens but I would be happy to have a look if you wanted.
    Could be mechaanic or electronic in nature if the release is electronically controlled.

    Thanks ZH, where are you based? I can mail you the lens and paypal you money?


  • Registered Users Posts: 215 ✭✭chisel


    Make: canon

    Model: lens 24-105 f4L

    Fault:

    This is for a friend: took his lens on hols, stopped working. He did a bit of reading etc, and he seems to think it's a fault where some wire/harness becomes disconnected inside. Of course that could be wrong!

    He isn't on boards, could you possibly pm/email me your contact details so he could ring/email you?

    Thanks


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  • Registered Users Posts: 75 ✭✭john47


    Make: Sigma Flashgun (for Nikon)

    Model: EF 530

    Fault: Small square black piece of plastic on bottom, under locking wheel broken.

    I dropped my camera, flashgun first, luckily camera is fine, including the hot shoe on camera, but flashgun isnt.

    Can I get the piece of plastic replaced or do I need to replace the whole bottom section of the flashgun. Is there sauldering needed or is it (only) a job of unscrewing broken part and replacing.

    Thanks

    John Ryan


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,792 ✭✭✭zerohamster


    john47 wrote: »
    Make: Sigma Flashgun (for Nikon)

    Model: EF 530

    Fault: Small square black piece of plastic on bottom, under locking wheel broken.

    I dropped my camera, flashgun first, luckily camera is fine, including the hot shoe on camera, but flashgun isnt.

    Can I get the piece of plastic replaced or do I need to replace the whole bottom section of the flashgun. Is there sauldering needed or is it (only) a job of unscrewing broken part and replacing.

    Thanks

    John Ryan

    I don't think it should require soldering if it is just the hot shoe that needs replacing but you have to be careful with the pins and springs so that you don't lose or break any.

    208103.jpg

    If you are looking to do it yourself be careful to not short anything as there is a huge charge stored in the Capicitor that could kill you, otherwise shoot me a PM and I'll give you details.

    The part can be bought here:

    http://www.ebay.ie/itm/SIGMA-EF-530-DG-SUPER-NIKON-NA-ITTL-HOT-SHOE-FOOT-MOUNT-/330463396853?pt=Camera_Flash_Accessories&hash=item4cf12743f5


  • Registered Users Posts: 75 ✭✭john47


    Thanks Zero, I think I can manage it but I'll PM you if I chicken out...

    John Ryan


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,792 ✭✭✭zerohamster


    john47 wrote: »
    Thanks Zero, I think I can manage it but I'll PM you if I chicken out...

    John Ryan

    No problem,

    Good luck with the repair!


  • Registered Users Posts: 304 ✭✭aidanic


    Have a Canon EOS 30 film 35mm camera. When you insert the batteries, the display, both on top and in the viewfinder light up all the segments.

    medium.jpg

    If you tilt the camera, you can see that the "full on" is actually about 50%, and that the correct LCD segments are lit about 100%.

    medium.jpg

    The full display is lit even in the off position. Need to remove the batteries. The camera does work, exposures are correct. You're just flying blind, so to speak.

    The camera came to me this way - not sure what happened. I'm OK with tools, so should be able to fix it, if I can get a pointer or two.

    Thanks

    Aidan


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,160 ✭✭✭Top Dog


    Make: Canon

    Item: DSLR Body

    Model: 450D

    Fault: Error 99

    When/how it happened:

    Had borrowed the camera while out with friends, and suspect it may have taken a knock while in standby mode. Didn't realise it at the time, and while taking a series of photos it just stopped and flashed up the Error 99 on the screen. Took battery out, replaced with a fresh one, error still present. Realised later when the photos were downloaded that the last few photos it had taken had huge shadows through them, almost like the shutter hadn't fully opened/closed when capturing the shot.

    Since then my wife has tried all the fixes she could find online but to no avail. Given the flat charge for sending it to the UK for a repair, I'm kinda reluctant. The camera is about 4 years old at this stage. The same money could possibly be better spent buying a secondhand replacement or being put towards a newer replacement, so basically I'm looking for somewhere over here to have a look and tell me if it can be fixed and how much it might be.

    Started another thread and zerohamster was suggested, so here I am ;)


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,792 ✭✭✭zerohamster


    aidanic wrote: »
    Have a Canon EOS 30 film 35mm camera. When you insert the batteries, the display, both on top and in the viewfinder light up all the segments.

    medium.jpg

    If you tilt the camera, you can see that the "full on" is actually about 50%, and that the correct LCD segments are lit about 100%.

    medium.jpg

    The full display is lit even in the off position. Need to remove the batteries. The camera does work, exposures are correct. You're just flying blind, so to speak.

    The camera came to me this way - not sure what happened. I'm OK with tools, so should be able to fix it, if I can get a pointer or two.

    Thanks

    Aidan

    I've never come across that happening before actually but it looks like the contrast is messed up on the LCD.

    When the camera is in the off position does anything show up 100% on the top LCD bar frame counter and film roll indicator?

    I would say it's a bad top LCD but I can't say for sure really.

    Ill see if I can find any information or if this is a common fault etc...(or even if there is a way to change the contrast on the LCD as that seems to be the only problem.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,792 ✭✭✭zerohamster


    Top Dog wrote: »
    Make: Canon

    Item: DSLR Body

    Model: 450D

    Fault: Error 99

    When/how it happened:

    Had borrowed the camera while out with friends, and suspect it may have taken a knock while in standby mode. Didn't realise it at the time, and while taking a series of photos it just stopped and flashed up the Error 99 on the screen. Took battery out, replaced with a fresh one, error still present. Realised later when the photos were downloaded that the last few photos it had taken had huge shadows through them, almost like the shutter hadn't fully opened/closed when capturing the shot.

    Since then my wife has tried all the fixes she could find online but to no avail. Given the flat charge for sending it to the UK for a repair, I'm kinda reluctant. The camera is about 4 years old at this stage. The same money could possibly be better spent buying a secondhand replacement or being put towards a newer replacement, so basically I'm looking for somewhere over here to have a look and tell me if it can be fixed and how much it might be.

    Started another thread and zerohamster was suggested, so here I am ;)

    Luckily (or not) for you I believe the fault wasn't caused by a drop or bang but simply component failure from wear and tear.
    From your description of the last few photos with shadows on them it sounds like the shutter has failed and what you are seeing are the blades obstructing the photo.

    This can happen for a number of reasons but most likely a part of the shutter failing.

    I'd be happy to take a look at it for you or can give you more info in any case if you'd like to send me a PM?


  • Registered Users Posts: 304 ✭✭aidanic


    Thanks for looking - my own searches bring up this. Will give it a look.


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,160 ✭✭✭Top Dog


    Pm on its way :)


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  • Registered Users Posts: 4,160 ✭✭✭Top Dog


    Luckily (or not) for you I believe the fault wasn't caused by a drop or bang but simply component failure from wear and tear.
    Well on the plus side - it'd mean it wasn't my fault which would be nice :D


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,792 ✭✭✭zerohamster


    aidanic wrote: »
    Thanks for looking - my own searches bring up this. Will give it a look.

    Yeah, if you follow the LCD guide and remove the LCD (clean contacts with isopropyl alcohol) and reinsert. I would use a crosspoint (XPT screwdriver blade) to open the camera as they fit much better than philips and won't strip the screw even on very tight screws that won't budge.

    Post back with your results anyway as it may help others.

    Good luck!


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,792 ✭✭✭zerohamster


    Top Dog wrote: »
    Well on the plus side - it'd mean it wasn't my fault which would be nice :D

    That's true, bullet possibly dodged ;)


  • Registered Users Posts: 304 ✭✭aidanic


    Post back with your results anyway as it may help others.

    Got the LCD out, and back in with no problems. No change in the actual problem, and with a battery installed, the display is full on. It could just be the display chip, since the viewfinder display is also full on, or some control circuit related to it. Will give Canon a shout, as I'm not that local to you ZH.


  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 48,202 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    zh, have you ever worked on olympus OM4Tis?
    mine is making a chirping noise when i insert batteries, or if not, when i fire the shutter, it sticks open till i set it back to B. not sure if they're worth fixing if the electronics are shot. which is a pity, they're a nice camera.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3 Irishwonkafan


    Make: Sigma

    Item: Lens

    Model: 24-70/2.8 EX DG

    Fault: Focus ring stuck

    When/how it happened: Taking a photograph I noticed it couldn't focus on the foreground. The focus ring was stopping at 5' and had only got the range from 5' - infinity. It wasn't dropped or didn't receive any bangs - just decided to stop. Initially I could get a little more movement if not a little noisy but then the movement stopped. It hasn't been forced. Hope you cna advise on costs to service/repair.


  • Registered Users Posts: 15 ajncam


    Make: Sony

    Item: Compact Camera

    Model: DSC-TX10

    Fault: The catch which holds the flap covering the charging and hdmi port on the side of the camera closed has broken.. pictures make it a little clearer..!
    DSC_0644.jpg

    download.jpg

    download2.jpg

    download1.jpg

    Below is the catch on the battery/sd card flap, which is what the other one should look like!

    download3.jpg

    download4.jpg


    When/how it happened: It happened in june 2011 and i have just used a bit of duck tape to keep the flap closed ever since but this obviously wont cut the mustard when i go looking to use it underwater later this summer! nothing specific happened as such, it just popped open one day, the piece that broke off is miniscule so can only presume there was a weakness in the plastic and it just gave up.

    It appears a simple enough fix and would be confident I could do it myself, getting a replacement part is where I hit a brick wall, hopefully someone here can help me over it!

    Thanks in advance,
    Andy


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,160 ✭✭✭Top Dog


    Zerohamster - your pm box has reached its limit so can't reply to you.

    What I was going to send -

    Thats perfectly ok :)

    I'm not in a panic about it - just curious to know what went wrong ;)

    Thanks


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,792 ✭✭✭zerohamster


    zh, have you ever worked on olympus OM4Tis?
    mine is making a chirping noise when i insert batteries, or if not, when i fire the shutter, it sticks open till i set it back to B. not sure if they're worth fixing if the electronics are shot. which is a pity, they're a nice camera.

    Sorry for the overly late reply,
    I haven't worked on any OM4Ti models but I have read that depending on what batteries you are using in them it can cause problems as more power is drawn during that part of the shutter/mirror cycle which can cause that behaviour so if you haven't already then try a different type of batteries as that may solve your problem.

    Chirping noise can be indicative of the battery being low also so if they are new batteries then check that there is no corrosion on the contacts.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,792 ✭✭✭zerohamster


    Make: Sigma

    Item: Lens

    Model: 24-70/2.8 EX DG

    Fault: Focus ring stuck

    When/how it happened: Taking a photograph I noticed it couldn't focus on the foreground. The focus ring was stopping at 5' and had only got the range from 5' - infinity. It wasn't dropped or didn't receive any bangs - just decided to stop. Initially I could get a little more movement if not a little noisy but then the movement stopped. It hasn't been forced. Hope you cna advise on costs to service/repair.

    It sounds like something has come loose inside the lens and is jamming movement from that range. If you want to fire me a PM I can give you more details on repair?


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