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Ski tow. Glen L

  • 15-10-2014 10:07pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 12


    Sorry Fergal for joining up on another Thread! Would you believe I am A computer Newbie and didnt even know how to start a thread!

    Any advice on my journey? Is there any biggie I should avoid?

    Id also be seriously interested in a motor like that!


Comments

  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 6,320 Mod ✭✭✭✭fergal.b


    Theres not much advice I can give you on your journey, if you are willing to put in the time and effort everything else will come to you :) if you are going for the classic look start looking for your hardware now things like windscreen brackets can go for silly money http://www.ebay.com/itm/Shepherd-Boat-Vintage-Windshield-Bracket-Parts-Rechromed-August-13-/321207968939?pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&hash=item4ac97ca4ab&vxp=mtr I was not willing to spend more than $100 for mine and it took a while to get them for that price. Keep an eye out for a donor boat that you can use a lot of parts like the trailer,steering,control box and so on as for the engine if you can find one of the mercury red,blue or brown bands then you can buy the chrome cowling and faceplate to make it look like the old mercs.
    I got a bit carried away buying parts for mine :D

    DSC00827.jpg


  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 6,320 Mod ✭✭✭✭fergal.b


    If you are ever out my way "North Co.Dublin" your more than welcome to have a look at the crackerbox and have a chat, unfortunately the Malahini is now socking up the sun at Wineport down on lough Ree. :(

    2d5187b0-295a-420c-8953-b5b3127a8334_zps68a26bb8.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 12 nedkelly111


    Hi,

    Beautiful picture! Gives me hope.

    At the moment just installing the chines. First one went on , no cracking after using towels and boiling water.

    Slightly apprehensive about the joint of the chine and the frames, big gap until I either fair or fill the angle in with some blocking!

    Good fun though, now worrying about the panelling process. The Glen L booklet makes it all look very simple, but if it was it wouldn't be fun!


  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 6,320 Mod ✭✭✭✭fergal.b


    Great to hear you are still at it I thought I'd lost you there for a moment :D







    .


  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 6,320 Mod ✭✭✭✭fergal.b


    If you built your transom for a short shaft this is the same as the engine I used, might be worth a look as it comes with controls http://www.donedeal.ie/boatextras-for-sale/mercury-50-hp-outboard-and-control-box/8165809



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  • Registered Users Posts: 12 nedkelly111


    Hi fergal

    Did u use 1/4 inch or 1/2 inch ply for bottom ?

    Is 1/4 strong enough?


  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 6,320 Mod ✭✭✭✭fergal.b


    Hi fergal

    Did u use 1/4 inch or 1/2 inch ply for bottom ?

    Is 1/4 strong enough?


    I used 1/4 and toughened it up with heavier cloth on the bottom than the sides, you will be surprised how strong it is, you can also use 3/8 if you are worried about it, 1/2 would be to hard to bend.




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  • Registered Users Posts: 12 nedkelly111


    Hi Fergal,

    What weight fibreglass fabric for the bottom and sides?

    Cheers


  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 6,320 Mod ✭✭✭✭fergal.b


    Hi Fergal,

    What weight fibreglass fabric for the bottom and sides?

    Cheers

    I used 4 ounce for the sides and 6 ounce for the bottom, if you are going to paint the whole boat then go with 6oz but if you want the wood to show through use the 4oz.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 12 nedkelly111


    Hi Fergal,

    Slow progress over Christmas, but have both sides plywood now, am doing bottom tonight.
    Supplier of fibreglass suggested Polyester resin for the fibreglass fabric, instead of epoxy; any thoughts?

    Also looking at trailers and engines and donor boats; what engine size minimum would you recommend?
    And would you suggest slides or rollers on the trailer?
    Would the ply bottom support the boat on rollers?

    Cheers


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  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 6,320 Mod ✭✭✭✭fergal.b


    I think epoxy is easier to work with for a beginner as it wont cure as fast as polyester also if your working close to your house polyester can stink the place out and I think epoxy is better at gluing and waterproofing whether it's worth the extra cost it's up to you.
    The best trailer for wooden boats are bunks as they spread the weight more.
    As for the engine I would go for 25 - 50 hp leaning more towards the 50 :D although she will potter along with a 10 - 20 hp if thats what you want.



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  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 6,320 Mod ✭✭✭✭fergal.b


    I did use a roller trailer on my other boat but I added extra rollers along the keel so the side rollers were just used as a bit of support.

    DSC00708.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 12 nedkelly111


    Looks great!
    I managed to get really nice windshield brackets on e bay for $100; They are really nice

    My bottom sheets of plywood from the transom forward are ending on the 2nd frame;; I know that they say not to end the panelling on a frame; but I cant see any other way of doing it. Do you think I should add extra blocking?

    I cant put up a picture.


  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 6,320 Mod ✭✭✭✭fergal.b


    If you finish on a frame the joint may be under stress as it curves to the shape of the boat you want the join to end up between two frames where the least amount of curve is put on it. I butt jointed two lengths putting a bit of fiberglass cloth over what will be the inside.


    DSC00562.jpg
    DSC00564.jpg

    This is the outside of the joint, when I was gluing them together I lay the join on a strip of smooth plastic this gives a nice finish and allows the epoxy to seep into the plywood also the wood wont stick to the plastic.

    DSC00566.jpg


    The inside with the cloth strip.


    DSC00568.jpg

    The joint is in the same place in the bottom planking.


    DSC00575.jpg


  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 6,320 Mod ✭✭✭✭fergal.b




  • Registered Users Posts: 12 nedkelly111


    Hi Fergal,

    Just about to cover in Epoxy and cloth.

    Tell me, did you put on a spray rail? if so what timber did you use?

    Cheers

    Niall


  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 6,320 Mod ✭✭✭✭fergal.b


    Best of luck. I did plan to put spray rails on mine but after using her I found most of the spray went out to the sides anyway so I didn't bother in the end :) I would have used iroko or mahogany.

    SeanNossmall.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 12 nedkelly111


    Fergal,

    Looking at engines etc at moment. Id like to go for something around 50hp mark. Its hard to get something that size with electric trim. Do you think that electric trim and tilt would be important? I have another boat, a sports fisher, where its critical to have it.
    What you think?

    Boat is glassed all over now, putting on a suitable bottom coat at present, and nearly ready to turn over.

    Cheers

    Niall


  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 6,320 Mod ✭✭✭✭fergal.b


    Up to 50 hp they are light enough to pull up by hand, these boats are light and have quite a flat bottom so they get up on the plane no problem. Once I set the trim on mine I never had to touch it again so unless you will be using your boat in very shallow water I wouldn't worry about it too much.




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  • Registered Users Posts: 12 nedkelly111


    Hi fergal

    Have put up a little site nedkelly3935.com showing progress to date. Am putting in the dash at present.
    No donor boat or engine yet.

    Boat turned over safely!


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  • Registered Users Posts: 12 nedkelly111


    Fergal,
    Thanks for the post on the website.
    Can I ask where did u get small polished angle and half round strips in Ireland; the trim strips; or did u use them at all?


  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 6,320 Mod ✭✭✭✭fergal.b


    Fergal,
    Thanks for the post on the website.
    Can I ask where did u get small polished angle and half round strips in Ireland; the trim strips; or did u use them at all?

    If you are talking about the strips on the crackerbox around the engine bay I got them in B&Q and the rounded stuff is just P.V.C car trim you can get in most motor factors or ebay I got mine in Lidi :) you can get the real half round strips from Marineparts but they are very expensive.

    sliver-high-adhesive-chrome-car-trim-auto-body-molding.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 12 nedkelly111


    Hi Fergal,

    Just finished the motor well and the flooring. I found the two side flooring pieces tricky to get the right profile, but done now.

    Got a nice 30 hp Johnson, and steering system etc, and a nice set of old gauges.

    Question re covering boards. I am looking at the decking next. Is the ply enough to get a really good finish on with epoxy? Is that what you used?
    Did you stain different sections? How did you do the lines?
    Looking at some of the other boats, the idea of mahogany covering boards looks nice, but slow and tricky!

    thanks for your advice,

    Niall


  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 6,320 Mod ✭✭✭✭fergal.b


    On my Malahini I just stained the ply and used white car striping for the caulking then a few coats of epoxy and then schooner Gold varnish to give it a yellow tint. Here are some photos http://s753.photobucket.com/user/fergalbutler/library/malahini%201?sort=3&page=1&postlogin=true



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