Chain replacement failure.

funkey_monkey · 02-03-2014 7:27pm #1

I've tried to replace my chain for the first time and through lack of attention I've removed the excess length at the end with the link to join the chain.

Is there any way to resolve this problem with a limited amount of tools or is the chain scrap?

funkey_monkey · 02-03-2014 7:29pm

Do I buy another master link and take another link out to cater for this?

Brian? · 02-03-2014 7:34pm

Can't you break the chain again and replace some of the links removed?

funkey_monkey · 02-03-2014 8:47pm

Recovered parts from the bin and doing that now. Frustrating and embarrassing

Brian? · 02-03-2014 8:52pm

I hope you've learned a lesson: never throw anything away! No matter what, a few chain links can be handy.

funkey_monkey · 02-03-2014 11:16pm

Got it on now. A bit of a palava. My method in the end was to tie the jockey wheel/tensioner to the rear frame in order to relieve some of the tension on the chain to allow me to join the links. Once I figured this out it was plain sailing.

However, it now seems that the chain is still jumping teeth on the rear cogs. I should say that alongside replacing the chain, I've replaced the freewheel with a similar size/spec from the same manufacturer.

I'm guessing the problem is actually one of two things:
1. Rear derailleur needs adjustment
2. Front cog is worn out and needs replacement

Is 1. the more likely? Front and rear were replaced at the same time previously, but only replaced rear this time. I thought tensioner would have negated the effect of a worn front cog on the rear arrangement? I checked both freewheels and the did not appear to be any variance that I could detect by eye in the alignment of the cogs on the freewheel.

I should say that the check was performed with the bike upside down and no load on it. It is too late to try a proper test run.

Any ideas/suggestions appreciated.

Wishbone Ash · 03-03-2014 10:12am

funkey_monkey wrote: »

....My method in the end was to tie the jockey wheel/tensioner to the rear frame in order to relieve some of the tension on the chain to allow me to join the links. ...

You can make a little simple home made tool to relieve chain tension. Get a wire coat hanger (eg from dry cleaning). Cut off about 10cms on the straight bit and then bend about 1cm at a right angle at each end with a pliers. The end pieces can be inserted into adjoining links to take the tension off the part you are working on.

(Also useful to take in the saddle bag to lift or manipulate the chain if it comes off preventing oily hands.

)

mirrormatrix · 03-03-2014 10:26am

Is it just jumping at the broken link? Did you flex the chain laterally at the link(s) you rejoined after putting the chain together? You will usually have a bit of stiffnes in the link after it is rejoined. Flexing the chain frees this up.

funkey_monkey · 03-03-2014 2:55pm

Yes, the chain is flexing correctly - I made sure of this after noticing that my practice attempts on the excess chain caused stiff links.

Lumen · 03-03-2014 3:03pm

funkey_monkey wrote: »

Got it on now. A bit of a palava. My method in the end was to tie the jockey wheel/tensioner to the rear frame in order to relieve some of the tension on the chain to allow me to join the links

Would you not just pop it off the chainring?

tomasrojo · 03-03-2014 3:37pm

In addition to coat hangers, a big paper clip is a good basis for a device to stop the rear derailleur from pulling the two ends of the chain apart before you've finished. Straighten out, clip off excess and shape as described above.

funkey_monkey · 31-03-2014 12:32pm

Follow up question: since this I've replaced the chain and freewheel. However, even though I can get the indexing to be very close to perfection when unloaded (to tension on the chain) it does not index correctly when I am cycling on it - the tension and torque that the chain is applying to the rear mech seems to prohibit it from indexing on the smaller cogs.

It seems to still index pretty well on cogs 1 - 3, but progressively worse as it goes outboard from cog 3. Most of this time it will not shift onto cog 6 unless the bike goes over a bump or I index back to cog 3/4 and then rapidly shift upto cog 6.

Can this be adjusted out or is it a cable or rear mech issue?

Hmmzis · 31-03-2014 1:13pm

Wishbone Ash wrote: »

You can make a little simple home made tool to relieve chain tension. Get a wire coat hanger (eg from dry cleaning). Cut off about 10cms on the straight bit and then bend about 1cm at a right angle at each end with a pliers. The end pieces can be inserted into adjoining links to take the tension off the part you are working on.

(Also useful to take in the saddle bag to lift or manipulate the chain if it comes off preventing oily hands. )

How about just popping out the rear wheel and leaving the chain in the small ring? That should leave enough slack in the chain for the RD to be of no concern anymore.

07Lapierre · 31-03-2014 1:16pm

funkey_monkey wrote: »

Follow up question: since this I've replaced the chain and freewheel. However, even though I can get the indexing to be very close to perfection when unloaded (to tension on the chain) it does not index correctly when I am cycling on it - the tension and torque that the chain is applying to the rear mech seems to prohibit it from indexing on the smaller cogs.

It seems to still index pretty well on cogs 1 - 3, but progressively worse as it goes outboard from cog 3. Most of this time it will not shift onto cog 6 unless the bike goes over a bump or I index back to cog 3/4 and then rapidly shift upto cog 6.

Can this be adjusted out or is it a cable or rear mech issue?

yes it could...how old is the mech? if it was my bike, I'd replace the cable (inner cable and outer casing) and try it. If it still doesn't index correctly, replace the mech.

Examine the mech. is there any sideways "play" when you hold the mech body and move the jockey wheel cage in and out? (there shouldn't be - the cage should only move in-line with the chain)

funkey_monkey · 01-04-2014 3:52pm

Mech is about 10 years old - same as bike. Both it and cable are original.

Scrappy600 · 01-04-2014 5:57pm

Wishbone Ash wrote: »

You can make a little simple home made tool to relieve chain tension. Get a wire coat hanger (eg from dry cleaning). Cut off about 10cms on the straight bit and then bend about 1cm at a right angle at each end with a pliers. The end pieces can be inserted into adjoining links to take the tension off the part you are working on.

(Also useful to take in the saddle bag to lift or manipulate the chain if it comes off preventing oily hands. )

+1
Saved my bacon three quarter way to the top of rostrevor last month when the chain snapped. Coin in pic for size ref.

funkey_monkey · 02-04-2014 2:48pm

I take it that the best value is to buy a new rear mech and cable & sheath and just get it all done. I can get a Shimano reach mech for approx £10.

Is there any differences in cables to be aware of - I see some are galvanised etc...

funkey_monkey · 08-04-2014 10:07pm

Okay, I'm going to bite the bullet and buy a new cable and rear mech.

Is there any reason why these would not be wise to purchase. My bike is a 12 year old Giant GSR.

My bike currently has a rear mech that looks simlar to this item:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SHIMANO-TY18-SIS-REAR-DERAILLEUR-GEAR-MECH-SUIT-6-12-18-SPEED-MOUNTAINBIKE-ATB-/181362634909

However, I thought about upgrading it to the following:
http://www.evanscycles.com/products/shimano/tourney-tx55-rear-derailleur-direct-mount-6-7-speed-ec042720?country=GB&currency=GBP&utm_content=mkwid__pcrid_31998555896_kword__match__plid_&gclid=CPHZlJTh0b0CFQkEwwodmp4ALw#reviews

However, I'm not sure if it would be a suitable replacement - or indeed if there is something slightly more expensive that would give better shifting.

I believe that I need to be carefulw ith the actuation ratio (?) as SRAM are 1:1 whereas Shimano are 2:1, correct?

In terms of cabling I planned on opting for this:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shimano-mtb-gear-cable-set/rp-prod71582

Am I on the right path here?

funkey_monkey · 13-04-2014 1:06pm

Is there any difference between cables that are advertised as pre lubed and those which are not advertised as such?

I was looking at:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Clarks-Universal-Gear-Kit-Stainless-Steel-Shimano-and-Campagnolo-BLACK-/301006577257?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&hash=item461563de69

IT does not note whether it is lubed or not, whereas the following do state this:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shimano-mtb-gear-cable-set/rp-prod71582

Outer casing is lubricated internally along its length with low-friction silicone grease to reduce cable friction

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/clarks-elite-pre-lube-universal-gear-kit/rp-prod59214

front and rear Pre-lube gear wires

Do the basic types need to be oiled during installation? Imight try oiling it with chain oil first to see if that makes a difference, qlong with the derailleur pivot points.

Chain replacement failure.

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