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Sorry ! Pics re last post

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  • 25-02-2015 1:18pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 2,880 ✭✭✭


    Here are pics main pipe coming to tank is from stove plumber says he has taken link from here to rads and return below nearer floor Thks


    Please see related post ,,,I just couldn't manage to get pics on in original post sorry about that ..it's a description of job requested/ and work carried out.


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 2,880 ✭✭✭2012paddy2012


    re pics : not best angle ! pic no 2 ....the pipe at top of pic is the pipe coming from stove , plumber says , the link from it is the feed to the new rads on either side of wall and below is the return feed from both new rads , plumber thinks it just the hot water "running back out of tank" that is causing the rads to heat.?! That main pipe that he says is the stove feed from stove in kitchen gets hot when no stove is lit and the central heating/HW is on. I am just trying to follow what's going on myself and in particular how to remedy it.
    any advice appreciated


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,492 ✭✭✭roy rodgers


    Can't understand why lads are not putting dual coil cylinder in when fitting stoves.

    It looks a mess you can't just tap into the first two pipes that you see with any second heat source.

    If it was my house I'd be getting a dual coil cylinder, proper pipe size and a proper plumber.


  • Registered Users Posts: 12,726 ✭✭✭✭Dtp1979


    re pics : not best angle ! pic no 2 ....the pipe at top of pic is the pipe coming from stove , plumber says , the link from it is the feed to the new rads on either side of wall and below is the return feed from both new rads , plumber thinks it just the hot water "running back out of tank" that is causing the rads to heat.?! That main pipe that he says is the stove feed from stove in kitchen gets hot when no stove is lit and the central heating/HW is on. I am just trying to follow what's going on myself and in particular how to remedy it.
    any advice appreciated
    That is piped arseways if. If you have 2 heat sources then you need 2 coils


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,492 ✭✭✭roy rodgers


    Sorry only read your other post now.
    Seems to be reverse circulation going on. It's hard to make a call with pictures but the rads that you want to heat from the stove should be taken off the manifold and plumbed on a way that when the hot water is on its not flowing through them. A non return valve might be needed.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,880 ✭✭✭2012paddy2012


    Many Thks guys - the cylinder was in fact changed when I got a new boiler I think it's a three coil , it was changed / one for immersion one for heating boiler one for solid fuel.

    Can I just ask:
    If you see the pic of the towel rad. The pipes there are coming directly from stove boiler to towel rail then to hot water tank. This towel rail never got hot ONLY when stove is on. Common sense told me that there must be two pipes obviously coming into the hot water tank , via the towel rail .I wanted a connection to be made to those two pipes only , so that , there would be no crossover between central heating and stove heat for want of a better description. It's most unsatisfactory having these rads warming every time tank gets hot from/ hot water and or central heating being on.
    Was this a very difficult plumbing operation to do as I wished? Not being smart I just am using common sense to work it out. Plumber is coming in morn to change double to single rads anyway.... I was anxious to try come up with suggestions for him , as he seems to be a bit stumped as to how to get round "hot water just flowing back into rads from water tank when hot" hoping for a quick and simple solution / suggestion
    THKS paddy


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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,880 ✭✭✭2012paddy2012


    Dtp1979 wrote: »
    That is piped arseways if. If you have 2 heat sources then you need 2 coils

    Ok thanks I didn't actually mention. The hot water tank had been changed when I got a new boiler a few years back ..I think it may be a three coil. One for central heat/ stove/ immersion ps subject to correction tho.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,880 ✭✭✭2012paddy2012


    Thks a mill for this , this sounds to be to be the fix. Is that a major job to put on a "non return valve " .? I have paid 300 euro for this job.....its a lot of money anyway for a very little return , heat wise , I was prepared for that outlay , keep the young lad warm when stove on somewhat. Lol...save a few bob.

    It's turned into a bit of a night mare to be honest ...if I could turn back time I wouldnt have bothered. I went rgi as I wanted to be sure system safe etc ����

    Re Roy Rogers


  • Registered Users Posts: 12,726 ✭✭✭✭Dtp1979


    Thks a mill for this , this sounds to be to be the fix. Is that a major job to put on a "non return valve " .? I have paid 300 euro for this job.....its a lot of money anyway for a very little return , heat wise , I was prepared for that outlay , keep the young lad warm when stove on somewhat. Lol...save a few bob.

    It's turned into a bit of a night mare to be honest ...if I could turn back time I wouldnt have bothered. I went rgi as I wanted to be sure system safe etc ����

    Re Roy Rogers

    Rgi has nothing to do with plumbing unfortunately


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,880 ✭✭✭2012paddy2012


    Thks Dtp. I did as I would be weary of letting anyone near it not gas accredited.
    Each day is a school day. As I'm writing I recall one of the solutions he mentioned was perhaps lowering down nearer to the floor where he broke into the bigger pipe that feeds tank from stove in the hope it might stop the hot water flowing back out of tank, there by stopping new rads warming up. Would you think that is a solution ? Ps would that affect the output of the heat then to These new rads when stove is on?


  • Registered Users Posts: 12,726 ✭✭✭✭Dtp1979


    Thks Dtp. I did as I would be weary of letting anyone near it not gas accredited.
    Each day is a school day. As I'm writing I recall one of the solutions he mentioned was perhaps lowering down nearer to the floor where he broke into the bigger pipe that feeds tank from stove in the hope it might stop the hot water flowing back out of tank. Would you think that is a solution ?

    Honestly it seems like a mess now. Get somebody in that knows what they're at is your best bet


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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,880 ✭✭✭2012paddy2012


    Dtp1979 wrote: »
    Honestly it seems like a mess now. Get somebody in that knows what they're at is your best bet

    Ah sound good money after bad tho! I will have to have good chat with him in morning cheers I was just hoping to have a few ideas to suggest lol try to get him to do something to sort it .... Hoping to avoid small claims court etc


  • Registered Users Posts: 32 Buck Turgidson


    OP I am probably too late for the party, but for what its worth..

    Are you sure that the stove is connected to a coil, and not directly into side of the hot water cylinder? Because hot water can not flow out of the cylinder/tank into the rads if there is a coil?

    And changing the Rads for smaller / single units wont give you any more heat, as you problem is you are not getting enough heat to the rads at the moment.

    Good luck with it :-)


  • Registered Users Posts: 32 Buck Turgidson


    Thks Dtp. I did as I would be weary of letting anyone near it not gas accredited.
    Each day is a school day. As I'm writing I recall one of the solutions he mentioned was perhaps lowering down nearer to the floor where he broke into the bigger pipe that feeds tank from stove in the hope it might stop the hot water flowing back out of tank, there by stopping new rads warming up. Would you think that is a solution ? Ps would that affect the output of the heat then to These new rads when stove is on?

    I think he is right that the rad connection should come off before the hot water tank/cylinder, so that you have a chance to get hotter water going to the rads. As it is now most of the hot water from the stove will go through the hot water cylinder coil, because that is the path of least resistance, ie the small pipes going to the rads are harder to pass through.

    What would people think of putting a small circulating pump on the circuit to the two rads, with a manual switch control. An ugly idea I know, but we are where we are, and at least this would give some chance of balancing the flow to both rads?


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,880 ✭✭✭2012paddy2012


    I think he is right that the rad connection should come off before the hot water tank/cylinder, so that you have a chance to get hotter water going to the rads. As it is now most of the hot water from the stove will go through the hot water cylinder coil, because that is the path of least resistance, ie the small pipes going to the rads are harder to pass through.

    What would people think of putting a small circulating pump on the circuit to the two rads, with a manual switch control. An ugly idea I know, but we are where we are, and at least this would give some chance of balancing the flow to both rads?

    Thks a mill. I really only wanted to add two small rads to the towel rad I had already I thought he was going to connect to pipe before tank in hot press onto this circuit he didn't ... 300 out of pocket already ! He tells me if I turn rads off full time and on only when stove is on ...I won't be wasting gas as when hot water when I set timer on boiler in morn comes on It will only run along pipe couple of feet to rad .. I will cover that bit of pipe with insulation - keep new rads off full time / turn on only when stove on! Not exactly what I wanted but at least getting some bit of extra heat to two rooms when stove on. Thks to all the contributors for advice. Paddy


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