[mrjoneill]

Originally Posted by M cebee

in fairness the manuals are light on information when it comes to holding the drill properly

i flicked through 4 or 5 manuals a few days back


they mostly say to grip the handle and loss of control could cause injury


anyone using drills regularly will already know this


what's the legal requirement on information?

The issue with me is that the power drill I was using that caused me the injury it’s beyond the bounds of possibility to hold it using the handles on it when it kicks back. Its kickback force is in the region of 770 ft-lbs/ sec in a twisting action off ones center of gravity and as I posted my last drill was rated 750W and I used it for yrs without incident and there is no comparison in the kickback power using this drill and the one that caused me the injury. And as I have posted I have spoken to construction workers who use power tools and they all spoke of having incidents with such power drills and the fear they have of such power tools.

[Kevin Irving]

What's ft-lbs /sec? Torque per Second? I don't think that really makes much sense. Or do you mean the torque on your arm ramps up at that speed?

I think most people have had at least one hairy moment with power tools, but you learn. By their very nature, they can cause injury and you have to follow the correct procedure when using them. This obviously varies from case to case, and you can't expect a manual to incorporate this.

Happenned to me too, when using a standard drill bit to counter sink a hole. I can't go blaming Makita for my lack of experience. I know now though, to use a countersinking bit because a normal bit will dig in, jam, and twist my arm.

[Cuddlesworth]

Originally Posted by mrjoneill

1050 is the rating of the power tool I refer to.
1 horse power is equiv to 746 watts for electric motors .
1.050 watts is 1.4075 horsepower almost 1.5 hp

Most small engines such as lawnmower engines are of the 1 hp type
One horsepower is power or energy divided by time, and is 550 ft∙lb/sec, or 33,000 ft∙lb/min.
A pound-foot (lb·ft or lbf·ft) is a unit of torque (a vector). One pound-foot is the torque created by one pound force acting at a perpendicular distance of one foot from a pivot point.

So in lay-mans terms 1.4 hp is 770 ft-lbs/ sec or 46,200 ft-lb/min acting at a perpendicular distance of one foot from a pivot point.
30 lbs pressure is what is usually in car tyres.


Try lifting that in a bench press or a dead weight not to mind control a sudden twisting force not to your center of gravity which happens when using a drill. I understand such are world standard bench records. http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...v=6bu9csQC45c#!

When held correctly the pivot point is the entire body, not your wrist or arm and not the length of one foot in total but rather closer to three. There is also a implied force of friction and mass in regards your body being moved. This is why there is a warning to always hold the drill correctly. You also have a loss of power in the motor and the gearing, 1050watts would at best translate to a power of 850watts in the most efficient drill out there. Which I can assure you is not yours.

Your maths are flawed and too basic for a actual real world scenario.

[astrofool]

Unless the drill was advertised with anti kickback features, I don't see how this is the fault of the drill or the seller of the drill.

It was also probably too large/powerful a tool for what you were using it for, or were able to handle correctly.

[nibtrix]

Originally Posted by mrjoneill

Did not expect a DIY tool would be capable of causing a serious injury, or capable of wrenching ones shoulder out of its socket.

I thought it broke your finger? Whose shoulder was wrenched out of its socket by a drill?

[ejmaztec]

Originally Posted by nibtrix

I thought it broke your finger? Whose shoulder was wrenched out of its socket by a drill?

One of those drills they use in mining might, but I doubt yer common-or-garden diy drill would be capable.