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question on attaching sink to stud wall

  • 27-06-2014 10:31pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 6,463 ✭✭✭


    recently had a plumber put in a new bathroom for us.

    we had a tiler see it today and he told us that the sink is only attached to the wall by silicone.

    I presume this insufficient?

    What is the proper way to do it?

    Thanks.


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 3,404 ✭✭✭corkgsxr


    I depends. If theres no grounds behind the wall screws are only for show.

    Many will probably slander but if you use tech7 it'll rip the wall off before it comes off. Believe me iv ripped walls off


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,836 ✭✭✭gifted


    Tombo2001 wrote: »
    recently had a plumber put in a new bathroom for us.

    we had a tiler see it today and he told us that the sink is only attached to the wall by silicone.

    I presume this insufficient?

    What is the proper way to do it?

    Thanks.

    Has it a pedestal? If it has there are usually holes in either corner underneath for screwing onto the wall and the pedestal would take the weight. If it has no pedestal then it should have brackets that are screwed onto the wall and the sink will sit onto them, either way it should be screwed.


  • Registered Users Posts: 16,875 ✭✭✭✭Sleeper12


    gifted wrote: »
    Has it a pedestal? If it has there are usually holes in either corner underneath for screwing onto the wall and the pedestal would take the weight. If it has no pedestal then it should have brackets that are screwed onto the wall and the sink will sit onto them, either way it should be screwed.

    I agree but if the bracket is only screwed into plasterboard with no grounds then the bracket will pull away from the wall. If there are no grounds to screw Into then silicone will be needed.


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,836 ✭✭✭gifted


    Sleeper12 wrote: »
    I agree but if the bracket is only screwed into plasterboard with no grounds then the bracket will pull away from the wall. If there are no grounds to screw Into then silicone will be needed.

    Get some plasterboard toggle screws, there are some good ones on the market nowadays, also the plumber should have made sure there was grounds in the wall, even if it meant cutting out the plasterboard and attaching grounds and putting the plasterboard over it again. Silicone on its own should not be used to hold a sink to a wall, it's a complete no no. I knew a foreman who once used gripfill behind sinks because of no grounds, week after they were fitted the architect changed the locations and the sinks were smashed getting them off and new ones had to be purchased.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,404 ✭✭✭corkgsxr


    Those toggles go loose and rip chunks out of walls.

    I never use toggles. Sick of the gaping holes they leave behind and make it impossible to rehang


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  • Registered Users Posts: 4,836 ✭✭✭gifted


    corkgsxr wrote: »
    Those toggles go loose and rip chunks out of walls.

    I never use toggles. Sick of the gaping holes they leave behind and make it impossible to rehang

    As I said, there are a variety of toggles on the market, some are ****e but there are some good ones out there, a bit more expensive but well capable of doing the job.

    In my opinion, silicone on its own is a no no. What happens if the sink moves, even just a touch and it's gonna look off level. What does the plumber do if there's no grounds for a toilet cistern? Silicone that as well?


  • Registered Users Posts: 9,605 ✭✭✭gctest50


    gifted wrote: »
    As I said, there are a variety of toggles on the market, some are ****e but there are some good ones out there, a bit more expensive but well capable of doing the job.

    You're still hanging it off plasterboard though ?

    Long M8 rawlbolt through it , spacer , into wall


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,836 ✭✭✭gifted


    gctest50 wrote: »
    You're still hanging it off plasterboard though ?

    Long M8 rawlbolt through it , spacer , into wall

    Too big and bulky for a ceramic sink unfortunately, it can be used for the bracket but couldn't use for the ceramic sinks with the holes in the corner. When the rawbolt is being tightened there is a chance the sink will pull in to much and crack the ceramic


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,565 ✭✭✭K.Flyer


    Tombo2001 wrote: »
    recently had a plumber put in a new bathroom for us.

    we had a tiler see it today and he told us that the sink is only attached to the wall by silicone.

    I presume this insufficient?

    What is the proper way to do it?

    Thanks.


    Presuming the walls are not tiled yet (as above)
    Remove the sink, cut out section of the plaster board and fit timber grounds (3/4" floor board or ply is fine) between the studs where the sink is located, re-instate plaster board section, Tile the walls, re-fit the sink.
    Job Done!


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,836 ✭✭✭gifted


    gifted wrote: »
    Get some plasterboard toggle screws, there are some good ones on the market nowadays, also the plumber should have made sure there was grounds in the wall, even if it meant cutting out the plasterboard and attaching grounds and putting the plasterboard over it again. Silicone on its own should not be used to hold a sink to a wall, it's a complete no no. I knew a foreman who once used gripfill behind sinks because of no grounds, week after they were fitted the architect changed the locations and the sinks were smashed getting them off and new ones had to be purchased.

    :)


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  • Registered Users Posts: 3,404 ✭✭✭corkgsxr


    gifted wrote: »
    As I said, there are a variety of toggles on the market, some are ****e but there are some good ones out there, a bit more expensive but well capable of doing the job.

    In my opinion, silicone on its own is a no no. What happens if the sink moves, even just a touch and it's gonna look off level. What does the plumber do if there's no grounds for a toilet cistern? Silicone that as well?

    Id screw as well but some situations id not rely on them alone. Iv not used silicone in years its muck. Tech7 all the way. Just needs a delicate touch to apply.

    and expensive or cheap iv never found toggles that are decent.

    mostly I use 5.5 bit red plugs and 5x50 screws. Better than any toggle


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,463 ✭✭✭Tombo2001


    Thanks for all the answers folks....


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