DoE testing - The Last Word

lastsaturday · 09-05-2018 1:20pm

Donaldo wrote: »

Thanks Paddy, your theory makes sense. Know anybody who has/would successfully tackle this job?

i just spent a lot of money on bodywork getting my citroen relay through DOE.. the area under the battery was pretty ugly as well. didnt need to remove the engine though. there is a lot room to work if you take the front plastic mudguard out from the wheel arch and go at it from underneath. once the metalwork was completed, i put a load of curust and then rustoleum over the entire area, from the bulkhead all the way down to the radiator crossmember to try and protect the chassis. i also spent a bit of time putting u-channel around the rim of the engine bay, and covering the battery to stop any further damage.. find a backyard type panelbeater, if the garages wont go near it. worked for me.

zurbfoundation · 15-05-2018 5:40pm

Had a list of things to do on the Townace after the last DOE, CV boot left to do and Im thinking because of a new track rod end i may need an alignment too.

Anyway after (attempting) to adjust the brake imbalance in the rear - I think I have it even between the two sides, The service brake figures that it failed on, will that improve with adjusting the imbalance at the rear? It was close to passing and to drive, the brakes are not a problem. Is there anything else I can try to improve this performance before the test? Bleeding? Pads and discs at the front are in good shape.

Thanks

autumnalcore · 18-05-2018 10:44pm

If the rear brakes are correctly adjusted weak braking could just be because the van was idle. With drums if its been idle for a while the drums can get surface rust that seems to rub off on the shoe and your brakes are rubbish for a while, when its been idle I'd always pull the handbrake lightly while driving to knock off the rust and scuff up the drum a bit and give the brakes a few jabs.

When theres a high imbalance and both side are correctly adjusted you'll often find that the cylinder on the weak side is weeping slighlty if thats happened the shoes will need a good dousing in brake cleaner.

zurbfoundation · 18-05-2018 11:23pm

autumnalcore wrote: »

If the rear brakes are correctly adjusted weak braking could just be because the van was idle. With drums if its been idle for a while the drums can get surface rust that seems to rub off on the shoe and your brakes are rubbish for a while, when its been idle I'd always pull the handbrake lightly while driving to knock off the rust and scuff up the drum a bit and give the brakes a few jabs.

When theres a high imbalance and both side are correctly adjusted you'll often find that the cylinder on the weak side is weeping slighlty if thats happened the shoes will need a good dousing in brake cleaner.

Thanks. Didnt see any leaking when i cleaned them up. Hopefully the adjustment did it

[Deleted User] · 19-05-2018 12:29am

I flappy wheel mine with a drill every year (shoe pad material & mating surface) after I had the bright idea to copper anti-seize my wheel bolts on a German build what spins thread lubricant into my drums.

Then I balance by having the rear axle in the air & spinning the prop shaft with the handbrake three teeth in because one automatic adjuster is junk too, but I can pass a test if I don't reverse too much on the way to the centre.

zurbfoundation · 19-05-2018 7:41am

Ok thanks. Finished the last task on her last night, torn CV boot. So will be back for a test hopefully sol. Maybe next week

autumnalcore · 19-05-2018 3:29pm

I'm halfway through drilling out about 60 spot welds to get mine ready for welding, major disadvantage of living in the city now is I can't break out the air chisel any more

[Deleted User] · 19-05-2018 4:09pm

Cities are over-rated. I run 8inch grinders after midnight at my dry-dock. :P

I'm into my 3rd 8'x4' of aluminium chequer plate. Next mission is plate the dissolving skirts. Right after I beat a certain tyre fitters with a torque wrench and make them buy me 10 new wheel studs after having over torqued my wheels so much I broke a wheel brace trying to remove them.
Probably need to replace a wheel hub and bearing too, sigh...

autumnalcore · 24-05-2018 11:31pm

autumnalcore wrote: »

I'm halfway through drilling out about 60 spot welds to get mine ready for welding, major disadvantage of living in the city now is I can't break out the air chisel any more

Like most rust jobs this got bigger by the minute though it was confined to a small area (two mouse nests) it involved 5 bodywork / chassis components each side so I passed it off to a professional, now €400 lighter after all my work but its all welded up primed and schutzed

zurbfoundation · 25-05-2018 10:14am

mine is below at the test center - fingers and toes crossed.

zurbfoundation · 25-05-2018 5:39pm

zurbfoundation wrote: »

mine is below at the test center - fingers and toes crossed.

Failed again. Track rod end i changed had the alignment out. Need to re allign and retest.

autumnalcore · 03-06-2018 7:46pm

zurbfoundation wrote: »

zurbfoundation wrote: »

mine is below at the test center - fingers and toes crossed.

Failed again. Track rod end i changed had the alignment out. Need to re allign and retest.

Hope it went through ours is done for another year. When changing the track rod end its safer to measure from the inner track rod end to the center of the ball cup because the trackrod end casting can vary. You can also double check the toe before and afterwards with a measuring tape between the front tyres its easier if there are central lines in the tyre tread you measure from one to the other and make sure its the same afterwards.

zurbfoundation · 14-06-2018 12:25pm

autumnalcore wrote: »

Hope it went through ours is done for another year. When changing the track rod end its safer to measure from the inner track rod end to the center of the ball cup because the trackrod end casting can vary. You can also double check the toe before and afterwards with a measuring tape between the front tyres its easier if there are central lines in the tyre tread you measure from one to the other and make sure its the same afterwards.

Got it thru on retest today! Happy days!

Field east · 29-08-2018 7:52pm

Field east wrote: »

Make sure before you book that the centre will test it at Low Idle only. Some centres are testing Motorhome's at low and high idle including vehicles that are 1994 and older and engines that were not designed for the Lambda test at high idle

My Peugeot J5 Talbot Motorhome has passed the CRW test up to last year. The smoke test was done at the low idle only. But this year the way the RSA programme is set up for vehicle testing apparently is insisting that my May 1994 Talbot be also tested at high idle. I have a letter from a Peugeot main dealer which states that the ‘vehicle was fitted with a 1971cc petrol engine in 1993 at manufacture and therefor should be treated for exhaust emissions at low idle only - because of its design’.
Has any boardie out there have a the same problem and how did you resolve it. Any guidance would be very much appreciated

bugsntinas · 24-12-2018 5:58pm

i've just bought myself a campervan which is in fairly good condition for a 1999 van.the engine is good but i've just checked the crw/doe and it was due in 2004!now there's no way the van has stood for that amount of time so was wondering if it's likely to cause me any trouble when i test it

[Deleted User] · 24-12-2018 11:27pm

Previous owner's liability not yours.

bugsntinas · 25-12-2018 12:31am

Sir Liamalot wrote: »

Previous owner's liability not yours.

cheers for that.

bugsntinas · 25-12-2018 4:47pm

could someone confirm the following for me.according to the cvrt the last test was due in june 2004 now when my son checked how much test i'd get he read the following:if i test it next week i'd get approx 5 months test but if i do it in june the test will only be valid for the day and then i would need to get it tested again.i know this country is stupidly run but that sounds idiotic

autumnalcore · 25-12-2018 8:40pm

bugsntinas wrote: »

could someone confirm the following for me.according to the cvrt the last test was due in june 2004 now when my son checked how much test i'd get he read the following:if i test it next week i'd get approx 5 months test but if i do it in june the test will only be valid for the day and then i would need to get it tested again.i know this country is stupidly run but that sounds idiotic

The system is like that to remove any incentive to chance your arm and rely of the leniency of the Gardaí. When I lived in the midlands people would permanently drive around with a print out of an appointment 3 months in the future -'Ah sure Guard tis booked in, I tried me best, I couldn't get an earlier appointment'
https://www.cvrt.ie/en/Certificate-of-Roadworthiness/Pages/CRW-Expiry-Dates.aspx

zambo · 26-12-2018 9:54am

No, it is arranged that way to make more money for the RSA, an organisation which according to the Irish Times is being fattened up prior to being privatized ,
When it was first announced the RSA promised the test would run from first test or from date of first reg ,I had my camper declared off the road and when I eventually brought it for its first test they only gave me a cert for six months even though it was off the road as accepted by the tax office. So although I brought it for test in the spring so the test would be at the start of the year they want me to take it out of winter storage in November to get it tested . If I pay the full cost for the test I should get a full cert .

niloc1951 · 28-12-2018 8:38pm

The six-month test is just another money taker invented by the RSA.

In the case of vehicles tested more than 1 year late, the next expiry date for the certificate of roadworthiness will be six months from the date of the pass statement. but it doesn't apply to the NCT.

Now, this particular racket is there to penalise people who fail to keep their CVRT up to date, it has no safety function unless that is the test on such a 'laid-up' vehicle is 'half-baked' compared to a normal test and a re-test is necessary after only six months.
The rule is particularly unjust for people who buy a vehicle which has an extended period of lay-up before being put back on the road and for people who for one reason or another lay-up their vehicle for an extended period.

Turbohymac · 28-12-2018 8:49pm

Sorry but without the nct for cars and cvrt for goods..then there would be an awful amount of deathtraps traveling around our public roads.. many people don't even bother to do basic services to their vehicles but make the loudest noise when they are failed at the test centre.. I go to the local cvrt weekly with rigid and artic trucks for my employer and I see lots more than people that are simply disgruntled because their unroadworthy vehicle is not passed and instead they have to go and carry out repairs...these repairs should have been done months earlier if the owner looked after the vehicle properly...as for vehicles laid up..or other. This is even more the responsibility of whoever is putting in back onto a public road to ensure that it's safe and in a roadworthy state..

zambo · 28-12-2018 9:09pm

Turbohymac wrote: »

Sorry but without the nct for cars and cvrt for goods..then there would be an awful amount of deathtraps traveling around our public roads.. many people don't even bother to do basic services to their vehicles but make the loudest noise when they are failed at the test centre.. I go to the local cvrt weekly with rigid and artic trucks for my employer and I see lots more than people that are simply disgruntled because their unroadworthy vehicle is not passed and instead they have to go and carry out repairs...these repairs should have been done months earlier if the owner looked after the vehicle properly...as for vehicles laid up..or other. This is even more the responsibility of whoever is putting in back onto a public road to ensure that it's safe and in a roadworthy state..

I dont see what your point has to do with the thread , if a van which has been stored in an insulated shed while off the road , is properly maintained and passes the cvrt at the first attempt why should it get only half a cert for the full price . My van has never failed a test and is serviced regularly .

bugsntinas · 28-12-2018 9:32pm

zambo wrote: »

I dont see what your point has to do with the thread , if a van which has been stored in an insulated shed while off the road , is properly maintained and passes the cvrt at the first attempt why should it get only half a cert for the full price . My van has never failed a test and is serviced regularly .

exactly.surely if it is roadworthy and passes it should have a years ticket.
mine is going to fail i know that but as i have no one to check it over i'll see what it fails on and do the work but still don't understand why i shouldn't get a years ticket when it passes

niloc1951 · 28-12-2018 10:42pm

Turbohymac wrote: »

Sorry but without the nct for cars and cvrt for goods..then there would be an awful amount of deathtraps traveling around our public roads.. many people don't even bother to do basic services to their vehicles but make the loudest noise when they are failed at the test centre.. I go to the local cvrt weekly with rigid and artic trucks for my employer and I see lots more than people that are simply disgruntled because their unroadworthy vehicle is not passed and instead they have to go and carry out repairs...these repairs should have been done months earlier if the owner looked after the vehicle properly...as for vehicles laid up..or other. This is even more the responsibility of whoever is putting in back onto a public road to ensure that it's safe and in a roadworthy state..

There's no one on here suggesting that roadworthiness testing isn't a necessary exercise nor is anyone suggesting using an unroadworthy vehicle is acceptable.

Comment on the actual issues being discussed would be welcome.

Turbohymac · 28-12-2018 11:08pm

It's only going to get a full 12 months test if tested max 30 days before its actual date of first registration here in Ireland...not being smart but why didn't you present it for its annual test within the 30 days before its first reg date and then you'd get the full 12 months...
It's no different for you as any of us owning a hgv.. if my van was due its cvrt the first day of next February and i now decided to sell it .and was hoping to sell with a new 12 month test . I'd have to wait till after the first of January or else I'd also get only a new cert valid for 5 weeks.. yes pointless but even with an nct yes it's better you can actually test 90 days earlier than test date but same applies if you're mid year.. if you want your van on the road legally before its next registration anniversary then just be happy it passed.. and simply test again within 30 days of registration in about 5 months time and you're good from there... its actually not the rsa,s fault that the vehicle was taken off the road and dry stored.. but there not going to play games either..
Relax everyone..

bugsntinas · 28-12-2018 11:19pm

i only bought the van a couple of weeks ago and knew nothing of how stupid the rules are governing the test.why can't it be simple like the uk and when ya test a vehicle ya get 12 months test.
why would i be pleased that it passed a test knowing i'd have to do it agian in 5 or 6 months and paying full wack again when it should have been entitled to 12 months.typical irish government logic or lack of

Turbohymac · 28-12-2018 11:52pm

Talking on the subject of stupid rules it even worse in uk ..if you purchase a vehicle from a dealer you must tax it just to drive to the ferry ..totally mad..
But with cvrt ..the rsa are probably not going to dick around with people that might hope to get by for 3 years but only test twice within that time..
You're definitely not alone ..have a look on done deal. Loads of vehicles for sale with a brand new cvrt ..but short test ..
So like you the vehicle needs test again in a few months....
If you were going to sell your van even though you only have a half year test it would still stand that your vehicle is actually roadworthy and has been very recently tested..
But unfortunately for you its pay up again in 6 months.. could be lot worse if you failed and had to spend triple the test cost in repairs.
Happy motoring nothings free even here in Ireland..and yes theres definitely logic otherwise chancers would constantly be parking up to avoid test and dodging annual fees...

niloc1951 · 29-12-2018 1:27pm

Turbohymac wrote: »

......and yes theres definitely logic otherwise chancers would constantly be parking up to avoid test and dodging annual fees...

So there we have it, the six-month Certificate of Vehicle Roadworthiness Test has nothing to do with Roadworthiness, its a penalty test to discourage chancers from playing with the system.
It's just tough luck that innocents are scooped up too.

Now explain why an import or a vehicle bought out of storage only gets a six-month certificate.

Regarding if you purchase a vehicle from a dealer you must tax it just to drive to the ferry the same applies here, but you can get one month tax in the UK and if it's a new vehicle for export you can get a FREE tax for three months.

zambo · 29-12-2018 2:29pm

Turbohymac wrote: »

It's only going to get a full 12 months test if tested max 30 days before its actual date of first registration here in Ireland...not being smart but why didn't you present it for its annual test within the 30 days before its first reg date and then you'd get the full 12 months...
It's no different for you as any of us owning a hgv.. if my van was due its cvrt the first day of next February and i now decided to sell it .and was hoping to sell with a new 12 month test . I'd have to wait till after the first of January or else I'd also get only a new cert valid for 5 weeks.. yes pointless but even with an nct yes it's better you can actually test 90 days earlier than test date but same applies if you're mid year.. if you want your van on the road legally before its next registration anniversary then just be happy it passed.. and simply test again within 30 days of registration in about 5 months time and you're good from there... its actually not the rsa,s fault that the vehicle was taken off the road and dry stored.. but there not going to play games either..
Relax everyone..

I dont know if you have any interest in camper vans as all your replies refer to commercial vans and trailers . What we are discussing is a vehicle of type M1 ie cars campervans etc . Not a commercial vehicle .If you have a problem with how testing is applied to commercials I would suggest you look for a more appropriate place to vent your concerns. Campervans are only tested in cvrt centers because some of them dont fit in nct centres . CVRT rules should not apply . I accept what you say when you state you are not being smart and that there are many chancers involved in the haulage industry but the private user of a private campervan should not be held hostage by the efforts of the cvrt to wring more money from the haulage industry .
While you are at it you might like to explain why I am charged a road safety levy on the test which the RSA explain is used to finance the commercial vehicle roadworthiness reform program which they say includes new benefits for road transport operators .

DoE testing - The Last Word

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