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Advise on Home cinema Setup

Comments

  • #2
    SeanFrank
    Registered Users Posts: 86 ✭✭SeanFrank


    Do you absolutely need to place the screen in front of the window? Would there be much light from it? It won't effect the screen but you don't want too much light around the screen or it will wash out the picture.

    Also, a must-use for anyone putting up a projector is the projectorcentral calculator. It'll tell you exactly what throw distance to expect for any projector: (Sorry, new user = no links!)
    http ://www .projectorcentral. com/projection-calculator-pro.cfm


  • #3
    Skatedude
    Registered Users Posts: 2,674 ✭✭✭Skatedude


    For me, that projector would be a no no, it's rated at 30 Db noise level in low lamp mode which would be far too loud for a small room. Ok for gaming etc. but the noise would be distracting during films.
    You could make a hush box to keep it in to reduce the noise level. not too difficult if you have basic carpentry skills.

    If i were you, i would rent a projector and screen to try out first.


  • #4
    superleedsdub
    Registered Users Posts: 362 ✭✭superleedsdub


    Skatedude wrote: »
    For me, that projector would be a no no, it's rated at 30 Db noise level in low lamp mode which would be far too loud for a small room. Ok for gaming etc. but the noise would be distracting during films.
    You could make a hush box to keep it in to reduce the noise level. not too difficult if you have basic carpentry skills.

    If i were you, i would rent a projector and screen to try out first.

    I have that projector and the noise is barely noticeable (in all the modes I`ve tested ) especially during a movie -where the noise levels should be loud :-)


  • #5
    superleedsdub
    Registered Users Posts: 362 ✭✭superleedsdub


    SeanFrank wrote: »
    Do you absolutely need to place the screen in front of the window? Would there be much light from it? It won't effect the screen but you don't want too much light around the screen or it will wash out the picture.

    Also, a must-use for anyone putting up a projector is the projectorcentral calculator. It'll tell you exactly what throw distance to expect for any projector: (Sorry, new user = no links!)
    http ://www .projectorcentral. com/projection-calculator-pro.cfm

    The Benq is terrible when there is any ambient light in the room, it is best suited for dark rooms with outside light blocked out


  • #6
    howyegettinon1
    Registered Users Posts: 318 ✭✭howyegettinon1


    superleedsdub wrote: »
    I have that projector and the noise is barely noticeable (in all the modes I`ve tested ) especially during a movie -where the noise levels should be loud :-)

    Mine is very quiet too, haven't bothered me once during films. Also for your screen spend the extra for a motorised one, mine is in the sitting room and goes down in the evening and back up in the morning and its a pain to bring it back up because you could be reefing out of it for 2 minutes sometimes for it to roll back up.


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  • #7
    MHI
    Registered Users Posts: 98 ✭✭MHI


    BobbyT28 wrote: »
    Hi,

    Just looking for some advise on setting up a home cinema in spare bedroom. I am new to the whole home cinema thing and haven't a clue about throw back screen size v distance etc (I'll start reading up on this).

    Room size is 10ft x 8ft

    Not sure I will get this if could I just have the projector sitting on the floor while I use it? Does this affect the screen angle?

    Would I need a screen this big?

    I suppose my questions are, is the room big enough for this setup?

    What size screen would I get if I had the projector 8-9ft away from Screen?

    Screen will be mounted over window and pulled down in front of it? Is this ok would this affect picture quality?

    Primary use would be Vidoe&Gaming (To be honest 70% of the time I will be using this for movies. But as I will be using xbox one for blueray player, would find it hard to resist having a game on a massive screen!)

    Any recommendations on a Surround sound, nothing to expensive around the €200-300

    Thanks in ADVANCE.

    Regards,
    BobbyT28

    Benq is a decent projector at its price point and if you are not affected by RE (rainbow Effect) also look at Epson EHTW5200 which is a Home Cinema and Gaming Projector but its LCD so you won't have to worry about RE.

    Screen: if you can go fixed frame, looks class and gives a really cinema feel to the room, if your worried about light in the room maybe look at using Black Widow Ultra Screen paint.

    Sound: Purchase a AV Receiver and speaker separates, don't go with bog standard home cinema in a box DVD player set ups or soundbars.

    Screen Size you would get 96" to 108" Diagonal so say 100" comfortably.

    Projectors only have so much keystone correction and over use can damage the image, ceiling mount it and use as little keystone as possible.

    Most of all don't buy cheap for the sake of it, put off the sound system until you can afford something good, use the projector speaker(as poor as they are) until you get a few quid together, you'll be surprised how quick you will get money together to finish off your cinema once started.

    hope this helps ;)


  • #8
    SachaJ
    Registered Users Posts: 1,734 ✭✭✭SachaJ


    I'd concur with the above. Buy one piece of decent kit at a time. For instance, if it's just yourself, you could get the projector and screen but buy a set of 5.1 headphones something like the ones I have for when the wife is in bed:
    http://www.amazon.co.uk/Sony-MDRDS6500-CEK-Digital-Surround-Headphones/dp/B004X5JBY4/

    I'd also agree to go fixed frame if you can as it will always be better than a roll down or motorised (especially the cheap ones). Unfortunately in my new house I have to go motorised so can't use my fixed screen. I've gone with a Draper Sesame tab tensioned.

    Rather than what size screen can fit in the room, realistically how far back will you be sitting from the screen? That could potentially determine the size rather than wall size. For instance it's recommended to sit around 1.5 or 1.6 times the screen diagonal away. This might be useful:
    https://www.avforums.com/article/tv-full-hd-ultra-hd-4k-viewing-distance-guide.10704

    Also make sure that you projector can me mounted/located dead centre of the screen on the opposite wall. I don't think that BenQ has lens shift.

    If the screen has to go in front of a window, get black out blinds. Curtains are rarely good enough.


  • #9
    BobbyT28
    Registered Users Posts: 1,435 ✭✭✭BobbyT28


    Hi Guys, just a quick update on my progress or lack of! I have purchased everything now.

    Benq w1070
    90' projector
    Polk TL1600 5.1 surround sound system
    Denon avr x-2000
    Cables are QED 79
    9m HDMI cable
    7m optical cable

    I have everything I want to start planning. I will probably be putting all the equipment under the boiler in a press. Or would I be better putting it along the same wall just in the op
    Osite corner where the little table is in the pic above as all my cat6 wiring is there. I have a 8 port unmanaged switch so it wouldn't be a problem putting the equipment under the boiler.

    Cables:
    Would I be better running cable behind wall and using wallplates for all the speakers or run them along skirting board? I would need pro help as I wouldn't be the best at diy!

    Projector:
    I will be ceiling mounting this about 8.5-9ft from the screen which will give me a throw of 90' should I mount screen first then projector after to judge sizing? I will be using the following ceiling mount
    Vogels EPC 6545 Ceiling Mount for Projector.

    Projector on ceiling:
    Would I be better running a long power lead from a plug socket up into the ceiling a making a hole behind projector and dropping power cable I would also be running the 9m HDMi cable too. Or would I be better getting a plug socket on the ceiling behind the projector?


    Speakers:
    I will be running the 1m off the floor in every corner, is this OK?

    I will have centre speaker under projector either on floor or just raised above floor. Preferably I would like this at eye level when sitting.
    Any advise would be great.

    BobbyT


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


  • #10
    BobbyT28
    Registered Users Posts: 1,435 ✭✭✭BobbyT28


    Anyone??


  • #11
    superleedsdub
    Registered Users Posts: 362 ✭✭superleedsdub


    BobbyT28 wrote: »

    I have everything I want to start planning. I will probably be putting all the equipment under the boiler in a press. Or would I be better putting it along the same wall just in the op
    Osite corner where the little table is in the pic above as all my cat6 wiring is there. I have a 8 port unmanaged switch so it wouldn't be a problem putting the equipment under the boiler.

    I`m not sure what you mean by under the boiler (can`t see any pics in your posts) could you clarify this?
    BobbyT28 wrote: »
    Cables:
    Would I be better running cable behind wall and using wallplates for all the speakers or run them along skirting board? I would need pro help as I wouldn't be the best at diy!

    It will look so much better if you can run all your cabling in behind your walls, no need to have wall plates if your speakers can hide where the hole in the wall where your speaker cables come out
    BobbyT28 wrote: »
    Projector:
    I will be ceiling mounting this about 8.5-9ft from the screen which will give me a throw of 90' should I mount screen first then projector after to judge sizing? I will be using the following ceiling mount
    Vogels EPC 6545 Ceiling Mount for Projector.

    Projector on ceiling:
    Would I be better running a long power lead from a plug socket up into the ceiling a making a hole behind projector and dropping power cable I would also be running the 9m HDMi cable too. Or would I be better getting a plug socket on the ceiling behind the projector?

    Yes, it will look alot better if the plug socket is in the ceiling beside the PJ, however this could be very tricky to achieve as running the power cables may require lifting floorboards, drilling through joists etc..

    BobbyT28 wrote: »
    Speakers:
    I will be running the 1m off the floor in every corner, is this OK?

    I will have centre speaker under projector either on floor or just raised above floor. Preferably I would like this at eye level when sitting.

    How high do you plan to have your screen on the wall? Too high and it may be uncomfortable when viewing


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  • #12
    BobbyT28
    Registered Users Posts: 1,435 ✭✭✭BobbyT28


    superleedsdub wrote: »
    I`m not sure what you mean by under the boiler (can`t see any pics in your posts) could you clarify this?

    Thanks for taking the time to reply. Sorry here is an attached pic of room.



    It will look so much better if you can run all your cabling in behind your walls, no need to have wall plates if your speakers can hide where the hole in the wall where your speaker cables come out

    Yeah was think this myself. All my walls are plasterboard, would I have much trouble running it through there? Would I have to do Pumpkin cuts aong the wall to get the cabling to the speakers?



    Yes, it will look alot better if the plug socket is in the ceiling beside the PJ, however this could be very tricky to achieve as running the power cables may require lifting floorboards, drilling through joists etc..

    Thats my problem. I think this could be a big job. Could I use a feed from the lights on the ceiling (Don't know much about house electrics!:D)


    How high do you plan to have your screen on the wall? Too high and it may be uncomfortable when viewing

    Screen is mounted 7ft or so from Floor so view should be ok when screen is pulled down.


  • #13
    superleedsdub
    Registered Users Posts: 362 ✭✭superleedsdub


    Nice room for a HT:-)

    I was worried about putting your AV equipment in a cupboard under a boiler, as you would need some ventilation. If you use an open rack rather than a cupboard under the boiler then that would be grand. I personally would place the AV equipment in the end of the room where your PJ will be, will make it easier to run HDMI cables to the PJ etc.. especially as this is where your network cables are already run into.

    Are the walls studded or solid? It is a lot easier to run cables into studded walls, if you haven`t much experience of this then I suggest getting a good electrician out to do the job for you, they could also run the electrical socket to the ceiling for you.


  • #14
    BobbyT28
    Registered Users Posts: 1,435 ✭✭✭BobbyT28


    superleedsdub wrote: »
    Nice room for a HT:-)

    I was worried about putting your AV equipment in a cupboard under a boiler, as you would need some ventilation. If you use an open rack rather than a cupboard under the boiler then that would be grand. I personally would place the AV equipment in the end of the room where your PJ will be, will make it easier to run HDMI cables to the PJ etc.. especially as this is where your network cables are already run into.

    Thats anoher option alright as I have the father in-law building a both a press for Boiler and AV equipment seperated by 2 doors and a entertainment unit where the CAT6 stuff is, he is gonna have a false base also so I can hide the cables. If I did decide to use the area under the boler, I think it would be ok. Even though I would have a door on AV equipment I would have it open when using it. I also have Network plugs and a un-managed switch that I would use to connect it to the central point across the room. But yeah I might put the AV stuff beside the CAT cable.

    Are the walls studded or solid? It is a lot easier to run cables into studded walls, if you haven`t much experience of this then I suggest getting a good electrician out to do the job for you, they could also run the electrical socket to the ceiling for you.
    I think they are studded!! (Hoe do you tell? :P:P:P:confused:confused:) HAHA. Yeah I have a name of a good electrican who comes recommended. I take it that any electrician can setup HT wiring . I take that I run my optival and HDMi from PJ to AV unit?

    Thanks again for al the advise. Raring to go but want to make sure I have everything sorted before I start. Just waiting on father in-law to finish the wood work then I can start. Posted on tradsmen also. Have a coupe of sparks coming around to price job. BUt from the advertisment I have been quoted 300 for runing speaker cable for Surround sound, HDMi and optical to PJ and a power point to be added to ceiling beside pj. IS this a good quote without looking at the job?


  • #15
    SachaJ
    Registered Users Posts: 1,734 ✭✭✭SachaJ


    Why are you running an optical cable to the projector?

    Honestly running the cables is a really simple job. As it's a spare bedroom I'd run the cables along the skirting and maybe put some trunking over them (and paint it) if you want to hide them. If it was the main family room I'd recommend burying the cables. In my last sitting room I had white trunking on white walls. Within a few days you forget it's even there.

    Same goes for HDMI and power. I ran all the cables through trunking to my projector.

    Have a go yourself before paying someone. You'll learn a lot....

    I believe the rear surrounds should be at ear height (while standing) and pointed down towards the listening position.

    In my recent house refurb I ran all the cables behind walls to speaker plates and put plugs on the ceiling etc. Fine as the house was ripped to pieces but no way I'd do that otherwise.


  • #16
    BobbyT28
    Registered Users Posts: 1,435 ✭✭✭BobbyT28


    SachaJ wrote: »
    Why are you running an optical cable to the projector?

    Thought I had to. Maybe not as sound will be passed via HDMI.

    Honestly running the cables is a really simple job. As it's a spare bedroom I'd run the cables along the skirting and maybe put some trunking over them (and paint it) if you want to hide them. If it was the main family room I'd recommend burying the cables. In my last sitting room I had white trunking on white walls. Within a few days you forget it's even there.

    Really don't want to run trunking over the skirting boards. Want to run them behind the plasterboard. Hopefully it won't be too bad. Will keep you all posted on my progress.

    Same goes for HDMI and power. I ran all the cables through trunking to my projector.

    Have a go yourself before paying someone. You'll learn a lot....

    +1

    I believe the rear surrounds should be at ear height (while standing) and pointed down towards the listening position.

    Wanted this a little more hidden (wife warning) I was gonna have the 1 meter of floor (ear level while sitting) would that be OK?

    In my recent house refurb I ran all the cables behind walls to speaker plates and put plugs on the ceiling etc. Fine as the house was ripped to pieces but no way I'd do that otherwise.

    ...


  • #17
    SachaJ
    Registered Users Posts: 1,734 ✭✭✭SachaJ


    You don't need sound going to the projector at all. Your video sources (Blu-ray, Sky, media player etc) will be connected to your X2000. The X2000 decodes the sound and sends it to your speakers. You then connect a HDMI between the X2000 and the projector for video.

    I honestly don't know how you're going to get the cables behind the plasterboard. It's fine running them vertically (going up) but not sure how you are going to get the cables across the wall (ie. drilling through the battens).

    Another option is to get special skirting boards with channels cut out for cables.

    I'm sure the speaker heights would be fine...


  • #18
    superleedsdub
    Registered Users Posts: 362 ✭✭superleedsdub


    Here`s an interesting read:

    https://www.avforums.com/threads/finding-joists-for-ceiling-mounting-projector-screen.1919424/#post-21396356

    If you mount the PJ as close to the back wall as possible, then you could put the socket on the wall and not the ceiling as well as your HDMI cable (try separating these as best as possible to avoid interfence, possibly run them either side of a stud) this would save you alot of heartache.

    I personally would avoid trunking as it looks terrible IMO, I would also run a second wire to the PJ for use as a chase wire in case you need to run additional/replacement cables.


  • #19
    Emmo-m-
    Registered Users Posts: 198 ✭✭Emmo-m-


    Any reason why you chose to put the screen over the window and not on the opposite wall? Would suit better there imo.


  • #20
    BobbyT28
    Registered Users Posts: 1,435 ✭✭✭BobbyT28


    Emmo-m- wrote: »
    Any reason why you chose to put the screen over the window and not on the opposite wall? Would suit better there imo.

    Hi Emmo,

    I'm.lucky to be getting this space for my HT in the first place so have to keep the boss happy!! :-)

    But seriously,

    The couch we have doesn't fit inside the alcove so it would have been a waste of space. I know its the same space either way, but just feels like we have more room this way
    May get myself a little desk to fit inside the alcove and when we watch a movie the screen will cover it.

    Haven't started anything yet so open to suggestions and any advise in how to convince the boss to do it this way.!! :-)


  • #21
    BobbyT28
    Registered Users Posts: 1,435 ✭✭✭BobbyT28


    superleedsdub wrote: »
    Here`s an interesting read:

    https://www.avforums.com/threads/finding-joists-for-ceiling-mounting-projector-screen.1919424/#post-21396356

    If you mount the PJ as close to the back wall as possible, then you could put the socket on the wall and not the ceiling as well as your HDMI cable (try separating these as best as possible to avoid interfence, possibly run them either side of a stud) this would save you alot of heartache.

    I personally would avoid trunking as it looks terrible IMO, I would also run a second wire to the PJ for use as a chase wire in case you need to run additional/replacement cables.

    Yeah could run HDMI over ceiling and the power in the wall this would keep them well seperated. Thanks for the advise and feedback. Was looking at it again. The speaker cable is white and not too thick so I think I would be able to get away with running it on top of skirting. Doest look bad at all. Have to figure out how to get the cable 1m up the wall to each speaker. My preference would be to go behind the wall for this bit to the back of the speaker. Hate seeing wire going up a wall! I'd imagine it's easier Running wire up wall than across as long as you don't come across fire baton.


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  • #22
    SachaJ
    Registered Users Posts: 1,734 ✭✭✭SachaJ


    No sure how far you've gotten with this but thought I'd pipe in on the trunking question again. I'm installing some trunking today in my setup and spent the extra and went for the D-Line (8mm x 16mm) brand from Homebase (B&Q have it too). I have to say it looks so much better than the square trunkin. Once I have it painted to match the wall colour I don't think it'll be noticeable. Part of it is run along the top of the skirting board and it actually looks like part of it.


  • #23
    BobbyT28
    Registered Users Posts: 1,435 ✭✭✭BobbyT28


    Finally some progress!

    Here are some pics. Not the best pics in the world.

    Ended up being very luck with cabling. The power cable and HDMi cable I was able to cut a hole in the bottom of the wall behind couch and use fish fish cable to get wire to the top without any issues! blessed. I then had to get power cable over to plug socket, again went across without an issue!

    I used trunking on top of the skirting and I have to say it looks perfect. I was able to fit 2 speaker cables in the smallest trunking.

    Still waiting to get boiler boxed off with shelves underneath.
    I'll also have a unit oposite the screen to put my, Denon AVR-x2000, xbox one, ATV3, etc.

    Will put some more up when everything is finished.

    Quick question.

    I have L & R on back of sub and only 1 pre-out connection on the back of amp. How do I connect sub correctly to amp?

    I am using the following cable;

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00CWZ01O6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    Do I need to use a cable with a Red & White end and a single sub connection on the other end? The cable that I have will this do?

    Regards,
    BobbyT28


  • #24
    SachaJ
    Registered Users Posts: 1,734 ✭✭✭SachaJ


    Not sure it matters which one you connect the sub to but in my case going from a Yamaha 3040 to a BK XXLS400 I connected it to the "R" (the top one). Think I did the same when I had my Quad Lites sub.


  • #25
    BobbyT28
    Registered Users Posts: 1,435 ✭✭✭BobbyT28


    SachaJ wrote: »
    Not sure it matters which one you connect the sub to but in my case going from a Yamaha 3040 to a BK XXLS400 I connected it to the "R" (the top one). Think I did the same when I had my Quad Lites sub.

    Yeah not sure it does. I can still here bass. Just wanted to make sure I was getting the best from it and not damaging the sub.

    BobbbyT28


  • #26
    howyegettinon1
    Registered Users Posts: 318 ✭✭howyegettinon1


    yeah I ran into the same issue last week when I upgrade my system, I just used the top one


  • #27
    BobbyT28
    Registered Users Posts: 1,435 ✭✭✭BobbyT28


    howyegettinon1 wrote: »
    yeah I ran into the same issue last week when I upgrade my system, I just used the top one


    When you say "top one" do you mean pre-out to R on Sub ?

    BobbyT28


  • #28
    howyegettinon1
    Registered Users Posts: 318 ✭✭howyegettinon1


    im not home now to confirm but here is a picture of my sub and its wired exactly same as my one.
    http://www.minhembio.com/bilder/bild/?pic_id=345877.jpg

    I don't think it matters which one you use, from memory the reson why there is a left and right on a sub is to wire the sub from your 2 channel or stereo amp through the speakers, dont qoute me on this but I remember seaching this when I came across the L&R inputs on the sub, maybe someone else can give a more accurate answer.


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