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07-08-2012, 19:28   #16
njburke
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@Termonator. Thanks, that looks a splendid job, I'll attempt the same.
Did you have any sort of a written or online guide on restoring it ? Is that also a bourne plastics hull?



Progress to date.
I showed the sails and pics of the boat to my neighbour (he's a marine inspector and avid sailor).
I have the three sails I'll need and they're in good serviceable condition, he told me to put the spinnaker away for a while. He also showed me how to roll them correctly for the sail bags.
His advice was not to redeck but to make good the fibreglass deck and get out on the water as soon as possible, I'm not the type to seek advice and then go against it. At this point the plan is 'Termonator II'. In return I gave him a hand with his Mirror dinghy.

Missing bits; the seller was to have collected the mast and had a scour round for the tiller and rudder this morning, I'll chase him tomorrow to see if he's located both.

My brother will want his trailer back later this week so I'll need to move the boat over to my place.
My neighbour says it looks like most of the boat fittings are there, including the cleats but not the kicker.

I also have to make a workspace for it in the garage, which is a weekends work given the current state of the garage.


Niall
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08-08-2012, 10:44   #17
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Not sure if it is Bourne plastics hull but same deck design as yours so assume it is. Boat is 1977.
I didn't use any hard and fast guide, it was more a case of first of all cleaning it very well, inside and out and then quite a bit of sanding to get as smooth a finish as possible. Also used strippers to get take the deck right back.

One decision you will have to make is whether you want to keep the original gelcoat and bring it back to life or paint it. I went with painting in the end using the roll and tip method and it gives an excellent finish.

I used international paint, one layer undercoat and one gloss. 2 pack will probably give an even better finish.

For all the wooden parts I stripped them right back to the bare wood and again plenty of sanding etc followed by nine coats of yacht varnish. Some advise using epoxy as a first coat sealer.

Actually surprising the amount of work involved in a small boat once you get started as you will want it to be a perfect finish.

I would also agree with getting the sagging deck sorted right away and if you manage to get all the bits and pieces you are missing to get straight out on the water and enjoying it before doing it as a winter project.
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09-08-2012, 00:26   #18
njburke
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Termonator, thanks for the reply. The plate on mine is 75 then the hull number, I'm guessing thats 1975.

My hull looks good, theres a minor repair maybe 5 square inches on it. I don't think I'll be doing much with the hull.

Timber work on the seats etc, they'll have to come out as I imagine they rot from the underside. I don't know about the nine coats of yacht varnish, the timber would want to be in very good nick to warrant that.

On finish, I read somewhere that you can grade finish by how close you get to boat before it stops looking good, ie a 10 ft finish, 20 ft finish.
My cedar strip canoe has a very good finish, be hard to match.

I'll probably just plug away at it,as best I can, time and funds allowing.

NJ
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09-08-2012, 12:48   #19
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What part of the country are you based with your new boat? There's a few sailing clubs which race GP14s and if you were to join one I know that you will get a lot of help and encouragement from fellow sailors there. It's also a handy way of picking up bits and pieces you need. Keen racers will replace their gear every few years and will often sell, or even give their old stuff away. That includes sails etc.

Don't discount racing it. There's no quicker (and safer) way to learn about sailing than to try a bit of racing and you'll get lots of advice in the bar afterwards! Don't worry about not knowing too much about the rules. If you're a beginner you are probably going to get left behind after the start and unlikely to get in anyone's way.

Some clubs offer a special rate for new members so it's worth while shopping around. My own club (Skerries SC) does a half price rate for the first year.

Like everyone else I'd say don't bother replacing the deck and I wouldn't be hung up on the floors either. An older dinghy will rarely repay the effort (and expense!) of a complete refurbishment. Just tart it up, make it safe and enjoy it as much as you can.
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09-08-2012, 12:52   #20
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And don't get hung up on the timber work - unless it is structural and visibly rotting. I'm sure the seats are fine too. Poke and probe and if there's no softening due to rot you are OK.

There is a technique for straightening masts involving a spare wheel from a car. Post a photo when you get the mast and I'll tell you if it's worthwhile.
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10-08-2012, 21:40   #21
njburke
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Hi Talent,
Thanks for the tips.
When I get list of what I need I'll put up a wanted ad on a few of the sites.
I haven't got hold of the mast yet, and the seller is off on holidays.
I've to bring it over to my place over the weekend and see whats what.

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