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How to service your car

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Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 55 ✭✭clonagam


    Volvoboy wrote: »
    Donned the jump suit today and set about giving a the 'auld girl a service, in liew of the recent thread ''Can you change oil in your car'' thought i'd take a few pics of what to do.

    You will need:
    • Oil
    • Draining bucket (or cut out a side of a old oil bottle)
    • 1/2 inch drive socket set (selection of sockets from 10mm to 21mm)
    • Funnel (or 7up bottle)
    • Airfilter
    • Oilfilter
    • Jack (in every car)
    • Spark plugs
    • Rags

    The Service Kit
    http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg179/volvoboy744/DSC00342.jpg
    Run the car for 5 mins as hot oil drains out of the car much quicker than cold Oil. Turn off the engine after, if you run the car without any engine oil it will seize and you'll need a new engine!

    Jack the car up, locate the sump and oil filter, undo the sump nut so you can take it off by hand be carefull not to drop the sump plug into the hot oil
    http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg179/volvoboy744/DSC00365.jpg
    http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg179/volvoboy744/DSC00348.jpg
    http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg179/volvoboy744/DSC00344.jpg
    http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg179/volvoboy744/DSC00346.jpg
    http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg179/volvoboy744/DSC00347.jpg
    http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg179/volvoboy744/DSC00350.jpg
    http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg179/volvoboy744/DSC00351.jpg
    http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg179/volvoboy744/DSC00352.jpg
    http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg179/volvoboy744/DSC00354.jpg
    http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg179/volvoboy744/DSC00364.jpg
    http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg179/volvoboy744/DSC00356.jpg
    http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg179/volvoboy744/DSC00358.jpg
    http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg179/volvoboy744/DSC00360.jpg
    http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg179/volvoboy744/DSC00362.jpg
    While the oil is draining, undo the oil filter, you can use many ways to get the oil filter off straps, or by hammering a screwdriver though the filter, because my last oil change was 5790miles ago i can get it off with my hand.

    When all of the oil is gone from the engine tighten the sump plug back up and check that the new oil filter is the same as the old one what you're looking for is if they are a diffrent size.

    Before ya put the new oilfilter in place smear a small bit of oil around the rubber gasket on the filter, this assures no leaks. And its advisable to clean up excess oil from around the engine.

    Drop the car from the jack (very important you do this if you were to change the oil on a uneven surface it could give you a misreading when you check the oil).

    If you havent got a funnel take a 7up bottle and a angle grinder and make a home made one!!!

    Slowly pour the new oil into the engine occasionally check to make sure that you dont over fill the engine. When you are finished tighten up the filler cap back in place and start the engine (DONT REV THE ENGINE)

    And thats it for the oil change, keep the remaining oil in the container and in the boot of your car.

    I note that you did not mention changing the sump plug washer as often recommended in the manuals. I am ambivalent about doing this myself. I have renewed it (but rarely) and I haven't suffered any leaks when I didn't.


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,792 ✭✭✭Ded_Zebra


    clonagam wrote: »
    I note that you did not mention changing the sump plug washer as often recommended in the manuals. I am ambivalent about doing this myself. I have renewed it (but rarely) and I haven't suffered any leaks when I didn't.

    Never replaced one in my life. Never had a leak. Never plan on replacing one :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 81,111 ✭✭✭✭Atlantic Dawn
    M


    Ded_Zebra wrote: »
    Never replaced one in my life. Never had a leak. Never plan on replacing one :)

    I always replace mine but looking at what comes off looking basically like brand new it's possibly overkill every single service but at sub €2 a go I don't risk it :o


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,259 ✭✭✭..Brian..


    I didn't the last time I did an oil change and subsequently ended up with about 20 palm sized oil stains dotted around my yard! For the sake of a few quid I think it's worth it.


  • Registered Users Posts: 55 ✭✭clonagam


    ..Brian.. wrote: »
    I didn't the last time I did an oil change and subsequently ended up with about 20 palm sized oil stains dotted around my yard! For the sake of a few quid I think it's worth it.

    For the record, where do you buy the replacement washers?. I bought some in Halfords but they didn't fit. Do you go to the main dealers and ask just for a sump washer?

    The problem is that you need to have the washer in advance of the job. Otherwise, you have to bring the sump bolt along, delaying the whole job.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,881 ✭✭✭shietpilot


    clonagam wrote: »
    For the record, where do you buy the replacement washers?. I bought some in Halfords but they didn't fit. Do you go to the main dealers and ask just for a sump washer?

    The problem is that you need to have the washer in advance of the job. Otherwise, you have to bring the sump bolt along, delaying the whole job.

    MicksGarage, motor factors or dealer will have them handy. Different cars have different washers, some aluminium some rubber.


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,861 ✭✭✭fancy pigeon


    2 options:
    • Use old washer with PTFE on the plug
    • Use a dowty washer

    Never leak again


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,296 ✭✭✭FortySeven


    Popping a screwdriver through the oil filter to aid removal can be problematic. A friend of mine tried this on a Lexus and turned up at my house in need of bigger tools.

    Que 5 hours of trying to remove a mangled, sharp edged mess that was firmly stuck and now covered in oil to boot. Access was poor and it turned into a real clusterf#ck.

    The right tool is inexpensive and can save much work.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,881 ✭✭✭shietpilot


    2 options:
    • Use old washer with PTFE on the plug
    • Use a dowty washer

    Never leak again

    No! :( I removed a 15 cm length of teflon tape from a sump before after unscrewing the sump plug. You don't want that :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,861 ✭✭✭fancy pigeon


    shietpilot wrote: »
    No! :( I removed a 15 cm length of teflon tape from a sump before after unscrewing the sump plug. You don't want that :)

    Yes! You had some arsehole who put on too much/put it on the wrong way/not a clue how to use PTFE/all the aforemantioned...

    How do I manage where others don't/can't?! :)

    The way to look at it is, if one cannot use the tools/equipment correctly then don't follow my advice... Simple!

    I'll keep my trade secrets to myself ;)


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,881 ✭✭✭shietpilot


    Yes! You had some arsehole who put on too much/put it on the wrong way/not a clue how to use PTFE/all the aforemantioned...

    How do I manage where others don't/can't?! :)

    The way to look at it is, if one cannot use the tools/equipment correctly then don't follow my advice... Simple!

    I'll keep my trade secrets to myself ;)

    That's true in fairness. A tool is only as good as the user :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 39 padger


    I'm going to sell my 2004 Leon but am going to do the brake pads first, I looked online at prices for the pads and they go from around €18 upwards and seem to vary alot..which ones should I get? I don't want to spend much really,looked at apec brands and brakefit


  • Registered Users Posts: 81,223 ✭✭✭✭biko


    I'd go with Mintex or Delphi
    Get a known brand, no need to be cheap on things like this for the sake of a few euros.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 1,648 ✭✭✭Autochange


    padger wrote: »
    I'm going to sell my 2004 Leon but am going to do the brake pads first, I looked online at prices for the pads and they go from around €18 upwards and seem to vary alot..which ones should I get? I don't want to spend much really,looked at apec brands and brakefit
    repairs of vehicles should be regulated imo. Suppose you replace the pads on your car, sell it and the repair fails because something isn't fitted or tightened correctly. Suppose the new owner crashes and hurts or kills somenone. You my friend will find yourself in court and most likely prison


  • Registered Users Posts: 81,111 ✭✭✭✭Atlantic Dawn
    M


    Autochange wrote: »
    repairs of vehicles should be regulated imo. Suppose you replace the pads on your car, sell it and the repair fails because something isn't fitted or tightened correctly. Suppose the new owner crashes and hurts or kills somenone. You my friend will find yourself in court and most likely prison

    Can you point to a single documented case in Ireland where someone incorrectly fitted brake pads and it caused injury or death to someone?


  • Registered Users Posts: 73,381 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    If you're selling, throw any old shiite from micksgarage on it. You won't see the extra money back in the sale price,


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,881 ✭✭✭shietpilot


    All brake pads on sale on MicksGarage will comply with the ECE R90 standard which means they are tested and compared to OEM pads and are of similar standard so I don't see any problem in using the cheapest pads. Obviously the cheaper pads may cause more brake dust or screech but they will do the job just fine.


  • Registered Users Posts: 54 ✭✭btmp75


    My apologies first if this is a wrong thread to post this. I tried / started another thread with this. but no use. Thats why Posting this here.

    98 Toyota Hiace door lock problem

    I have an old Hiace -98. Now both the Passenger side and Driver side door locks not working. Actually Can't lock with key and passenger side door can't lock from inside too. Tried to remove the lock. But couldn't. Any help to show how to remove lock barrel from the doors step by step will be greatly appreciated. Unfortunately couldn't find any videos in YouTube. Here some who knows things have a chance to make a popular video.


  • Registered Users Posts: 81,223 ✭✭✭✭biko


    Hi btmp75, you already have a thread in the forum for this query. Please don't post more than once. If someone can help they will respond in the dedicated thread.
    http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2057731325


  • Registered Users Posts: 54 ✭✭btmp75


    biko wrote: »
    Hi btmp75, you already have a thread in the forum for this query. Please don't post more than once. If someone can help they will respond in the dedicated thread.
    http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2057731325

    Yes. I already have a thread. But no response.That's why I posted it here. I already stated it here and apologised for doing that. Didn't want to post again.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 14,329 ✭✭✭✭jimmycrackcorm


    biko wrote:
    I'd go with Mintex or Delphi Get a known brand, no need to be cheap on things like this for the sake of a few euros.

    Out of interest, are pads difficult to replace? I've done oil, filters, plugs, but am wary of pads because of the safety aspect.


  • Registered Users Posts: 24,647 ✭✭✭✭punisher5112


    Out of interest, are pads difficult to replace? I've done oil, filters, plugs, but am wary of pads because of the safety aspect.

    No not difficult at all once correct tools and always remember method of removing and in reverse putting back ensure locking pin is correctly placed back.

    Get some copper grease for rear of pads and steel wool or brush to clean out the build up in calliper. Not essential but will help.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,164 ✭✭✭DANNY2014


    Anyone on here reckon this is a good deal for anyone who is gonna start servicing there own vehicles...

    https://www.micksgarage.com/d/car-jacks-ramps-and-axle-stands/products/3151909/diy-mechanic-car-lift-kit-inc-jack-axle-stands-and-wheel-chocks


  • Registered Users Posts: 39 padger


    Looks good..i got axle stands in Lidl a while back and they did the job


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,164 ✭✭✭DANNY2014


    It's a decent enough price as far as I can make out... Just handy to get the whole set as one... that's my thinking anyways...


  • Registered Users Posts: 692 ✭✭✭breadbin


    Looks like a great price but only if it fits your car. Is the 1.5 tonne strong enough? It should be but maybe not.

    And I got one and had to return it for a 'low profile' version. Even the low profile one rubs off the front skirt and the car isn't even lowered. It's a stock corolla t-sport! Just something to be mindful about.


  • Registered Users Posts: 14,906 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    This one isn't much more and has a creeper and a wheel wrench.
    http://www.halfords.ie/workshop-tools/garage-workshop/trolley-jacks/halfords-5-piece-lifting-kit


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,164 ✭✭✭DANNY2014


    WEIGHT SPECIFICATIONS
    Unladen Weight2667.6 lbs OR 1210 kgGross Weight Limit3957.3 lbs OR 1795 kg

    Should be sound enough with that kit from micksgarage...


  • Registered Users Posts: 14,906 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    DANNY2014 wrote: »
    WEIGHT SPECIFICATIONS
    Unladen Weight2667.6 lbs OR 1210 kgGross Weight Limit3957.3 lbs OR 1795 kg

    Should be sound enough with that kit from micksgarage...

    I am sure it will do, what are you going to lie on under the car?:D
    I have used carpet, cardboard and old foam mats but I would strongly advise a creeper if you can stretch to it, its a lot handier on the body.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,164 ✭✭✭DANNY2014


    CJhaughey wrote: »
    I am sure it will do, what are you going to lie on under the car?:D
    I have used carpet, cardboard and old foam mats but I would strongly advise a creeper if you can stretch to it, its a lot handier on the body.

    Have a part off an old workout bench... Mite jus put a few wheels on it and should do the trick...


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