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How to service your car

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Comments

  • #272
    davehey79
    Registered Users Posts: 1,572 ✭✭✭davehey79


    lads i hav a 99 h/b bug eyed corolla, the timing belt was done at 132,00 miles and the car is now nearly at 155,00 miles when would anyone here thats in the know reccomend changing the timing belt as i wouldnt have a notion. did a mini service myself but timing belt know how is a no no


  • #273
    leeomurchu
    Site Banned Posts: 957 ✭✭✭leeomurchu


    davehey79 wrote: »
    lads i hav a 99 h/b bug eyed corolla, the timing belt was done at 132,00 miles and the car is now nearly at 155,00 miles when would anyone here thats in the know reccomend changing the timing belt as i wouldnt have a notion. did a mini service myself but timing belt know how is a no no

    Another 20k before you'll be needing a belt change I think. they're usually good for 40-50k


  • #274
    Nissan doctor
    Closed Accounts Posts: 8,223 ✭✭✭Nissan doctor


    davehey79 wrote: »
    lads i hav a 99 h/b bug eyed corolla, the timing belt was done at 132,00 miles and the car is now nearly at 155,00 miles when would anyone here thats in the know reccomend changing the timing belt as i wouldnt have a notion. did a mini service myself but timing belt know how is a no no


    Every 60,000 miles OR 5 years so you'll need to know how long ago it was changed as well.


  • #275
    pappyodaniel
    Registered Users Posts: 5,716 ✭✭✭pappyodaniel


    I recently done an oil/air filter and oil change on my E30 and it all went well. Saved myself well over €100 doing it myself and being my first time to do so, it was very satisfying.

    Now one specific question regarding the E30.
    How do I reset the service lights on the dashboard? It's an early 1985 model 320 automatic Cabriolet. I'd say it's something to do with the diagnostic but I'm a complete noob when it comes to auto electrics/mechanics.

    Any help would be well appreciated.


  • #276
    Slidey
    Closed Accounts Posts: 12,811 ✭✭✭✭Slidey


    I remember doing this before. Had a quick look online and what you need is here


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  • #277
    pappyodaniel
    Registered Users Posts: 5,716 ✭✭✭pappyodaniel


    Slidey wrote: »
    I remember doing this before. Had a quick look online and what you need is here

    Sound.

    So just a small piece of electrical wire attached to the right connectors. That sounds easy. Thanks Slidey.


  • #278
    JJJJNR
    Closed Accounts Posts: 4,791 ✭✭✭JJJJNR


    Car: Seat Altea 2.0TDi
    Year: 2005
    KM's: 253,000

    Issue: I have upgraded my front brakes to 312mm disk and calipers from a Mk5 GTI I used the old pads from the original 288mm setup but now there is a 10mm groove going around the disks? do I need to change the pad's to the same size..?


  • #279
    joujoujou
    Registered Users Posts: 13,499 ✭✭✭✭joujoujou
    Unregistered Users


    Yep, get the pads for Mk5 GTI.


  • #280
    Nissan doctor
    Closed Accounts Posts: 8,223 ✭✭✭Nissan doctor


    JJJJNR wrote: »
    Car: Seat Altea 2.0TDi
    Year: 2005
    KM's: 253,000

    Issue: I have upgraded my front brakes to 312mm disk and calipers from a Mk5 GTI I used the old pads from the original 288mm setup but now there is a 10mm groove going around the disks? do I need to change the pad's to the same size..?

    :confused: Why would you not have used GTI pads too? Brake pads are matched to the disks.


  • #281
    Ronnie Beck
    Closed Accounts Posts: 1,452 ✭✭✭Ronnie Beck


    JJJJNR wrote: »
    Car: Seat Altea 2.0TDi
    Year: 2005
    KM's: 253,000

    Issue: I have upgraded my front brakes to 312mm disk and calipers from a Mk5 GTI I used the old pads from the original 288mm setup but now there is a 10mm groove going around the disks? do I need to change the pad's to the same size..?

    You might want to change the discs again too if the smaller pads have cut a decent track into them.


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  • #282
    JJJJNR
    Closed Accounts Posts: 4,791 ✭✭✭JJJJNR


    offline for a few days, the track isn't too bad its hardly noticeable, but its there anyway, i'm fitting the rear calipers/disk/pads and will change the front pads also, the fronts pads fitted very flush with the caliper so didn't think there would be an issue, hope they haven't gone too far !.


  • #283
    monkeysnapper
    Registered Users Posts: 2,575 ✭✭✭monkeysnapper


    Can I ask a silly question. When changing oil how much roughly should I be putting back in. I have a Audi a4 1.9 tdi 2003 . I'm going to scare the life out of myself and do a oil change by my self.

    Last year I decided to buy some clippers and groom my own dogs and got away with it saving myself a small fortune on my 3 dogs so I reakon I'm defo qualified in trying to do a oil change :)


  • #284
    Harcrid
    Registered Users Posts: 1,302 ✭✭✭Harcrid


    At least the car wont squirm around on you trying to run away while you work on it... :-)


  • #285
    biko
    Registered Users Posts: 81,223 ✭✭✭✭biko


    monkeysnapper wrote: »
    Can I ask a silly question. When changing oil how much roughly should I be putting back in. I have a Audi a4 1.9 tdi 2003
    I think that car takes 4.5 litres total (it's in the manual if you have one) but not all oil will leave the system during the drain.
    Buy 5 litres and after having drained the old oil and changed the filter put the car down on the ground (make sure you put sump plug back).
    Then fill with about 3 litres or so and check the dip stick. Fill a bit more and check. Keep doing this until you've hit the right mark on the stick.
    Keep the rest of the oil and check the level the next morning, you may have to top up a bit more.

    There's vids on youtube on how to do the change, watch a few to get the hang of it.


  • #286
    BUBBLE WRAP
    Closed Accounts Posts: 4,186 ✭✭✭BUBBLE WRAP


    biko wrote: »
    I think that car takes 4.5 litres total (it's in the manual if you have one) but not all oil will leave the system during the drain.
    Buy 5 litres and after having drained the old oil and changed the filter put the car down on the ground (make sure you put sump plug back).
    Then fill with about 3 litres or so and check the dip stick. Fill a bit more and check. Keep doing this until you've hit the right mark on the stick.
    Keep the rest of the oil and check the level the next morning, you may have to top up a bit more.

    There's vids on youtube on how to do the change, watch a few to get the hang of it.

    That's good advice there. But just to ad, it's also good to have the car on an even level. other wise if it's on a slope the dipstick won't give as good of a reading.


  • #287
    Esel
    Registered Users Posts: 22,002 ✭✭✭✭Esel


    BUBBLE WRAP wrote: »
    That's good advice there. But just to ad, it's also good to have the car on an even level. other wise if it's on a slope the dipstick won't give as good of a reading.
    Good advice alright.

    Remember though to allow a few minutes for the new oil to drain into the sump before checking the level. Also, after you are happy with the level, run the engine for a couple of minutes then check the level again (after waiting for the oil to drain back to the sump again).

    Not your ornery onager



  • #288
    BUBBLE WRAP
    Closed Accounts Posts: 4,186 ✭✭✭BUBBLE WRAP


    Esel wrote: »
    Good advice alright.

    Remember though to allow a few minutes for the new oil to drain into the sump before checking the level. Also, after you are happy with the level, run the engine for a couple of minutes then check the level again (after waiting for the oil to drain back to the sump again).

    Yup, that's also a very important point.


  • #289
    monkeysnapper
    Registered Users Posts: 2,575 ✭✭✭monkeysnapper


    I watched a few vids on this and read articles and the one thing it said in one that didnt say in all the others was when your rubbing oil on the seal of oil filter ,not to use the old oil but rub fresh oil.

    I was going to do service today but weather was so bad i put it off. Im feeling confident enough but a small bit worried about if i cant get the oil filter off.

    Ive seen people saying smack a skrewdriver through it but that sounds like a knightmere waiting to happen. ill use a clean pair of rubbers for grip and if that doesnt work ....uuughhh ill just cry i think


  • #290
    Hal1
    Registered Users Posts: 8,720 ✭✭✭Hal1


    Just have a bit of faith and plan each step in advance. Have a container at the ready to collect the waste oil, a funnel might be a good idea for draining and filling. Get an oil filter wrench from your motor factors it will save a lot of swearing. I've been at one before with a screw driver on an old golf and it took an eternity to remove it, bits of it were everywhere :D.


  • #291
    Esel
    Registered Users Posts: 22,002 ✭✭✭✭Esel


    monkeysnapper wrote: »
    I watched a few vids on this and read articles and the one thing it said in one that didn't say in all the others was if you're rubbing oil on the seal of oil filter, not to use the old oil but rub fresh oil.
    Not if, but when...
    monkeysnapper wrote: »
    I was going to do service today but weather was so bad I put it off. I'm feeling confident enough but a small bit worried about if I can't get the oil filter off.

    I've seen people saying smack a screwdriver through it but that sounds like a nightmare waiting to happen. I'll use a clean pair of rubbers for grip and if that doesn't work ....uuughhh I'll just cry I think
    Are you talking about rubber gloves? Good luck with that! Apart from the heat, I don't think you will loosen a cartridge filter by hand. Buy yourself a decent removal tool - You'll be using it again and again (hopefully).

    Not your ornery onager



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  • #292
    Mr. Wong
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 221 ✭✭Mr. Wong


    Atlantic Dawn wrote: »
    I'd recommend getting a different tool for removing the filter, there's various types on the market and some will be suited more to your car. In the past I used the chain wrench but find the band one best for my car.

    http://www.halfords.ie/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_11101_catalogId_15551_productId_209641_langId_-1_categoryId_212616
    http://www.halfords.ie/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_11101_catalogId_15551_productId_525159_langId_-1_categoryId_212616
    http://www.halfords.ie/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_11101_catalogId_15551_productId_525117_langId_-1_categoryId_212616
    http://www.halfords.ie/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_11101_catalogId_15551_productId_199193_categoryId_212616_langId_-1?cm_sp=Intelligent_Offer-_-Product_List_Zone_1-_-Blank&iozone=PLPz1
    monkeysnapper wrote: »
    I watched a few vids on this and read articles and the one thing it said in one that didnt say in all the others was if your rubbing oil on the seal of oil filter ,not to use the old oil but rub fresh oil.

    I was going to do service today but weather was so bad i put it off. Im feeling confident enough but a small bit worried about if i cant get the oil filter off.

    Ive seen people saying smack a skrewdriver through it but that sounds like a knightmere waiting to happen. ill use a clean pair of rubbers for grip and if that doesnt work ....uuughhh ill just cry i think
    ;)


  • #293
    nct tester
    Closed Accounts Posts: 361 ✭✭nct tester


    monkeysnapper wrote: »
    I watched a few vids on this and read articles and the one thing it said in one that didnt say in all the others was when your rubbing oil on the seal of oil filter ,not to use the old oil but rub fresh oil.

    I was going to do service today but weather was so bad i put it off. Im feeling confident enough but a small bit worried about if i cant get the oil filter off.

    Ive seen people saying smack a skrewdriver through it but that sounds like a knightmere waiting to happen. ill use a clean pair of rubbers for grip and if that doesnt work ....uuughhh ill just cry i think


    id say there's a paper filter on your car so putting a screwdriver through it would be a bad choice.


  • #294
    Ronnie Beck
    Closed Accounts Posts: 1,452 ✭✭✭Ronnie Beck


    nct tester wrote: »
    [/B]

    id say there's a paper filter on your car so putting a screwdriver through it would be a bad choice.

    +1

    Them 1.9 tdi's require a cup to remove the filter housing. Like this: http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_199193_langId_-1_categoryId_255216

    You have to reuse the outer housing and just replace the paper insert.

    You will also need a ratchet to operate the cup.


  • #295
    monkeysnapper
    Registered Users Posts: 2,575 ✭✭✭monkeysnapper


    Ronnie Beck wrote: »
    +1

    Them 1.9 tdi's require a cup to remove the filter housing. Like this: http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_199193_langId_-1_categoryId_255216

    You have to reuse the outer housing and just replace the paper insert.

    You will also need a ratchet to operate the cup.

    i bought the filter remover but not this one.

    I just want to add a few things that i didnt see to much in this thread.

    My audi a4 2003 has plastic covers all under the body, has very little gap just by wheels to jack up car for say punchures, but not enough room to chuck in a axle stand so im having to look into this.

    Even when i jacked up car on full jack on my trolley jack i still didnt have enough room to put axle stands in. i suppose i should raise trollet jack up a little. (maybe??)

    I saw on a site that you shouldn't raise one side with a axle stand leaving other side down . you should raise whole front of car in centre and put in axle stands on each side.

    i think ive looked into this to much now and the dreaded internet has just confused me.

    Ive got some wheels to put under cars wheels as insurance once i got car up. I just need a little more advice before i under go my challenge.


  • #296
    Slidey
    Closed Accounts Posts: 12,811 ✭✭✭✭Slidey


    You could just drive the car up on to a few blocks of wood. It's what I always did


  • #297
    Peanut2011
    Registered Users Posts: 1,001 ✭✭✭Peanut2011


    monkeysnapper wrote: »
    Can I ask a silly question. When changing oil how much roughly should I be putting back in. I have a Audi a4 1.9 tdi 2003 .

    I'd say you are better off consulting a car manual for that. I would also say it depends if you are changing the oil filter or not.


  • #298
    Slidey
    Closed Accounts Posts: 12,811 ✭✭✭✭Slidey


    Peanut2011 wrote: »

    I'd say you are better off consulting a car manual for that. I would also say it depends if you are changing the oil filter or not.
    No need to consult a car manual.

    Of course he is going to change the oil filter, it's pretty pointless otherwise, the paper element is about €8

    If he buys a gallon of oil he will have some left over


  • #299
    harg90
    Registered Users Posts: 134 ✭✭harg90


    Peanut2011 wrote: »
    I'd say you are better off consulting a car manual for that. I would also say it depends if you are changing the oil filter or not.

    why on earth would you change the iol and not the filter?

    do people realise that a full service entails ALOT more than just an engine service?


  • #300
    Ilik Urgee
    Closed Accounts Posts: 1,430 ✭✭✭Ilik Urgee


    The service reminder light is on in my own car,850 miles til service due. It's going in for an NCT on Friday. Will it fail because of the warning light?

    Didn't see the need to start a new thread so apologies if it's not allowed here.


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  • #301
    Ded_Zebra
    Registered Users Posts: 4,792 ✭✭✭Ded_Zebra


    Ilik Urgee wrote: »
    The service reminder light is on in my own car,850 miles til service due. It's going in for an NCT on Friday. Will it fail because of the warning light?

    Didn't see the need to start a new thread so apologies if it's not allowed here.

    Won't be an issue but, something might be found when the car is being serviced that would be a failure. The light will not be an issue :)


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