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Second Hand O/U what to check?

  • 22-11-2014 8:05pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 118 ✭✭


    I am presently considering purchasing a second hand over under for shooting clays with. Have been out and viewed a few guns over the last while, two in particular which I really liked and fitted me well.

    From visual appearances the guns seemed absolutely perfect however I am aware that I am new to this sport and could easily be looking over some key areas.

    Specifically what should I check or look for when viewing second hand guns?

    One of the guns is a Beretta and the opening lever is centrally aligned with the action when closed. On new Berettas the opening lever is very much right aligned. The gun is very tight but might this be a sign that there is limited wear left in the gun? Whatever I purchase I intend on keeping for a very long time.

    As always, thank you in advance for all the assistance.


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 396 ✭✭useurowname


    How to check the condition of a used shotgun (adapted from chuckhawks.com)

    1. Look at the overall condition of the shotgun. Notice the condition of the bluing, stock finish, checkering, butt plate or recoil pad, pistol grip cap, and so on. The action, trigger guard, tang, and forearm screws should be tight and the screw heads un-marred. Look for rust pitting on external metal surfaces. The gun doesn't have to be perfect in every area, but it should show care rather than neglect. A shotgun could be rough on the outside, yet perfect on the inside, but the chances are that an owner who didn't care for the external parts of a gun also didn't care for the parts you can't see.
    Look carefully down the external length of the barrel to see that it looks straight and there are no subtle bulges or dents. Don't buy any shotgun if you suspect that the barrel has been bulged, no matter how slightly, or is not straight.

    2. The stock fit is the most important feature of any shotgun. It should be long enough to keep the thumb of your grip hand away from your face under recoil, and short enough not to snag under your armpit when you shoulder the gun.

    3. Check the condition of the stock. There should not be any splits or cracks in the stock or forearm. Pay particular attention to the top and trigger guard tang areas, where recoil can cause hairline cracks to develop. Reject any shotgun that shows a crack or split in the stock. Scratches in the finish, worn checkering, and nicks in the stock will not affect the gun's function, but should lower the price.
    Also look for discolored wood at the back of the action, top and bottom. This is a sign of an excessively oiled gun, and the oil has softened the wood. This is bad if it seems extensive and may eventually require replacement of the stock.

    4. Get permission to dry fire the gun and check the trigger pull. Use dummy rounds or snap caps to protect the firing pins.

    5. Check the action. You will need a couple of snap caps to do this. Double guns should be tight when closed and the opening lever should be centered or to the right of center (when viewed from behind or with the gun at the shoulder). Top levers to the left of center indicate a worn action. Some actions can be adjusted to take up wear.
    Check the selective ejectors on double guns so equipped to insure that they eject the fired shell, but not the unfired shell. Ditto the single selective trigger on double guns. Again, use snap caps for this purpose.
    Make sure the safety works correctly--the gun should not fire with the safety on, and should fire with it off. This is true of all types of shotguns.

    6. Check the inside of the barrels. If dirty, ask that it be cleaned or for permission to clean it yourself. Do not oil the barrel after cleaning, and be suspicious of any barrel that has been oiled. The shine from the oil can hide minor barrel pitting and imperfections.
    Once the barrel is reasonably clean, dry, and oil free, open the action or remove the barrel and look into it from both ends. A small amount of rust or pitting inside the barrel will ordinarily not seriously degrade performance in a shotgun, but it should lower the used price.

    If the gun has interchangeable chokes, make sure that they can be screwed in and out, and that you get a full set. Usually this includes Full, Modified, and Improved Cylinder tubes. If the choke is fixed, see that there is some and that it at least roughly matches the amount of choke marked on the barrel.

    Best of luck.


  • Registered Users Posts: 52 ✭✭cork shooter


    Another thing that is often overlooked is parts availability in the event of a failure. I broke an ejector on my medalist some time back and was lucky to find a replacement . Original dealer I purchased from told me that parts can't be easily got and that it would'nt be worth having them finished from a raw blank due to the time involved. I bought the gun to a well known tipp gunsmith who managed to find a replacement . He said that not only medalist but lanber parts are also becoming difficult to get. Worth thinking about if considering any of these makers.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,616 ✭✭✭FISMA


    I always like the shake test, for any firearm I buy.

    Give it a good shake and see what rattles.

    True, there will be some rattles, even on a new firearm. But the less, the better and any rattle should be investigated.

    Check the fit and finish, is the stock cracked? Evidence of repairs?

    How does the barrel look? Any dings? Is the end of the barrel scuffed? Is the bluing consistent or does it looked to have been retouched?

    When fired, do the pins protude from the action? Can you push either back with ease?

    How about the ejectors? Give them a wiggle. Bring a long a fired case and see if they go in and out properly. I once had a shotgun then when closed, a loose ejector allowed the cartridge to slip under the ejector, getting wedged in.

    Chokes? Make sure they come out and check the threads.

    Is the bead/sight tight?

    Other than that, go with your gut and first impressions.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 213 ✭✭270WIN


    I am presently considering purchasing a second hand over under for shooting clays with. Have been out and viewed a few guns over the last while, two in particular which I really liked and fitted me well.

    From visual appearances the guns seemed absolutely perfect however I am aware that I am new to this sport and could easily be looking over some key areas.

    Specifically what should I check or look for when viewing second hand guns?

    One of the guns is a Beretta and the opening lever is centrally aligned with the action when closed. On new Berettas the opening lever is very much right aligned. The gun is very tight but might this be a sign that there is limited wear left in the gun? Whatever I purchase I intend on keeping for a very long time.

    As always, thank you in advance for all the assistance.

    You wont go too far wrong with a Beretta...the top lever moves to the centre soon enough on new ones and they still remain tight for years..you will know by the look of it if it was well minded...if there are scratches/ dents/ rust spots , then it probably was not well minded....Never a problem with Beretta parts..then again you wont ever need em!


  • Registered Users Posts: 118 ✭✭thedavman009


    Many thanks for all the advice. I feel far more confident that I wont buy a dud now.


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