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06-04-2007, 13:53   #1
tred
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Sanding and Varnishing Solid Oak floor

Hi All,
Need some advice. I have an Oak floor down for last 6 years., Its showing some wear in the dining area, a little white coming through. My next project is to re varnish it. Should I rent out a Buffer or an actual Sander?. how do you make the call?.I would say i just need to remove the old coat of varnish off, then re seal it and varnish it. would i be correct?
Any guide lines and tips be well appreciated.

Tred
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07-04-2007, 19:45   #2
game4it70
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hi

you need to know what finish is on the floor as lacquer and varnishes wont work ie.they can blister/leave a orange peel effect.
sanding all the way back is not an easy job.
find out what finish is on the floor so you know what product to use and the next step.
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08-04-2007, 21:35   #3
tred
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Quote:
Originally Posted by game4it70
you need to know what finish is on the floor as lacquer and varnishes wont work ie.they can blister/leave a orange peel effect.
sanding all the way back is not an easy job.
find out what finish is on the floor so you know what product to use and the next step.
FRom reasearching ill have to sand it back and then re put on a new coat. its safest and best way. it should be a big job to do with a large sander.
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08-04-2007, 21:47   #4
mad m
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You can hire a big square buffer sander from any hire shop,this will do the job. It has a velcro base and the sandpaper attaches this way also. Use a rough grade sandpaper first(P80) working your way down to the smoothest(P120-P180). Take your time,when you think you have done enough sanding,sweep up the excess dust first then hoover the rest. Dampen a cloth with some white spirits and wipe whole floor as this will degrease floor before coating it...

Let dry fully and its your choice for finishes,Dulux have a diamond coat which is water based or there are cellouse based lacquer which you have to add the hardener into it. Actually Brooksthomas do a water based lacquer also(no need for hardener). It comes in gloss/satin finish....

The Cellouse based lacquer you will have to cut in edges with a brush and roll floor with a 9inch mohair roller. You can only put on 3coats in one day and always sand inbetween coats/hoover again to remove grit.

The waterbased ones can be either brushed on or also rolled...Either way watchout for splashes(especially the cellouse based lacquer) it dries very quickly,and if you miss a blob it will remain a blob. Oh remember to wear a mask at all times and some ear protection.

Oh and remember to hoover around windows also,done a floor for a mate of mine couple years ago,left windows open to let lacquer dry but a gust of wind came and blew dust all over floor and ruined it....

Last edited by mad m; 08-04-2007 at 21:50.
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09-04-2007, 20:17   #5
tred
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mad m
You can hire a big square buffer sander from any hire shop,this will do the job. It has a velcro base and the sandpaper attaches this way also. Use a rough grade sandpaper first(P80) working your way down to the smoothest(P120-P180). Take your time,when you think you have done enough sanding,sweep up the excess dust first then hoover the rest. Dampen a cloth with some white spirits and wipe whole floor as this will degrease floor before coating it...

Let dry fully and its your choice for finishes,Dulux have a diamond coat which is water based or there are cellouse based lacquer which you have to add the hardener into it. Actually Brooksthomas do a water based lacquer also(no need for hardener). It comes in gloss/satin finish....

The Cellouse based lacquer you will have to cut in edges with a brush and roll floor with a 9inch mohair roller. You can only put on 3coats in one day and always sand inbetween coats/hoover again to remove grit.

The waterbased ones can be either brushed on or also rolled...Either way watchout for splashes(especially the cellouse based lacquer) it dries very quickly,and if you miss a blob it will remain a blob. Oh remember to wear a mask at all times and some ear protection.

Oh and remember to hoover around windows also,done a floor for a mate of mine couple years ago,left windows open to let lacquer dry but a gust of wind came and blew dust all over floor and ruined it....
cheers for all the info. exactly waht i was looking for. Is there a difference between a buffer sander and a normal sander?. does the buffer take it slower?.
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09-04-2007, 21:42   #6
mad m
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tred
cheers for all the info. exactly waht i was looking for. Is there a difference between a buffer sander and a normal sander?. does the buffer take it slower?.
The barrel sander would be a bit hard on your oak floor,you normall use these on tongue&grooved floors which can be uneven(but you can use them on any floor,but experience is needed using them). The buffer will be a bit slower but seeing as its your first time evening attempting this the buffer is the safer option. The barrel industrial sander can/will bore grooves into your floor if your not used to it.

To save your back get a wall sander and attach it to a paint roller pole,at least this way you wont be bending over sanding inbetween coats of lacquer. Oh and use the old sandpaper thats broke in from buffer sander,save you some money. They charge you for every sheet you use.
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10-04-2007, 11:33   #7
tred
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mad m
The barrel sander would be a bit hard on your oak floor,you normall use these on tongue&grooved floors which can be uneven(but you can use them on any floor,but experience is needed using them). The buffer will be a bit slower but seeing as its your first time evening attempting this the buffer is the safer option. The barrel industrial sander can/will bore grooves into your floor if your not used to it.

To save your back get a wall sander and attach it to a paint roller pole,at least this way you wont be bending over sanding inbetween coats of lacquer. Oh and use the old sandpaper thats broke in from buffer sander,save you some money. They charge you for every sheet you use.
cheers, thanks for that.
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