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27-03-2010, 10:05   #16
vectra
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Originally Posted by Slidey View Post
Do you mean to remove the piston or to take the pads out?

If it is the latter I'm afraid I would be wary of you doing the job. It is a simple but very important part of the car and needs to be right.
No,
Just to remove the pads and check the sliding of the caliper and movement of the piston?
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27-03-2010, 19:45   #17
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Well if you feel confident enough to do it, fire ahead.

Unfortunately I haven't worked on a civic in years so don't know the layout of the calipers. Hopefully someone who does know may be along shortly.
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27-03-2010, 20:31   #18
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Originally Posted by Slidey View Post
Well if you feel confident enough to do it, fire ahead.

Unfortunately I haven't worked on a civic in years so don't know the layout of the calipers. Hopefully someone who does know may be along shortly.
Likewise
I never had a problem doing the brakes on old Cortinas and Escorts and the likes in that era.. Civics are new Fangled Gadgets as far as I am concerned
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31-03-2010, 14:25   #19
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stripped them off.. Cleaned them.. Greased them with a bit of Copper grease.. Re-test today PASS
cheers guys
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31-03-2010, 14:34   #20
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just a single bot caliper, nice and handy job to do on the civic, glad ya got it sorted.
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31-03-2010, 16:27   #21
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Originally Posted by Masada View Post
just a single bot caliper, nice and handy job to do on the civic, glad ya got it sorted.
Yeah
37% imbalance when it failed
30% max allowed
18% after the clean/grease
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01-04-2010, 00:29   #22
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Any crazy imbalance I get on calipers, ie discs, I strip both sides and re-build them. The logic being if one is dodgy, the other isn't far behind.

Cheers.
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01-04-2010, 01:01   #23
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Originally Posted by Fishtits View Post
Any crazy imbalance I get on calipers, ie discs, I strip both sides and re-build them. The logic being if one is dodgy, the other isn't far behind.

Cheers.
I did both just to be sure
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05-04-2010, 13:37   #24
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a handy tip for freeing up sticking caliper pistons is to remove the caliper (keeping fluid lines attached of course) and using a G clamp (type used for clamping timber) push back the piston slowly to it's home position. It will feel stiff probably. Then wind out the G clamp about 5-10mm and have someone depress the brake pedal slowly and make sure they don't push the pedal more than half way to the floor (to prevent reversing the master cylinder seals). The caliper piston will push out to meet the loosened off G clamp. Now turn out the G-clamp another 5mm and depress the brake pedal again. Do not press out the calpier piston any further, it is near its furthest point of travel.
Using the G-clamp push the piston back in slowly to the home position. It should start to free up hopefully. Repeat the process again and it should start to take less effort the push the piston home.
If the piston movement does not improve then your caliper needs a new piston and O-ring, replacing these must be done with surgical room cleanliness and with competency. Soak the O-rings(seals) overnight in brake fluid in a sealed container before attempting to fit. I've replaced caliper piston seals before and you must operate like a neuro surgeon to do it right. Remember... make an arse of it(replacing seals) and you may suffer brake failure.
Hope this info helps.
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