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Gearbox mounts - 1.9 TDI AGR

  • 05-04-2012 4:20pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 3,901 ✭✭✭


    Hello!

    On its first use each day when I reverse and apply the brake (clutch not engaging the gear) I get a noticeable knock from the front of the car.
    I just got a quote for 400 pounds to replace the gearbox mounts on my Golf. This was a worst case price as the man said both or all may need doing. Not clear on how many the car has.

    That sounds like a lot considering a local mechanic said he would do it for 50 euro plus parts (second hand or new).

    I dont have my Haynes with me, but would this be a difficult job to do myself? I got the sense there are two mounts for my engine. Can I undo one at a time or would I really need a hoist or something to support the box?

    Also, I believe this is the part. I would prefer to go through a motor factors and new (no breakers yard unless it really isnt a bad thing to do) but I was wondering would that be a reasonable price? I think I was quoted 150 pounds for VW parts by the dealer.

    Brake fluid needs doing which I wont do myself. 60 pound quote.

    The car also needs some rear bumpstops.

    If they are the part is this an easy DIY? Dealer quotes 254 pounds for parts and fitting. . . Seems big now that I type this. My mechanic contact said he would do the brake fluid and bump stops for around 100 euro (plus parts I imagine).

    He did my brakes for and the car still stops she he is good haha. He just seems very cheap, maybe I am getting mate rates and not realising.

    I am trying to cut a 972 pound service down to as small as possible.

    The car needs a full service too and I will do the oil and filter myself. I also need the transmission fluid renewed which I didnt ask for and I am not too keen on doing myself yet.

    Any thoughts?
    Sounds like a good project but I am busy and dont want to loose the car for a while over biting off something that I cant quite chew.

    Thanks all!
    bbk


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 5,728 ✭✭✭George Dalton


    Why would you bring a 12-14 year old Golf to a main dealer?


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,901 ✭✭✭GTE


    Why would you bring a 12-14 year old Golf to a main dealer?

    A free bumper to bumper check.


  • Registered Users Posts: 870 ✭✭✭spiggotpaddy


    The jobs you need doing are all fairly easy, but if your not sure, then you should use an indy.
    The gearbox mount can be changed using a trolly jack under the sump.(and a bicycle tube if your tight)
    The gearbox oil is a drain bolt and a filler bolt.
    The bump stop is a wheel off and undo three bolts.
    And the brake fluid is bleeding handy.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,901 ✭✭✭GTE


    The jobs you need doing are all fairly easy, but if your not sure, then you should use an indy.
    The gearbox mount can be changed using a trolly jack under the sump.(and a bicycle tube if your tight)
    The gearbox oil is a drain bolt and a filler bolt.
    The bump stop is a wheel off and undo three bolts.
    And the brake fluid is bleeding handy.

    Thanks for the reply.
    Would I be worth my while getting second hand mounts? I imagine this is the first change the cars needed since new? Car is 180,000 miles.
    If they are universal across the 1.9 tdi range I could find a low mileage scrapped wagon. Im guessing they are not though I should check that ebay link, has engine codes.

    Thanks again :-)


  • Registered Users Posts: 870 ✭✭✭spiggotpaddy


    I don't think the mounts are that pricey new, try your local motor factor for a price. Its more than likely only the rubber bushing thats worn and not the mount itself. You could buy the rubber bush cheaply, from a main dealer.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 3,901 ✭✭✭GTE


    I don't think the mounts are that pricey new, try your local motor factor for a price. Its more than likely only the rubber bushing thats worn and not the mount itself. You could buy the rubber bush cheaply, from a main dealer.

    Hello again,

    Thanks for that.
    Did the bump stops today, very easy once I got the hang of what I was doing.

    Turns out the gearbox mounts are fine but the shock top on passenger side is worn. Also, a rest shock is in need of replacing.

    New thread for that anyway.

    Thanks again!


  • Registered Users Posts: 870 ✭✭✭spiggotpaddy


    bbk wrote: »
    Hello again,

    Thanks for that.
    Also, a rest shock is in need of replacing.

    Yeah, a rest shock, is that like a Taoiseach?


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,901 ✭✭✭GTE


    bbk wrote: »
    Hello again,

    Thanks for that.
    Also, a rest shock is in need of replacing.

    Yeah, a rest shock, is that like a Taoiseach?

    Rear shock.
    Damn predictive. :-D


  • Registered Users Posts: 870 ✭✭✭spiggotpaddy


    bbk wrote: »

    Rear shock.
    Damn predictive. :-D

    Oh right, rear shocks well they're a lot handier to replace than my last suggestion.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,652 ✭✭✭Chimaera


    bbk wrote: »

    Rear shock.
    Damn predictive. :-D

    Oh right, rear shocks well they're a lot handier to replace than my last suggestion.

    Be sure to replace the dampers as a pair. If one's gone the other can't be far behind.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 3,901 ✭✭✭GTE


    Chimaera wrote: »
    bbk wrote: »

    Rear shock.
    Damn predictive. :-D

    Oh right, rear shocks well they're a lot handier to replace than my last suggestion.

    Be sure to replace the dampers as a pair. If one's gone the other can't be far behind.

    Thanks, I've asked about it in another thread to make the prefixes useful.

    Ill be going for both shocks at the rear anyway.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,901 ✭✭✭GTE


    The jobs you need doing are all fairly easy, but if your not sure, then you should use an indy.
    The gearbox mount can be changed using a trolly jack under the sump.(and a bicycle tube if your tight)
    The gearbox oil is a drain bolt and a filler bolt.
    The bump stop is a wheel off and undo three bolts.
    And the brake fluid is bleeding handy.

    Im hoping to DIY this sooner rather than later.

    Im confused as to what to get. Ill investigate just getting the rubber but I want to know which mounts or which.
    At first I thought there was a passenger side, drivers side and some dogbone mount somewhere in the middle but then I read about top and bottom mounts so im confused.

    I've been told the passenger side gearbox mounts worn anyway.

    Would someone be kind enough to get pics of them? I know the dogbone. The following is what I thought was the passenger side.

    http://www.sauerkrautparts.com/images/1J0199555AJ.jpg

    The car will be up on a ramp tomorrow so I can check there but im uneducated.

    Many thanks. Saved a load doing the DIY stuff.


  • Registered Users Posts: 870 ✭✭✭spiggotpaddy


    1) Support the engine with a jack and block of wood beneath the sump to just take the weight of the engine

    2) Remove battery and tray and disconnect cable to starter motor

    3) If you need more access, remove the airbox as well

    4) If you need to, unclip wiring harnesses and hoses

    5) Unscrew the two bolts holding the mount to the gearbox

    6) Unscrew the three bolts holding the mount to the body and remove the mount past any wires or hoses that are in your way


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,901 ✭✭✭GTE


    Had a good look at the car and it looks like the bushes on the rear of the front wishbones are bad so will do those first while I have access to a mechanic friend of mine to see if that gets rid of the knocking I have. 70 quid for the gearbox mount or the engine stabilizer underneath is a lot for a "maybe gets rid of knocking". At lesst these could cause it and need doing anyway.

    No one had just the rubbers from the gearbox mount though.

    Edit: never said but the shock tops didn't fix the knock, still needed doing though.

    Lots of work needed this year :-\


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