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STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

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Comments

  • #2702
    paulmce
    Registered Users Posts: 6 ✭paulmce


    paulmce wrote: »
    Hi,

    I'm going to be installing an insert boiler stove and just wondering if anyone has any idea on what the Heat Design 18kw boiler insert is like (link below)?
    http://heatdesign.ie/heat-design-18kw-insert-boiler

    I know it is fairly new but company has been around for a while so any info is appreciated..

    How would it compare to say the Henley Achill boiler stove or has anyone got any better recommendations for around the same price range as these (they are around 1200-1300 for the stove itself)

    Anyone have any info on Heat Design? suppliers say they have been around a while and are good, would like to hear from owners of either heat design insert or henley achill insert stoves?


  • #2703
    tsue921i8wljb3
    Closed Accounts Posts: 5,017 ✭✭✭tsue921i8wljb3


    theMAC wrote: »
    Hi all,

    I am looking a fitting a Morso S50 this winter. I am getting some mad prices for the fit of the Stove and External Flue system. Can anyone recommend a fitter / installer in the North Dublin / Meath area I can contact for a price for supply and fit of the internal and External Flue system.

    I'd say I am looking at about 1 Meter of internal flue to a double wall flue at 45 degrees through the wall. Once through the wall, it would be about 3 meters to the roof and them about 1 meter more.... With the prices I have been getting I have been thinking of fitting the stove myself, but it would be great to find someone that can do it at a reasonable cost.

    It would be nice to get a few prices together. If you know anyone please feel free to let me know via PM.

    Thanks all,

    Kevin

    I am looking at doing something similar. If you don't mind could you list some of the quotes you were given? Was it all inclusive or would you purchase the Morso separately? Thanks.


  • #2704
    theMAC
    Registered Users Posts: 38 ✭theMAC


    Rosa Gigantic Rationalization wrote: »
    I am looking at doing something similar. If you don't mind could you list some of the quotes you were given? Was it all inclusive or would you purchase the Morso separately? Thanks.

    PM on the way


  • #2705
    daidan
    Registered Users Posts: 1 ✭daidan


    Apologies if this has been asked before.

    Am in a 3 bed semi detached with GFCH and open fire in sitting room. We are looking at stove options and had originally planned to go with boiler stove and have dual system installed. However, we have been told that to get a dry stove and keep GFCH separate would be sufficient heat the house as the radiant heat from stove would keep house nice and cosy.

    With this in mind, am currently researching the Boru Carraig Beag. Has anyone any experience of this stove and if so, is your house warm with it or just the room it it in. The room in which it will be installed has double doors into kitchen/dining

    Thanks


  • #2706
    sept09baby
    Registered Users Posts: 689 ✭✭✭sept09baby


    Looking for some advice please boardsies. Driving myself demented looking at stoves.

    Have my heart set on getting a boiler stove installed but know it's a big job, especially as I have a sealed system.

    Think basically the jobs required will be:

    1) Remove fireback and create space for stove to sit in
    2) Run pipes up the side of the chimney breast and across to the hotpress (pipes will be between ceiling and under the wardrobes upstairs)
    3) Change system to open vented and connect boiler

    I've attached pics of my current set up and the one I'd like. Is it really an impossible task or hugely expensive??


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  • #2707
    paulmce
    Registered Users Posts: 6 ✭paulmce


    I have been looking into stove efficiencies a lot recently and people comparing stoves to open fires, there seems to be a lot of people that support the fact that your inset (non-boiler) stove is approx 3 times more efficient than open fire.

    So therefore for the same amount of heat you use approx 1/3 of the fuel, in practice it seems that this is approximately correct thinking.

    I have not found any information from people that put in boiler stoves as to how much fuel they use for the same heat output.

    I know this is slightly harder to figure out as it depends on the stove outputs etc.

    My (very simplistic) view is that for a bucket of coal you get ~20% heat to room from open file (without back boiler).
    Therefore if a boiler stove is still 3 times more efficient, then for that exact same bucket of coal (based on most boiler stoves having approx 2/3 of heat output to radiators) then u get 1/3 of that heat to room (same as open fire) and the other 2/3 that would have went up the chimney is now going to radiators for heat in rest of house (or at least some of the radiators).

    So 'in theory' you could use the same fuel and gain some heat to the rest of house. :D

    In practice from people that have installed boiler stoves is this the case or would you find you are using much more fuel?

    Is this thinking anywhere near or way off? :confused:


  • #2708
    martinr5232
    Registered Users Posts: 2,298 ✭✭✭martinr5232


    paulmce wrote: »
    I have been looking into stove efficiencies a lot recently and people comparing stoves to open fires, there seems to be a lot of people that support the fact that your inset (non-boiler) stove is approx 3 times more efficient than open fire.

    So therefore for the same amount of heat you use approx 1/3 of the fuel, in practice it seems that this is approximately correct thinking.

    I have not found any information from people that put in boiler stoves as to how much fuel they use for the same heat output.

    I know this is slightly harder to figure out as it depends on the stove outputs etc.

    My (very simplistic) view is that for a bucket of coal you get ~20% heat to room from open file (without back boiler).
    Therefore if a boiler stove is still 3 times more efficient, then for that exact same bucket of coal (based on most boiler stoves having approx 2/3 of heat output to radiators) then u get 1/3 of that heat to room (same as open fire) and the other 2/3 that would have went up the chimney is now going to radiators for heat in rest of house (or at least some of the radiators).

    So 'in theory' you could use the same fuel and gain some heat to the rest of house. :D

    In practice from people that have installed boiler stoves is this the case or would you find you are using much more fuel?

    Is this thinking anywhere near or way off? :confused:


    I have wondered about this aswell if its a room heater will you use approx two thirds less fuel than an open fire ???


  • #2709
    HeidiHeidi
    Registered Users Posts: 28,756 ✭✭✭✭HeidiHeidi


    martinr5232 wrote: »
    I have wondered about this aswell if its a room heater will you use approx two thirds less fuel than an open fire ???

    I've just installed a room heater in front of an open fireplace - and I'm using a fraction of the fuel I used to !

    But the other difference is that while you need to constantly feed an open grate - a log wouldn't burn on its own, you needed sticks or briquettes or something to keep it going, and briquettes - at least two at a time required - on their own burned out in half an hour - once you get the stove up and running, I can literally put one briquette in and it'll burn for an hour. I'm mostly using eco-logs and briquettes (about 70/30), and again, once you have the stove up to full heat an eco-log will burn at a low setting for about 2-3 hours. So unlike an open fire, you can load it up and leave it for hours, come back and it'll still be going strong.

    Only in since last week, so not very scientific I'm afraid as I'm still getting the hang of it really - but I'm seriously impressed so far :D


  • #2710
    whowantstwoknow
    Registered Users Posts: 754 ✭✭✭whowantstwoknow


    Shiny Christmas Mugs wrote: »
    Can you post up pictures of your fireplace?

    Is it able to take a stove / fire? A lot of those Gas Fireplaces are not as they are not split and not set in concrete so will just crack once you light a fire / stove.

    Best option for efficiency would be an inset stove if your hearth couldn't take a free standing stove but the mantle would either need to be able to take it and or have sufficient distance from the stove itself.

    A fire / stove is capable of heating radiators if there is a back boiler. Is there one?


    Not true.

    All fireplaces are not the same. A lot of fireplaces put in for Gas fires may not have the correct flue for an open fire or stove and the fireplace surround / hearth may not be capable of taking the heat generated from an open fire or stove.
    whowantstwoknow wrote: »
    Hi all,

    Currently have a living room with an unused decorative gas fire in a fireplace and a chimney balloon to prevent draughts. The house has gas CH and this room has 2 radiators.

    My better half wants to remove the gas device and use solid fuels in the fireplace. I would be concerned about the efficiency of just having an open fire so am looking at options to converse heat and costs, these include:

    1) When fire not in use, perhaps install something like the chimney draught stop

    2) or an insert stove that should provide more efficiency? There might be an issue here with installation due to the design of the fireplace. I dont see the stove heating rads etc, just the room which is aprox 5mx4m with a large window and a single & double doors. Its also south facing.

    I think she just likes the idea of the open fire as oppose to generating heat going by my typical gas bills!!

    My last option that I'm contemplating is to trade in the better half...could be easier all round!!!

    Thanks for any ideas or suggestions.

    W.

    Sorry only just picking this back up now. I've attached pictures of the fireplace and hearth. The gas fire has been disconnected, just havent taken the decorative gas fire out until we decided what to do. The fireplace wasnt specifically put in for a gas fire, other houses in the estate use it as an OF. I know the ceramic fireback will need to be replaced.

    House has gas CH, and the room has 2 radiators, so its not a case of having to heat the room, but the other half wants a real fire etc. My main interest is a proper installation of an efficient solution, ie dont want the heat always going up the chimney even when its not lit :)

    Like others am getting conflicting advice, some say you cant put a stove in (due to the wooden surround) and others say you can as you wont need a large stove (ie 4/5Kw). Room is approx 5mx4m with a double & single doors for access.

    With whats in place the most non disruptive option that has been suggested is to "square" off the front with a metal plate and then place an insert stove.

    If such a stove in the 4/5Kw range is suitable can anybody recommend a brand/model.

    All advice and feedback would be welcomed.

    Thanks
    W.


  • #2711
    Fink24
    Registered Users Posts: 2 ✭Fink24


    Hi guys,

    Just had a hamco glendine 10kw boiler stove installed, along with three rads, two smaller and one larger (bathroom, bedroom, small rads and the larger one in the kitchen.)

    The radiators and hot water are perfect, fantastic heat and loads of water whenever I want it. The problem I have is the room where the stove itself in doesn't seem all that warm. The stoves lights relatively easily and is easy to maintain however, there seems to be very little heat coming from it, despite all the reports of it being so hot the doors and windows will have to be left open. I'm aware that because it's a boiler stove that 2/3's of the power are used by the boiler, but comparatively, the room with a small rad, 500x800 stelrad k2, has nearly double the heat of the room with the rad and the rooms are of a similar size. Surely this can't be right?

    I've been burning ecobrite stove fuel, and following there instructions, but I just can't seem to get much heat from the stove itself. The chimney breast feels a little warm where the adapter was inserting into the existing clay flue but not overly so, and only at the join point, not the whole way up, and our plumber is confident that the flue is fine. He said we have a strong pull on the chimney which may be pulling some heat out?

    Any thoughts or ideas on this would be greatly appreciated.


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  • #2712
    martinr5232
    Registered Users Posts: 2,298 ✭✭✭martinr5232


    Fink24 wrote: »
    Hi guys,

    Just had a hamco glendine 10kw boiler stove installed, along with three rads, two smaller and one larger (bathroom, bedroom, small rads and the larger one in the kitchen.)

    The radiators and hot water are perfect, fantastic heat and loads of water whenever I want it. The problem I have is the room where the stove itself in doesn't seem all that warm. The stoves lights relatively easily and is easy to maintain however, there seems to be very little heat coming from it, despite all the reports of it being so hot the doors and windows will have to be left open. I'm aware that because it's a boiler stove that 2/3's of the power are used by the boiler, but comparatively, the room with a small rad, 500x800 stelrad k2, has nearly double the heat of the room with the rad and the rooms are of a similar size. Surely this can't be right?

    I've been burning ecobrite stove fuel, and following there instructions, but I just can't seem to get much heat from the stove itself. The chimney breast feels a little warm where the adapter was inserting into the existing clay flue but not overly so, and only at the join point, not the whole way up, and our plumber is confident that the flue is fine. He said we have a strong pull on the chimney which may be pulling some heat out?

    Any thoughts or ideas on this would be greatly appreciated.

    Are you sure that stove is big enough for what you need i dont know much about them to be honest but it sounds small to me if two thirds goes to the boilet that only leaves you with about three kw to heat your room.

    Im putting one in my sitting room shortly just a room heater and was advised to put in a five or six kw one and my sitting room is not that big.


  • #2713
    Fink24
    Registered Users Posts: 2 ✭Fink24


    The plumber reckons it should be fine, the room is only 13'x11' and 8' high, and the house is extremely well insulated, most of the the online calculators said I would be grand with 2kw or above for the room. The stove seems perfectly functional given the heat for the rads and water but there just seems to be no heat in the room its in.


  • #2714
    chopper6
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 3,214 ✭✭✭chopper6


    whowantstwoknow wrote: »
    Sorry only just picking this back up now. I've attached pictures of the fireplace and hearth. The gas fire has been disconnected, just havent taken the decorative gas fire out until we decided what to do. The fireplace wasnt specifically put in for a gas fire, other houses in the estate use it as an OF. I know the ceramic fireback will need to be replaced.

    House has gas CH, and the room has 2 radiators, so its not a case of having to heat the room, but the other half wants a real fire etc. My main interest is a proper installation of an efficient solution, ie dont want the heat always going up the chimney even when its not lit :)

    Like others am getting conflicting advice, some say you cant put a stove in (due to the wooden surround) and others say you can as you wont need a large stove (ie 4/5Kw). Room is approx 5mx4m with a double & single doors for access.

    With whats in place the most non disruptive option that has been suggested is to "square" off the front with a metal plate and then place an insert stove.

    If such a stove in the 4/5Kw range is suitable can anybody recommend a brand/model.

    All advice and feedback would be welcomed.

    Thanks
    W.


    My advice would be the Stanley Oisin 6kw model.


    They're an extremely durable an efficient stove and small enough to fit into the opening without compromising the wooden sorround.


  • #2715
    mojo1979
    Registered Users Posts: 5 ✭mojo1979


    GY A1 wrote: »
    show us a pic :D

    Here's the little Beaut.


  • #2716
    waynefromclane
    Registered Users Posts: 5 ✭waynefromclane


    Hi,

    I have bought a really nice antique stove, and am faced with a problem in fitting it. The Outlet at the back of the stove is 4" diameter. I want to set it in front of a fireplace and to use flexi flue liner, register plate, vermiculite etc. to vent up the chimney. To use 6" flue liner, can I run 4" vitreous enamelled pipe from the back of the stove to an adapter at the register plate. The adapter will increase to 6" on the other side to connect with the flexi liner. Is that allowed/acceptable, or do I need to find an adapter to fit the back of the stove, and then run 6" enamelled vitreous pipe to the register plate?

    The first option is easier as I have sourced the necessary items quite easily. The second option looks like it will involve someone making the adapter which might takes some time and difficulty to source. I will do whichever is correct regardless of time or cost, but I can't find a definitive answer anywhere.

    The fitters/ builders who have quoted for the job have no idea; half of them said there was no need for vermiculite insulation, and one said there was no need for flexi flue as the chimney had a great pull!

    The stove vents out the back, and stove and adapter are pictured below

    Any and all opinions gratefully received.

    Thanks,

    Wayne

    5342a.jpg
    5%20TO%206%20ADAPTOR%20new%20size-228x228.jpg


  • #2717
    whowantstwoknow
    Registered Users Posts: 754 ✭✭✭whowantstwoknow


    chopper6 wrote: »
    My advice would be the Stanley Oisin 6kw model.


    They're an extremely durable an efficient stove and small enough to fit into the opening without compromising the wooden sorround.

    Thanks, I'll have to double check the measurements. Once the ceramic fireback (from the old gas fire) is removed, would there be enough room to fit (depth wise) this type of stove? Does another fireback (cement?) need to put in? Sorry for the stupid questions, but I've no experience with stoves/chimneys..other than cleaning them :rolleyes:

    If recessed into the opening, would the heat make its way out into the room or just be going straight up the chimney, ie how does it connect to the chimney so as to prevent draughts etc

    Just speaking to my mother and from her experience said to get an enamel finish to aid cleaning etc...

    Thanks for all your advice/feedback

    W.


  • #2718
    onesoma
    Registered Users Posts: 76 ✭✭onesoma


    Hi,

    I'll be installing an Oisin soon. I have a 90 degree vitrous pipe, and a 500mm straight vitreous pipe.

    The question I have is in relation to the connection between the stove (the 'flue spigot' as described in the manual) and the vitreous enamel pipe - the 125mm vitreous pipe does not mate well with the back of the stove.

    Should the vitreous pipe connect directly to the flue spigot on the stove, or do I need another adapter that ensures a good fit between the flue spigot and the vitreous pipe?

    The manual http://www.waterfordstanley.com/media/200805/oisinsf.pdf mentions 'Push the flue connector pipe (not supplied) into the flue spigot ...'

    A similar topic was discussed before which mentioned the large gap when attaching the 125mm vitreous pipe to the back of the oisin:
    http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2056390351&page=169

    I have fire rope and fire cement which I imagine would be sufficient to seal the large gap between the rear of the stove and the 125mm pipe. The lack of a good connection doesn't seem correct from an engineering point of view though.


  • #2719
    chopper6
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 3,214 ✭✭✭chopper6


    whowantstwoknow wrote: »
    Thanks, I'll have to double check the measurements. Once the ceramic fireback (from the old gas fire) is removed, would there be enough room to fit (depth wise) this type of stove? Does another fireback (cement?) need to put in? Sorry for the stupid questions, but I've no experience with stoves/chimneys..other than cleaning them :rolleyes:

    If recessed into the opening, would the heat make its way out into the room or just be going straight up the chimney, ie how does it connect to the chimney so as to prevent draughts etc

    Just speaking to my mother and from her experience said to get an enamel finish to aid cleaning etc...

    Thanks for all your advice/feedback

    W.


    This is the pic after the stove was installed.

    The back of the fireplace was removed and a section cut from the sorround.

    It was joined to the existing flue using a pipe with a reducer bend and was flued using flue liner to two metres until it joined the chimney flue proper.

    As you can see,the whole unit is pretty compact.

    284812.jpg


  • #2720
    MugMugs
    Registered Users Posts: 17,875 ✭✭✭✭MugMugs


    She's very proud on that hearth. Any issues with burnt flooring?


  • #2721
    chopper6
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 3,214 ✭✭✭chopper6


    Shiny Christmas Mugs wrote: »
    She's very proud on that hearth. Any issues with burnt flooring?



    Not at all...the hearth is solid granite,it doesnt even feel hot.


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  • #2722
    MugMugs
    Registered Users Posts: 17,875 ✭✭✭✭MugMugs


    chopper6 wrote: »
    Not at all...the hearth is solid granite,it doesnt even feel hot.

    I meant moreso when you open the door and hot ash spills out ?


  • #2723
    chopper6
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 3,214 ✭✭✭chopper6


    Shiny Christmas Mugs wrote: »
    I meant moreso when you open the door and hot ash spills out ?

    No..i see what you mean...the perspective is lost in the pic...there's about 4" of hearth beyond the stove facing outwards so nothing like that as a problem.


  • #2724
    guideanna
    Registered Users Posts: 492 ✭✭guideanna


    Hi All,

    i have a double sided Firebelly2 stove (multifuel)wood-burning--multi-fuel-stoves.html


    I'm not 100% confident that it has been fitted correctly.

    Our plumber did it at the time other work was being carried out but i've been having a number of issues over the last year or so.

    On windy days there is a serious breeze coming through the vents at the top of the stove, i try closing the vents but it doesn't make a huge difference.

    If it's raining heavily sometime water will get into the stove and dampen newspapers etc that have been sitting in it when unlit.

    Also when i open the door the smoke escapes very quickly into the room and so i can only open it very quickly to re-fill or i will be choked with the smell and smoke.

    I've done a bit of reading up and theres so much info about correct flue diameters, checking inserts, incorrect air draw and to be honest it's all a bit over my head.

    Does anyone have any idea if this sounds like incorrect fitting issue or is this the norm with stoves as i never had one before?


  • #2725
    Tzardine
    Registered Users Posts: 3,884 ✭✭✭Tzardine


    Hi all,

    I am looking for some help if you could. I am moving into a new house in January that has oil heating and a solid fuel stove with back boiler in the sitting room.

    I know absolutely nothing about stoves. I have had a quick look at the thread but it is so large. I wonder if I could ask a few quick questions.

    I have seen the stove, its a big beast but I dont know the brand of it etc.Its fairly new looking in a modern enough house. I will try get a picture and load it up here later.
    • Can you put peat / coal in them or is it just wood
    • What happens if you use the stove and oil at the same time. Will I blow up my house ? :)
    • Will a stove just heat the room it is in or will they typically be powerful enough to heat the house.


    Cheers folks


  • #2726
    Wallacebiy
    Registered Users Posts: 178 ✭✭Wallacebiy


    Hi

    I have a quick Question

    In my place I moved into eight years ago there was only a little electric fire in the fireplace , set in a cast iron screw on backing

    I Rebuilt the Fireplace a little with slate on the Wall to accommodate a new Inset stove , However the old back boiler is in the way for the inset stove I bought ( A Heritage Dunmore ) I'm short about 30mm to set it in against the slate on the wall.
    I'm also going to have to level the floor of the fire ( someone had lumped bonding and concrete in a slope in there ) So I'm probably going to raise a step of 30mm or so in there .


    What's the best thing to do about my 30mm depth problem ? Is there a draught excluder material I could fit around the stove to build up the 30 mm , or should I build out on the slate to meet the Stove ?


    Cheers for any suggestions !!


  • #2727
    onesoma
    Registered Users Posts: 76 ✭✭onesoma


    Wallacebiy wrote: »
    However the old back boiler is in the way for the inset stove I bought

    Has the back boiler been decommissioned? If not, don't do anything else until you decommission it.

    Putting a stove in front of a back boiler that hasn't been decommisioned is dangerous:
    http://www.hse.gov.uk/services/localgovernment/boilers.htm


  • #2728
    Wallacebiy
    Registered Users Posts: 178 ✭✭Wallacebiy


    onesoma wrote: »
    Has the back boiler been decommissioned? If not, don't do anything else until you decommission it.

    Putting a stove in front of a back boiler that hasn't been decommisioned is dangerous:
    http://www.hse.gov.uk/services/localgovernment/boilers.htm

    I'd better check that so ....



    balls ...


  • #2729
    whowantstwoknow
    Registered Users Posts: 754 ✭✭✭whowantstwoknow


    chopper6 wrote: »
    No..i see what you mean...the perspective is lost in the pic...there's about 4" of hearth beyond the stove facing outwards so nothing like that as a problem.

    Thanks for the pic. I'd rather get an insert stove if possible. I'd be more worried with the kids if a free standing one was out in the open. One retailer has mentioned if a custom metal sheet was installed to square off the my cast iron insert (see pics). It seems this would be the least amount of work, but worried about the longterm viability of this metal with the heat?

    Otherwise its a case of:

    1) remove fireplace to install a flat insert to allow stove to fit tight & replace wooden surround

    2) do above but either leave out the surround and replace with a stone finish

    or do nothing!!! Is there any other option that wont cost an arm and a leg?

    I'm getting so many different opinions from retailers, you just dont know who to believe when it comes to a safe installation/proper job

    Thanks
    W.


  • #2730
    Wallacebiy
    Registered Users Posts: 178 ✭✭Wallacebiy


    onesoma wrote: »
    Has the back boiler been decommissioned? If not, don't do anything else until you decommission it.

    Putting a stove in front of a back boiler that hasn't been decommisioned is dangerous:
    http://www.hse.gov.uk/services/localgovernment/boilers.htm



    It would appear that the Back Boiler is still connected to the hot water tank


    I'm soul destroyed by this ....


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  • #2731
    MugMugs
    Registered Users Posts: 17,875 ✭✭✭✭MugMugs


    Wallacebiy wrote: »
    It would appear that the Back Boiler is still connected to the hot water tank


    I'm soul destroyed by this ....

    I wish I had your problem.

    Would you not consider a boiler stove and heat your home off of it ?


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