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STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

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Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 3 HILC1


    Hi. Hoping someone out there has advice and experience on this! I'm hoping to insert a double sided stove between kitchen and den. Has anyone any hints, tips and experieces they would like to share- good and bad. It's a new house build so can adapt!


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 8 markit


    Great thread, Thank God!! Thought I had done my research but am now totally confused!! Was looking to replace our gas fire with an insert a Stanley cara or Riva 40, However have just been advised that our Hearth and insert will have to be replaced.Ours is in one piece and may split or crack because it has no room for expansion??? Has anyone heard of this before? Also we were impressed with the Contura i4 insert....of the three which would you recommend and is the best value?...Thanks


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    hi,
    just a quick question hopefully,

    i have an unvented 2 zone. oil fired heating system.

    i am considering getting a boiler stove installed, i am looking to find out how big of a job it would be.
    a plumber has told me it is possible with a heat exchanger, but i would just like a second opinion, or any view from experience.

    thanks in advance for any help

    Hi it is a complex job and one that must be totally safe.

    There are options.

    Install a thermal store!! This is like a hot water cylinder but bigger and super insulated and can accept many heat sources.The oil boiler would pipe to the stores indirect coil and the solid fuel stove would too.

    Some stoves like the aquatherm range can be fitted on pressurised systems. http://www.stovesonline.co.uk/wood_burning_stoves/Aquatherm-Eco-F21-insert-boiler-stove.html
    They have a cooling coil which runs cold water through the boiler should it overheat.
    Another maker.
    http://www.broseleyfires.com/Technology.html

    The easiest option is to convert your sealed system to open vented and then link in the normal way.

    I would phone all the plumbers in the area and ask them what would be best and safest.:)

    Stove Fan:)


  • Registered Users Posts: 274 ✭✭creaghadoos


    Stove Fan wrote: »
    Hi it is a complex job and one that must be totally safe.

    There are options.

    Install a thermal store!! This is like a hot water cylinder but bigger and super insulated and can accept many heat sources.The oil boiler would pipe to the stores indirect coil and the solid fuel stove would too.

    Some stoves like the aquatherm range can be fitted on pressurised systems. http://www.stovesonline.co.uk/wood_burning_stoves/Aquatherm-Eco-F21-insert-boiler-stove.html
    They have a cooling coil which runs cold water through the boiler should it overheat.
    Another maker.
    http://www.broseleyfires.com/Technology.html

    The easiest option is to convert your sealed system to open vented and then link in the normal way.

    I would phone all the plumbers in the area and ask them what would be best and safest.:)

    Stove Fan:)

    thanks for the advice.

    the plumber who plumbed my house would be 100% safe but is ill and unable to work.
    a local stove supplier recomended the stanley erin as he said it can link straight in to an unvented system, my limited knowledge doesnt like this idea at all.

    would switching to open vented make the heat slower to circulate.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    HILC1 wrote: »
    Hi. Hoping someone out there has advice and experience on this! I'm hoping to insert a double sided stove between kitchen and den. Has anyone any hints, tips and experieces they would like to share- good and bad. It's a new house build so can adapt!

    It really depends on the look your after either modern or traditional. If modern then the double sided insert may appeal more or a modern looking freestanding stove in a large fireplace.
    Personally if it was me I would just build a large double sided chimneybreast and fit a double sided stove.
    Like.
    http://www.woodwarmstoves.co.uk/products/double-sided-range/theversatilityofthefireviewdoublesidedrange.ashx

    Hunter Herald
    http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.stovesonline.co.uk/STOVE/IMG/hunter-double-sided-stove.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.stovesonline.co.uk/wood_burning_stoves/hunter-double-sided-stoves.html&h=722&w=500&sz=63&tbnid=fWfczoBbMCkQ2M:&tbnh=91&tbnw=63&zoom=1&docid=KdcmiStloFOFaM&hl=en&sa=X&ei=x3IDT4f3HIXKhAeu9_2tAQ&sqi=2&ved=0CHMQ9QEwBw

    Stovax Stockton.
    http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.stovesareus.co.uk/catalog/images/Stovax_Stockton_11_Double_Sided_Woodburning_Multifuel_Stove.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.stovesareus.co.uk/catalog/-c-21_37.html&h=330&w=330&sz=27&tbnid=6C49rtVysIaxdM:&tbnh=98&tbnw=98&zoom=1&docid=sIZ7Dfy56UnfeM&hl=en&sa=X&ei=x3IDT4f3HIXKhAeu9_2tAQ&sqi=2&ved=0CGcQ9QEwBA&dur=1288

    There are other makes.
    Stove Fan:)


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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    thanks for the advice.

    the plumber who plumbed my house would be 100% safe but is ill and unable to work.
    a local stove supplier recomended the stanley erin as he said it can link straight in to an unvented system, my limited knowledge doesnt like this idea at all.

    would switching to open vented make the heat slower to circulate.

    No, It would be exactly the same:)

    You could always wait if not in a rush, better to have a safe system:)

    Dont know anything about linking a stanley erin, a supplier will say anything to sell a stove. Did he say how?

    Stove Fan


  • Registered Users Posts: 274 ✭✭creaghadoos


    thanks for the advice stovefan.
    really appreciate that there is someone to answer all these wee stupid questions


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    markit wrote: »
    Great thread, Thank God!! Thought I had done my research but am now totally confused!! Was looking to replace our gas fire with an insert a Stanley cara or Riva 40, However have just been advised that our Hearth and insert will have to be replaced.Ours is in one piece and may split or crack because it has no room for expansion??? Has anyone heard of this before? Also we were impressed with the Contura i4 insert....of the three which would you recommend and is the best value?...Thanks

    Hi, yes your marble could crack, but myself I would doubt it as the insert produces more radiant/ convected heat and so the fire isnt directing much heat to the marble.

    Couldnt your existing hearth not be taken out and cut into two?

    The stovax riva gets good reviews but if you go for a woodwarm 3.5kw enigma or fireview 4kw or 6.5kw insert, then go for that.

    http://www.woodwarmstoves.co.uk/products/fireview-range/65kwinsetfireview.ashx



    Stove Fan:)


  • Registered Users Posts: 52 ✭✭torres3011


    Stove Fan wrote: »
    Hi:) Glad that your getting one fitted, it's nice to know what you decided in the end:)

    The Aarrow stratford range are well known and are generally a good stove. The EB range has replaced the smaller stratfords and is very new and hasn't been out long but it should be a reliable brand.

    The main things which I'm sure the plumber is aware of is to slightly angle the flow pipes up and use all 4 boiler outlets if possible. Make sure the pipes are crossflowed. Ie don't just use each side tappings, use the tapping diagonally opposite each other. The pipework to cylinder should be 1 inch and have a gravity rad off this pipework in the event of a powercut.

    The fire once it's inset and plumbed and filled with water I would backfill with the damp vermiculite/sand/cement mix, filling all voids at the sides and back and as much as the top as possible. If not using a liner then angle the vermiculite mix and flaunch it upwards from the fire flue exit with lime so that any soot can fall into the fire. If using a liner then backfill the flue liner with vermiculite.

    Let us know what you think of it when its been working a few days:D

    Stove Fan:)

    Thanks again Stovefan will do,

    I'm hoping the plumber knows what he's at but i will mention this to him either way.

    We got a metal Sprigot I think they are called with the stove but it does not seem to be on the list of contents in the manual.

    The flue opening on top of the stove is 5" and the sprigot is the same, in other words it doesnt slip into nor over the hole in the stove. Should this be the case?

    Cheers for the info once again, much appreciated.


  • Registered Users Posts: 11 THart


    Hi, I'm looking to install a free-standing multi-fuel stove on the hearth of an existing fireplace. There is a wooden beam over the fireplace acting as a mantle. My question is in relation to the required clearance to combustibles. I'm looking at getting a Mulberry Beckett stove and the Mulberry website gives required clearance to combustibles from the back, sides, corners of stove etc, but strangely not from the top of the stove! This particular stove stands about 31 inches tall and the beam is about a further 6inches above this.

    Do you think this is sufficient clearance or would I have to line the underside of the beam with some kind of protection, (metal plate or similar), or does the beam have to go?


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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    torres3011 wrote: »
    Thanks again Stovefan will do,

    I'm hoping the plumber knows what he's at but i will mention this to him either way.

    We got a metal Sprigot I think they are called with the stove but it does not seem to be on the list of contents in the manual.

    The flue opening on top of the stove is 5" and the sprigot is the same, in other words it doesnt slip into nor over the hole in the stove. Should this be the case?

    Cheers for the info once again, much appreciated.

    Not sure, sorry:confused: Any chance of a photo?

    Stove Fan:)


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    THart wrote: »
    Hi, I'm looking to install a free-standing multi-fuel stove on the hearth of an existing fireplace. There is a wooden beam over the fireplace acting as a mantle. My question is in relation to the required clearance to combustibles. I'm looking at getting a Mulberry Beckett stove and the Mulberry website gives required clearance to combustibles from the back, sides, corners of stove etc, but strangely not from the top of the stove! This particular stove stands about 31 inches tall and the beam is about a further 6inches above this.

    Do you think this is sufficient clearance or would I have to line the underside of the beam with some kind of protection, (metal plate or similar), or does the beam have to go?

    Hi:) Six inches is way too near to the stove:( My advice would be to remove it:)

    Stove Fan:)


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,477 ✭✭✭Hootanany


    Hi
    My rope seal on my stove needs to be replaced twice a year is this normal.
    Many thanks in advance


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    Hootanany wrote: »
    Hi
    My rope seal on my stove needs to be replaced twice a year is this normal.
    Many thanks in advance

    No, generally every 2-3 years. Chemical glass cleaners can severely damage the seals.

    Stove Fan:)


  • Registered Users Posts: 52 ✭✭torres3011


    Stove Fan wrote: »
    Not sure, sorry:confused: Any chance of a photo?

    Stove Fan:)



    I'd confuse a saint...:D

    No worries, all sorted. Seems it allows you to come out the back of the stove if needs be.

    He is planning on using 3/4" pipes though. Is that a big deal?

    Thanks

    Torres3011


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    torres3011 wrote: »
    I'd confuse a saint...:D

    No worries, all sorted. Seems it allows you to come out the back of the stove if needs be.

    He is planning on using 3/4" pipes though. Is that a big deal?

    Thanks

    Torres3011

    Hi:)No problem:D

    If he is linking the boiler stove to the hot water cylinder he should use 1inch pipes. This is standard and is always specified in the stove manufacturers instructions. 3/4 is ok to the radiators.

    Stove Fan:)


  • Registered Users Posts: 56 ✭✭guinness queen


    Happy New Year to you all especially 'stove fan'
    Still have not purchase stove, as I am still waiting for 'an expert' to get back to me, obviously not one of the people looking for work. But the more I think about it the more I think I should get a boiler stove, even though I would have to re do my system. I have a pressurised system presently which was installed with my oil fired Rayburn. I had a header tank with burner boiler. Will let you know when it is all sorted out.


  • Registered Users Posts: 52 ✭✭torres3011


    Stove Fan wrote: »
    Hi:)No problem:D

    If he is linking the boiler stove to the hot water cylinder he should use 1inch pipes. This is standard and is always specified in the stove manufacturers instructions. 3/4 is ok to the radiators.

    Stove Fan:)

    Thanks again... Will drop back in to let you know how we go once she's up and running..

    Cheers

    Torres


  • Registered Users Posts: 7 tazmania


    Hi Stove Fan
    Sorry for butting in but I wonder if you could advise me on size of boiler stove I would need.
    Our house is a twenty year old 4 bedroom detached bungalow/cavity wall with 50/60mm insulation, good attic insulation and double glaze PVC windows with oil heating. I have air vents on corners of all bedroom ceilings and one in bathroom. (don't know if this makes any difference)
    I have 8 rads in house and 2 in garage/games room which is constantly used.
    Rough size of rads are
    2 single - 1270 x 510mm
    1 single - 1520 x 510
    1 single - 1200 x 510
    1 single - 1300 x 510
    1 single - 800 x 510
    1 double -1000 x 510
    1 double -1900 x 510 This is in kitchen/living room where stove will be going which also has an extractor fan over gas hob.

    Garage/games room
    1 Double - 1200 x 500
    1 Double - 500 x 500
    Ideally I would like a stove with high output to room as well as rads as we have bad draught coming up long corridor into living room and I rarely find room too warm with large coal fire and oil heating on. (everyone else does :D)

    Thanks in advance for reading this post, hope it makes sense.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 8 markit


    Hi Stove Fan, thks for your help.......


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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    tazmania wrote: »
    Hi Stove Fan
    Sorry for butting in but I wonder if you could advise me on size of boiler stove I would need.
    Our house is a twenty year old 4 bedroom detached bungalow/cavity wall with 50/60mm insulation, good attic insulation and double glaze PVC windows with oil heating. I have air vents on corners of all bedroom ceilings and one in bathroom. (don't know if this makes any difference)
    I have 8 rads in house and 2 in garage/games room which is constantly used.
    Rough size of rads are
    2 single - 1270 x 510mm
    1 single - 1520 x 510
    1 single - 1200 x 510
    1 single - 1300 x 510
    1 single - 800 x 510
    1 double -1000 x 510
    1 double -1900 x 510 This is in kitchen/living room where stove will be going which also has an extractor fan over gas hob.

    Garage/games room
    1 Double - 1200 x 500
    1 Double - 500 x 500
    Ideally I would like a stove with high output to room as well as rads as we have bad draught coming up long corridor into living room and I rarely find room too warm with large coal fire and oil heating on. (everyone else does :D)

    Thanks in advance for reading this post, hope it makes sense.

    Hi:) The vents in the bedrooms would add to the heat loss but it is good to have some ventilation.
    Based on your 10 radiator sizes and hot water demand your looking for an 17kw back boiler stove. This is a candidate but produces 9kw of heat to the room, probably about double what the 3kw rad does plus also the coal fire going as well, so may be too warm:eek:
    Here it is http://www.stratfordboilerstoves.co.uk/models/freestanding-stoves/eb18-he.html
    I would of thought 6kw would be plenty room output!!

    I would really consider the Aarrow stratford TF70B as it has 17.5kw to water and only 3.5kw to room, with a thermostatic valve on the big rad on a lower setting and with the stove the room would be plenty warm enough.

    http://www.stratfordboilerstoves.co.uk/other-information/stratford-tf-and-ti-models.html
    I prefer the features of the EB18 but think it could be too hot in your room.

    Stove Fan:)


  • Registered Users Posts: 7 tazmania


    Hi Stove Fan
    Thanks very much for your help. I was looking up the stove you recommended and found this

    The Aarrow Stratford TF70B is due to be discontinued this summer and will be replaced by the Aarrow Ecoboiler EB18 HE on this website http://www.woodburnerwarehouse.co.uk/boiler_stoves/aarrow_stoves/aarrow_ecoboiler_eb18_he_boiler_Stove.phtml
    Maybe this only applies to that company.
    I prefer the dimensions of the EB18 HE stove if I could get away with output. Do you think if I turned off the rad completely in room with stove I would get away with that output (without everyone in house passing out with heat, bar me :o). It looks great and size is definately a plus as I wouldn't lose much floor space. Would this higher output be a very expensive stove to run, I mainly burn coal. (would a 17.5 output stove be cheaper to run)
    Is there any problem with having the extractor fan in the room, would I need to put vent in this room also, ( I usually just open window when fan is on if it pulls smoke from open fire)
    Many thanks
    Tazmania:o


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    tazmania wrote: »
    Hi Stove Fan
    Thanks very much for your help. I was looking up the stove you recommended and found this

    The Aarrow Stratford TF70B is due to be discontinued this summer and will be replaced by the Aarrow Ecoboiler EB18 HE on this website http://www.woodburnerwarehouse.co.uk/boiler_stoves/aarrow_stoves/aarrow_ecoboiler_eb18_he_boiler_Stove.phtml
    Maybe this only applies to that company.
    I prefer the dimensions of the EB18 HE stove if I could get away with output. Do you think if I turned off the rad completely in room with stove I would get away with that output (without everyone in house passing out with heat, bar me :o). It looks great and size is definately a plus as I wouldn't lose much floor space. Would this higher output be a very expensive stove to run, I mainly burn coal. (would a 17.5 output stove be cheaper to run)
    Is there any problem with having the extractor fan in the room, would I need to put vent in this room also, ( I usually just open window when fan is on if it pulls smoke from open fire)
    Many thanks
    Tazmania:o

    Hi:) It really depends on your room size and how hot you like it? Insulation levels etc? You probably have around 5kw of heat with the rad and fire on. I think arrow are discontinuing the TF70 and I do think the EB18 is a better stove. I have no idea how much fuel you would use it really depends on usage. We run 5 rads and hot water in a 105sqm detatched bungalow and used 35, 40kg bags of polish coal last winter. Lit for 13 hours most days over 7 months. Smokeless coal may be better as it lasts longer but a bit more expensive.

    The room the stove is in would need a permanent air vent of 550sq mm per every 1kw over 5kw plus extra air to prevent the extractor fan from spilling fumes/smoke from the fire. I would email the stove manufacturers and see what the regulations are here, as most manufacturers state must not be fitted in a room with extractor. In the UK the installer would calculate the air required to stop the fire spilling fumes by opening the window until it stops spilling smoke and then measure the opening and then fit a vent that size plus the 550sqmm per kw over 5kw.

    Stove Fan:)


  • Registered Users Posts: 120 ✭✭theduke1


    hi stove fan,
    i need some info please . i have a sunroon in my house with under floor heating but want to install a boiler stove in there as it is a fairly cold room my problems are
    (1) can i combine the under floor downstairs and rads upstairs into this stove as we already are on oil ,room is 5x4 normal ceiling what kw is needed
    (2) what height does the flue have to be as the roof is fairly low
    (3) would it be advisable to put a rad in that room to help heat it off the oil when stove is not lit
    cheers


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    theduke1 wrote: »
    hi stove fan,
    i need some info please . i have a sunroon in my house with under floor heating but want to install a boiler stove in there as it is a fairly cold room my problems are
    (1) can i combine the under floor downstairs and rads upstairs into this stove as we already are on oil ,room is 5x4 normal ceiling what kw is needed
    (2) what height does the flue have to be as the roof is fairly low
    (3) would it be advisable to put a rad in that room to help heat it off the oil when stove is not lit
    cheers

    Hi, Unfortunately the stove can't heat the underfloor heating direct as the water would be too hot for the underfloor circuit , you would need to plumb in a thermal store or possibly may be able to control the water temperature to the underfloor in some way?:confused: I would really have to see a picture of the location of the proposed flue to the rest of the house/roof. It would need to be 600mm above the extension roof or higher depending if the flue is near the main house. For your sized room 3-4kw would be plenty. Adding a radiator would be a good idea depending on the pipework route difficulty.

    Stove Fan:)


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,272 ✭✭✭Deedsie


    Hi,

    I hope someone could advise me on the following! I am going to have to reinstall an incorrectly installed Morso Squirrel stove. I want to get the wall extended out so that stove could sit into it?

    Would anyone have any idea how much this would cost?


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    Deedsie wrote: »
    Hi,

    I hope someone could advise me on the following! I am going to have to reinstall an incorrectly installed Morso Squirrel stove. I want to get the wall extended out so that stove could sit into it?

    Would anyone have any idea how much this would cost?


    Hi:) Any chance of a photo? It would greatly help to see whats involved. Morso squirrel is a great stove:D

    Stove Fan:)


  • Registered Users Posts: 89 ✭✭doniepony


    Hey all-

    Just starting to lay blocks on a new build and the builder has asked me about chimney breast in my sitting room. The room is about 15.5 ft x 15.5 ft with 8.5 ft ceiling. I am going to sit a stove in a chamber with a marble fireplace surround. I was hoping to go for a 6ft chimney breast (72'') but I went to a reputable stove place yesterday and the guy in the shop recommended something smaller (64'' breast). Any advice appreciated-do not want to over size either-I realise standard fireplace surround is 54'' but was hoping to go for something a little bigger.

    He also recommended a 4-5 kw stove-I was looking more along the lines of a 6-8 KW. Again I do not want to overheat the place either. The guy said that a Franco Belge Savoy MK2 stove would be perfect. Has any one had any experience with these stoves-it will be non boiler (underfloor heating in house).

    I also am hoping to put a small insert stove (something around 4-5 KW) in my sunroom which is similar size to sitting room but will be lit less. Any recommendations-someone recommended the Pevex Serenity 40 (4.5 KW)-looks very efficient.

    Any advice or recommendation welcome

    Thanks in advance


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,272 ✭✭✭Deedsie


    Stove Fan wrote: »
    Hi:) Any chance of a photo? It would greatly help to see whats involved. Morso squirrel is a great stove:D

    Stove Fan:)

    Hi SF,

    I tried to attach photos there. Im not sure if you can see but the chimney goes out at a 90 angle straight through the wall and out to the chimney outside. I know its installed dreadfully.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 5,272 ✭✭✭Deedsie


    This is just two more pics from outside Stove Fan. I want to build out the wall and raise the chimney if at all possible. Sorry the pics are a bit crap.


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