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The Landrover Discovery Td5 Thread

123578

Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 2,343 ✭✭✭JohnBoy


    did the injector harness and a few other bits and bobs, running lovely and smooth now.

    have a set of cruise control switches on order too. do they "just work" or does the cruise control function need to be enabled in the software?


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,343 ✭✭✭JohnBoy


    Ok, well I have the answer, about ten minutes after I posted my cruise control switches arrived, and since it's actually dry out today I fitted them during lunch.

    no setup required they work straight away. only took 50 minutes to fit and could probably do it in half an hour at home with proper tools, but it took me ages to cut the hole in the steering wheel with a stanley knife.


  • Registered Users Posts: 451 ✭✭OldGuysRule


    Good mod.

    Just back from a trip to France in my Discovery, covered about 2k miles without missing a beat, fully loaded, surfboard on roof, bikes on wheel carrier etc.

    One thing I did notice with the cruise control on the long motorway 70+mph journeys was that it can be quite aggressive in its breaking on the downhill sections, couple of times, I just disengaged it and hit the resume button as we reached the bottom.


  • Registered Users Posts: 73 ✭✭laois hibby


    Anyone got any idea where i can get a bracket for the air suspension compressor? just discovered its in pieces. its a disco 3 tdv6


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,884 ✭✭✭101sean


    Suspect that's going to be a dealer part, can't find a listing for it on the usual UK suppliers.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 73 ✭✭laois hibby


    thanks


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,343 ✭✭✭JohnBoy


    ACK!!!!!

    Tailgate wont open.

    The tailgate is stuck, I've removed the door card and everything seems to be moving freely, nothin seems seized, the central locking moves the lock button up and down, the inner handle will pop the lock back up.

    the outer handle isnt seized

    The inner handle wont open the door, but the child lock is on.

    the outer handle lever moves up and down freely, it feels like it's not connected to anything or something.

    where do I go from here, google is just telling me to use some wd40, but that's not it, the handle isnt seized.

    How do I open the door? it needs to be open to remove the latch!



    Going to dublin in the morning for a wedding, want to take the disco as the kids get far less carsick in it.

    helllllppppppppp


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,343 ✭✭✭JohnBoy


    sh*t, I've made it worse.

    was wiggling my fingers about inside and disconnected the deadlock linkage, now the frickin thing is completely locked, cant even unlock, never mind open it.

    I can feel the deadlock linkage, but cant get onto it to open it.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,343 ✭✭✭JohnBoy


    ok, calmed slightly, got the deadlock opened again,

    so back to square one, outer handle does nowt, inner handle will unlock the door but not open it as the child lock is on.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,343 ✭✭✭JohnBoy


    CHILD LOCK!!!!!!

    I put a scredriver between the door and the door rubber and switched off the child lock, then was able to open the door from the inside.

    I'm gonna take the latch out and clean it up well.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,343 ✭✭✭JohnBoy


    took the lock out, cleaned it, refitted and the same thing happened after a few open/closes.

    eventually figured it out. if you attempted to open the door from the outside while locked the lock was sticking partially open.

    a tip on the child lock lever would release it.

    after studying it for ages I found that if I moved the end of one of the torsion springs to rest outside the latch it was under just a little bit more torsion and was able to overcome whatever the sticking issue is.

    I'm not sure whether the cause is something getting sticky, or the spring getting weak with age.

    I dont think I've seen the last of this issue.

    what's involved in reprogramming the central locking to open all the doors? I dont live in compton and I'm not overly concerned about carjackings. it wrecks my head this whole double blip routine


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,884 ✭✭✭101sean


    Glad you appear to have sorted it! The cause is probably both a weak spring and dirt in the lock.

    You can diy reprogram the body ecu and locking routine with a a Nanocom or Hawkeye or get a LR specialist to do it for you.


  • Registered Users Posts: 451 ✭✭OldGuysRule


    Whereabouts in the country are you? I have a nanocom Evo that can reprogramme the central locking to just open all doors with one plip. I am based in Limerick / Clare


  • Registered Users, Subscribers Posts: 5,797 ✭✭✭hometruths


    Thinking of selling my 01 Discovery and wondered if any one wiser than myself here might give a ballpark opinion of what it might be worth?

    5 seat TD5 ES UK Import
    Epsom Green with tan leather
    twin sunroofs and all the ES bells and whistles
    Land Rover dog guard
    roof ladder
    Parrot Bluetooth phone/ipod
    No stamped service history book, but receipts for all maintenance since 06, many 1000s spent
    Airbag suspension converted to springs

    Above average condition but not mint.
    New NCT
    134k miles

    Any ideas?
    Much appreciated.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,884 ✭✭✭101sean


    €3500-4500, pitch it a bit higher and be prepared to drop, not too much demand because of the high road tax.


  • Registered Users, Subscribers Posts: 5,797 ✭✭✭hometruths


    101sean wrote: »
    €3500-4500, pitch it a bit higher and be prepared to drop, not too much demand because of the high road tax.

    thanks sean!


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,376 ✭✭✭O.A.P


    My brother paid 6500 for a late 02 for what sounds the same as yours all though its maroon and auto. He bought it off the main dealer and it came with a six month or six 1000 miles warranty and has the newer TD5 engine.

    It is luxury to drive or even as a passenger even though the air suspension has been replaced with springs (107000 miles on it).

    Its a beautiful machine pity about the tax.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,628 ✭✭✭greenpilot


    I noticed that the fuel pump in my 2002 td5 disco had started to whine all the time instead of turning off after starting. Plus the jeep started to start badly. Sent it in to a 4x4 place in Castlebar to get sorted. Picked it up up at the garage after a week and drove it straight to Dublin. Next morning, I went to start it and again, it had problems starting. The "new" pump is very very noisy and now doesnt switch off at all. Plus, I actually couldnt start it for 10 minutes at a garage as i pulled in for a fuel top up!!

    GGGrrrrrr. I am bringing the jeep back to the garage today. Really pissed off. I even did the purge sequence using the ECU, but still the same. Am I Missing Something??

    Regards,

    P


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,884 ✭✭✭101sean


    Sounds like the replacement pump is duff. At least they are easy to get at in a D2. How come they had it so long, takes less than an hour to change one.

    There's no smell of diesel is there, just wondering if one of the fuel lines isn't fully seated, they are push fit.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,628 ✭✭✭greenpilot


    101sean wrote: »
    Sounds like the replacement pump is duff. At least they are easy to get at in a D2. How come they had it so long, takes less than an hour to change one.

    There's no smell of diesel is there, just wondering if one of the fuel lines isn't fully seated, they are push fit.

    He hadnt got a spare so I had to wait until one came in.

    Regards,

    Paul


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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,884 ✭✭✭101sean


    Fair enough. It's not unknown for brand new ones to fail especially non genuine ones


  • Registered Users Posts: 17 Green Oval


    Fuel pumps last about 6 months if your lucky in my experience. Cause less trouble if you keep the tank full. The car will still run even with a faulty pump. If you let it go below half way you'll get trouble. If the pump is suspect keep the tank as full as possible. It makes a big difference. The headlight arrangement on the 03/04 cars is disgraceful. Takes ages to change a bulb. Surprised the screws rusted, mine blow so often there's no need for wd40. Just bring a screwdriver everywhere with you. The rear doors are very narrow, don't care what anybody says. The rear door sticks constantly, known issue. The rear wiper is also hopeless and wears out in days as far as i can see. The cruise control will limit revs very harshly on steep hills, get used to it. It holds a constant speed well despite that. The heat shield from above the turbo comes loose after a few days and rattles like hell on tickover, tie it back to the bulkhead with a snap tie. One of the coolant pipes wears our fast as its running right over a steel air con pipe on which it vibrates right over the compressor. More snap ties or a lot of plastic tape required. Otherwise you'll loose all the coolant very suddendly some day. A spare starter is very handy as it will fail at the worst possible moment (christmas eve, 6pm on top of a muti-storey car park in kilkenny while snow is starting to fall!) but fitting a starter remains a nightmare operation. If it shows even the slightest sign of ever overheating stop at once and do not proceed under any circumstances. Check the front driveshaft regularly, if it fails from the front (it will eventually) it will leave a big dent in the underside and you stranded. Only a tow truck wil get you out of that situation. Nothing to be done but replace it if it wears as theres no grease nipple on the front of the shaft.

    New issues. Auto warning lights on dash light after changing from forward to reverse. Switch off, restart and out they go. Otherwise car wont change past 3rd gear. Some sort of software glitch i presume? Gears work perfectly otherwise. In very heavy rain might get warning lights too so i presume some wire is getting soaked. Must try liberal spray of wd40 on any wiring i can find.

    Seems to be floating around a lot on the rear suspension. New dampers will be tried. An airbag is leaking too so i need one of those as well. No leaks from ace or dampers or any sign of missing/broken parts.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,884 ✭✭✭101sean


    Try cleaning and sealing the XYZ switch on the autobox, they are prone to giving trouble as the aircon drain is directly over them. Also look at the other connector on the box, does sound like anelectrical problm rather than mechanical.


  • Registered Users Posts: 17 Green Oval


    I'll add it to the long list of stuff to do. Thanks for that.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,884 ✭✭✭101sean


    If you google XYZ switch you should find plenty of info on the problem.

    Airbags should almost be regarded as a service item although some expect them to last forever.

    I'm still on my original fuel pump after 150,000 miles which is unusual (and having said that it will now probably fail :rolleyes:)

    Check the various bushes in the back axle as well, I think if there's wear in the Watts linkage it can cause handling problems.


  • Registered Users Posts: 451 ✭✭OldGuysRule


    In 4 yrs of owning td5 Discos, I have not had the amount of trouble Green Oval has had. Have done a little over 82k (bringing first one from 35k to 100k and second / current one from 43k to 60k), I have only replaced one fuel pump (before it failed). Have had other works done including oil cooler, an ACE connector, an AC radiator and a battery, but not bad for the life they have had. I do not find changing the bulbs on the facelift too much of an issue, agreed it is more complicated that the prefacelift, but that is more a reflection of the ease of the older ones. I changed the four main bulbs when I got it last year to Philips +90% and 16 months later they are still working, to note, I turn on the lights every time I drive it.

    Still cannot imagine driving anything else.


  • Registered Users Posts: 17 Green Oval


    I've had 4 of them now and the total mileage is likely several hundred thousand miles. The current version is the worst re the fuel pumps, all the other issues were common to them all. One was stolen after a month mind so that was trouble free apart from being nicked. If you go far enough everything i described will eventually happen.


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,072 ✭✭✭Mech1


    Just to let you land rover, Disco, Range Rover owners know, I have a new Autologic diagnostic system that beats Dealer diagnostics at times.
    http://www.autologic.com/en/pages/homeproducts/autologic-solution/land-rover-diagnostics

    Pm me to organise a plugin:D


  • Registered Users Posts: 21 TheBrack


    Hi Suckler,

    Can you point me in the direction of the roof sensor that killed your disco, mine died in the yard on Friday, it was fine on Tursday evening so I am trying to pinpoint what it could be. I am hoping to check the Crank Position Sensor in the morning if I can find it.

    Many thanks.

    TheBrack.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,142 ✭✭✭Suckler


    TheBrack wrote: »
    Hi Suckler,

    Can you point me in the direction of the roof sensor that killed your disco, mine died in the yard on Friday, it was fine on Tursday evening so I am trying to pinpoint what it could be. I am hoping to check the Crank Position Sensor in the morning if I can find it.

    Many thanks.

    TheBrack.

    It was the one housed just above the rear view mirror that was causing my issues. Was yours running when it "died". The faulty sensor in mine wouldnt let it start but when it did start there was no issue. Diagnostics should quickly tell you the problem.


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