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Which solid fuel stove do people recommend?

2

Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3 jamesbuild


    Hi, I have one, I got it at thestoveshop.ie, I'm very happy with it..


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3 PLANTMAN


    HAS ANYONE GOT A HEARLD 80B STOVE IN THEIR HOUSE AND HOW DO YOU RATE THEM? AND WHAT MADE YOU PICK IT?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 457 ✭✭hiorta


    Google jotul stoves for more info.
    The Scandinavian stoves are tops - Morso already mentioned - though I dont know about suppliers.
    As to the stove itself, cast iron is the original and very good. Be careful of enamelled stoves which look great when new, but become pitted due to chipping from the great heat generated. They generally come as wood burners and multi fuel.


  • Registered Users Posts: 271 ✭✭chefwes


    hey gang my good lady and myself are currently building our house were stuck deciding on our solid fuel burner our plumber has said a 16kw burner isnt strong enough but he told us before it would be perfect , we invested alot of extra money in insulation and were wondering would a 16kw burner be enough our house is a 2200sqft dormer bungalow we hope sumbody can shed some light on the subject thanks guys :D


  • Registered Users Posts: 8 new boy


    chefwes wrote: »
    hey gang my good lady and myself are currently building our house were stuck deciding on our solid fuel burner our plumber has said a 16kw burner isnt strong enough but he told us before it would be perfect , we invested alot of extra money in insulation and were wondering would a 16kw burner be enough our house is a 2200sqft dormer bungalow we hope sumbody can shed some light on the subject thanks guys :D
    how many rads u got? heating zoned?


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2 dutchie1


    Just looking for information on a solid fuel stove,amazed to find such a varied responce from shops as to which make is best and what size stove i should get.
    The stove i want is a solid fuel one which burns coal and timber mainly,it is for a sunroom 20' x 9' with three small windows facing long wall and one long and french doors on short walls.
    A bit of solid advise would be great.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,389 ✭✭✭Carlow52


    Sizing the heat requirement is easy:
    http://www.charnwood.com/stove-calculator.asp

    Whats the plan for the chimney or is it only for smokless fuel:D


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2 dutchie1


    It seems all i need is a stove roughly 3.11 kw,we might be having difficulty with the chimney as it wont be able to connect to existing chimning and it will have to go through roof.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,389 ✭✭✭Carlow52


    dutchie1 wrote: »
    It seems all i need is a stove roughly 3.11 kw,we might be having difficulty with the chimney as it wont be able to connect to existing chimning and it will have to go through roof.

    Rem the quoted output from the stove assumes a certain refill rate of fuel with a specific heat capacity so u need to go say for a 4 kw one.

    On the chimney u need to research that a bit more as the stainless steel twin flue cost a lot, don't last forever and IMHO look v ugly in a domestic situation.

    Dont dismiss building a new chimney using some of the more modern solutions: they cost a little more that the s/s TFlue but have a life of c 60 years: u can pm me if u wish


  • Registered Users Posts: 41 Gussie Finknott


    The Hunter 14 Herald is a steel stove not cast
    The Hunter 80b needs a wheelbarrow to fill it
    Both are good stove along with the Mulberry which is cast
    But the best stove the i have come across is the SAEY Blenheim.And the worst are Stanley.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 31 broganire


    I'm afraid I have to dissagree with Gusssie. My experience of the hunter 80B and the blenheim were the complete opposite. Maybe my circunstances are different to yours.

    We had a saey blenheim stove in our house when we bought it and it was completely undersized for the amount of radiators and the size of the front room it was in. (despite guidelines from the shop it was bought in). In an effort to get good enough heat out of it to heat the space & radiators we used a huge amount of fuel with very little gain. Leaving us very frustrated and cold.

    Last winter before the frost we replaced it with a hunter 80B and we have never looked back. It heats up to 15 radiators plus a north facing room (a living room with a double high ceiling and large north facing windows) without a problem and our fuel useage has dropped because the stove is now sized correctly for the house and therefore much more efficient. Plus we no longer need to use the gas central heating which was on full time with the blenheim.

    If anything we needed a wheelbarrow to try and keep the blenheim going!


  • Registered Users Posts: 60 ✭✭kateof


    Is anyone familiar with the electric range from 'everhot'?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 226 ✭✭Mr Tim Buktoo


    So is there any particular websites or stores that would be good value for stoves?


  • Registered Users Posts: 14 travellingkitty


    I've been looking into a multi fuel stove for a large open plan living room. I don't need the boiler option. I believe I need something around 5-7KW output but I'm really confused at the price differentials out there. For example I can get a Dimplex WST5 Westcott 5 for €449 or I can get a Nestor Martin H23 for €1400 and I can't really see what I'm getting different for the money. Both are cast iron - both have airwash control. The Nestor Martin has Woodbox technology which sounds great from the brochure and salesman but is it really worth a grand more? I know that you get what you pay for but I'd like to be surer that the extra expense is actually giving me something I need. Can someone spell it out for me what the difference is?

    I also like the idea of a hot plate on the stove as the area I live in (North Clare) suffers from poor ESB supply and it would be nice to have a means of boiling the kettle if the power goes again this winter. Has anyone any recommendations for a stove with this feature? I've seen the Nestor Martin Harmony II but again it's pretty pricey.






  • Registered Users Posts: 21 vicar1


    is anyone using a wood pellet stove? if so, what would the pellet consumption be like for a 2400 sq ft house and a room 29x 18 that the stove is in? Any recommendations or would we be as well off with a high capacity multi fuel stove? Thanks!


  • Registered Users Posts: 21 vicar1


    Forgot to ask, has anyone used a Chieftain stove ?- Irish made


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,347 ✭✭✭randombar


    Lads resurrecting an old thread but looking to buy a charnwood, can I get some PM'ed recommendations please?


  • Registered Users Posts: 1 billy kelly


    I am looking to find which stove to use to heat using wood , logs , turf. Have been told i will need 7 - 8 kw. What do you do with the waste after use.
    Cheers


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 15,858 ✭✭✭✭paddy147


    I am looking to find which stove to use to heat using wood , logs , turf. Have been told i will need 7 - 8 kw. What do you do with the waste after use.
    Cheers


    ashpan under the stove,then put the ash into your wheelie bin and it goes out with the household waste.

    Moderm stoves dont give as much ash as a normal open fire,they burn the wood,turf very very well,so alot less ash is left in the grate and ash pan.


  • Registered Users Posts: 178 ✭✭claw14


    Hi Guys,
    Just wondering f anyone has any experience of a King Star stove. Seen a 7KW one in a showroom and it looked good. Can't find a lot of information on the net about them.
    Thanks


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  • Registered Users Posts: 5,472 ✭✭✭creedp


    Hi I am currently building a house and installing a stove (no back boiler) probably about 5-7 kw. I was interested with discussion on lined and insulated flues. The builder has built the chimney and lined it with what seems like a std chimney flue even though he knows a stove will be installed. Is this a problem? Should i ask him to change this, although this will be very problematic now as the chimney is finished.

    Thanks


  • Registered Users Posts: 452 ✭✭moceri


    I presume the chimney is lined with a Clay Flue liner. You can easily connect the stove with a steel pipe (Usually 5") to an adaptor that connects to the flue gatherer opening (7").

    Best choose a stove with a rear flue rather than top flue as you can position the stove further into the room.


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,472 ✭✭✭creedp


    moceri wrote: »
    I presume the chimney is lined with a Clay Flue liner. You can easily connect the stove with a steel pipe (Usually 5") to an adaptor that connects to the flue gatherer opening (7").

    Best choose a stove with a rear flue rather than top flue as you can position the stove further into the room.


    Thanks Moceri. One less problem to worry about! I was looking at a number of stove suppliers over weekend and found that a lot of them didn't supply stoves with an external air supply. Can anyone suggest a supplier in the Dublin area that supplies these stoves and possibly also recommend a suitable stove for a new build in the 5 - 7kw range.

    Thanks


  • Registered Users Posts: 290 ✭✭Antiquo


    creedp wrote: »
    Hi I am currently building a house and installing a stove (no back boiler) probably about 5-7 kw. I was interested with discussion on lined and insulated flues. The builder has built the chimney and lined it with what seems like a std chimney flue even though he knows a stove will be installed. Is this a problem? Should i ask him to change this, although this will be very problematic now as the chimney is finished.

    Thanks

    creedp a badly installed stove could kill you and everyone in the house through fire or CO. Google all you can on stoves and the proper installation then go to a few shops that sell known brand stoves for advice. You will quickly spot the guys who just want to sell you a box.

    Cheap stoves off the back of a truck, garden centre, corner shop, hardware store, etc. All trouble - no idea on correct install, regs, or materials. Parts constantly breaking and no chance of getting spares. Ref EN13240

    Stoves need a quality insulated twin wall 316L SS or 904L SS flue liner. 316L for multi/wood non boiler and 904L for boiler or ranges. Install a CO alarm and get the liner cleaned at least once a year.
    http://www.stovesonline.co.uk/lining_a_chimney.html

    Most have top or rear flue (not so you can get it further into the room) Rear flue must be "T" max 6" horizontal.

    Make sure you have sufficient clearance around stove and hearth in front also you need an air vent over 6KW - check regs for sizing.

    Adapters are supposed to be used in conjuction with a liner not just to vent into 8" clay flue.

    http://www.environ.ie/en/Publications/DevelopmentandHousing/BuildingStandards/FileDownLoad,1650,en.pdf


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,472 ✭✭✭creedp


    Antiquo wrote: »
    creedp a badly installed stove could kill you and everyone in the house through fire or CO. Google all you can on stoves and the proper installation then go to a few shops that sell known brand stoves for advice. You will quickly spot the guys who just want to sell you a box.

    Cheap stoves off the back of a truck, garden centre, corner shop, hardware store, etc. All trouble - no idea on correct install, regs, or materials. Parts constantly breaking and no chance of getting spares. Ref EN13240

    Stoves need a quality insulated twin wall 316L SS or 904L SS flue liner. 316L for multi/wood non boiler and 904L for boiler or ranges. Install a CO alarm and get the liner cleaned at least once a year.
    http://www.stovesonline.co.uk/lining_a_chimney.html

    Most have top or rear flue (not so you can get it further into the room) Rear flue must be "T" max 6" horizontal.

    Make sure you have sufficient clearance around stove and hearth in front also you need an air vent over 6KW - check regs for sizing.

    Adapters are supposed to be used in conjuction with a liner not just to vent into 8" clay flue.

    http://www.environ.ie/en/Publications/DevelopmentandHousing/BuildingStandards/FileDownLoad,1650,en.pdf


    Antiquo, thanks fort he advice above. Im afraid I left the building of chimney for stove in my builders capable hands and he has build a 8" clay pipe lined chimney with std blocks and the gaps between blocks and clay pipe filled with std mortar. I though this was fine until I read the thread "solid fuel stove advice" and my jaw droped open with every comment. I've said this before and it never ceases to amaze me how professionals are so unaware of Regs and new designs/materials. It looks like I am now going to have to go and talk to my builder to explain that I need to line the chimney with an appropriate liner for the stove and all that that entails including removing the existing 'bird cage' chimney top he installed and replacing with a water protector and possibly a device to hold liner in place.

    Im so confused at this point Im not sure where to go from here. For instance can I just install a liner and not insulate or should I insulate with rockwool sleeves or backfill with vermicullitte or lecce or some other product. My chimney breast is built inside a wall with a 150mm full filled cavity and a 150mm quinnlite blcok. I presume this doesnt matter as it is the clay pipe that is the problem here. Anyway thanks again for advice I will have to go and talk to some stove suppliers although to-date I've been reliably told that my clay pipe liner is the business and all I need to due is install a reducer from stove to liner and off I go!! No issue of condensate or reduced efficiency!!!


  • Registered Users Posts: 290 ✭✭Antiquo


    creedp wrote: »
    Im so confused at this point Im not sure where to go from here. For instance can I just install a liner and not insulate or should I insulate with rockwool sleeves or backfill with vermicullitte or lecce or some other product. ---- to-date I've been reliably told that my clay pipe liner is the business and all I need to due is install a reducer from stove to liner and off I go!! No issue of condensate or reduced efficiency!!!

    You know what they say about opinions! Do your research and do it right first time.

    Your existing chimney is fine you need to install a twinwall flue and insulate it. The size of the flue liner is determined by the size of the outlet from the stove. The only construction issue you may have is the size of the opening left for the stove to fit into as I said do you have enough clearance around the stove and hearth in front.

    A flue needs an insulated liner because the flue gasses from a stove are cooler than an open fire. With an insulated liner the gasses remain warm and rise thus providing sufficient draw and removing the combustion gases from the chimney. Also the gasses quickly warm the liner and this prevents condensation which gradually leads to tar build up. Micafil, Chimwrap and K-Wrap insulation would be most installer choices in the UK.

    Two flexi flue liner types are 316L Stainless and 904L Stainless

    Installers in the UK prefer to use 904L for ranges and boiler stoves as these are slower to heat up and as such can cause condensate in this initial period. The 904L is more expensive but has a greater resistance to Sulphuric Acid and you can get 20 year guarantee on the product.

    The 316L is primarily used for wood and multifuel non boiler. IMO if you are going to spend money do it right the first time get the best 904L you can get sit back and wait for next winter.

    I've seen some liners on DoneDeal and the like for €100 personally wouldn't waste my time. Some recommend Docherty but then some of the UK guys think its muck. Most agree on Midtherm or Specflue this is one supplier in the UK who does them I'm sure there are others if you google.

    http://www.fluesystems.com/liners/info/chimney_liner.htm

    When a stove is piped into a normal clay flue with an adapter the gasses quickly cool and can fail to rise causing CO to leak back from the stove especially at night when low burning. Also the gasses cannot warm the clay flue and quickly form condensate and cause tar build up. This can quickly penetrate the flue and chimney breast causing stains. More concerning is the build up of tar can cause a ferocious chimney fire which may result in structural damage to the chimney stack and or fire penetration into the house.


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,472 ✭✭✭creedp


    Thanks for the very informative reply Antiquo. I agree with you re: multipe threads on this as I have only came across this one last night and found it extremely helpful and confusing at the same time. Btw i came across antother thread in the DIY forum this morning and saw your comment there and replied to it. This reply here is basically a copy and paste as I don't have the technical know how to link threads (probably should visit the computer forum also!!) Personally I didn't access the DIY forum on Boards before yesterday as I thought the C&P forum would be more appropriate to new builds and anyway I wouldn't consider installing a stove to be a DIY job! - That's just me by the way!

    Its all starting to look a bit clearer now thats the these threads and it seems the std process is to line and insulate the existing chimney and vent stove preferably from the top. Im just going ot have to pick another fight with builder on this and get him to install this stuff - he won't be happy having to remove the birdcage on top of chimney!!

    bty I was interested in the discussion earlier in this thread concerning the pro and cons of cast iron -v- steel stoves. Anyone got anything to add on this. Like a lot of people and it seems retailers of these stoves I didn't even know there was such a debate not to mind issues such as proper installation.

    A family member recently installed a stove using a professional and it was simply bunged into an existing fireplace with absolutely no space around it or in front, presumably vented from the rear and definitely no chimney liner! Why is that the norm in this country?

    Thanks again


  • Registered Users Posts: 1 Waller353


    Hi there I have a Mulberry beckett stove with a back boiler has any one come across the boiler starting to leak after a few years . I started to fix it so if any one has any ideas send me a message thanks


  • Registered Users Posts: 21 vicar1


    hello Folks,
    has anyone used a Waterford Stanley Shamrock stove. I have just bought a second hand one, hope to use it for central heating - has anybody used one or know where I might get the instructions ? Thanks!


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  • Registered Users Posts: 100 ✭✭coolclogher


    Hi Folks,

    I have a Stanley Solid solid Fuel stove in my shed for a good number of years, not sure what make ( it is on the small side), is anyone aware of anybody out there that reconditions these stoves? The better half is talking about installing a new one in the living room and I am wondering is it worth looking at.
    Any help comments appreciated. I live in Kerry.


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